IS modes

topcatproduction

topcatproduction

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I have just recieved a 70-300 and left my camera at home so not had a play yet :cuckoo:

I know IS mode 1 is supposed to be for still subjects and mode 2 for moving- but why can't you just use mode 2 for everything? Does mode 1 include the background in the IS whereas mode 2 only includes the centre and doesn't get confused by a moving background? Or something like that?! :lol:
 
Mode 2 takes into account the panning of the lens and so does not try to compensate for that motion. Mode 1 compensates for horozontal and vertical movement but Mode 2 just compensates for vertical motion.
 
Brocks said:
Mode 2 takes into account the panning of the lens and so does not try to compensate for that motion. Mode 1 compensates for horozontal and vertical movement but Mode 2 just compensates for vertical motion.
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:agree:And don't forget to switch off if your using a tripod
 
Later models do sense if your on a tripod & auto switch off. The 100-300 does not auto switch off
 
On the same topic and same lens- I have had a very quick play with it and can hear the IS working- but not amazed at the sharp images it produced- shutter speeds were down to approx 1/4 sec hand held of course but the only pics I could take were inside and not the brightest light. Also what is it that makes indoor images come out too "warm"- almost like lit by fire light?

I guess I'll have to play during the day with natural light and compare IS and non IS pics- its a pity I sold my 75-300 the other day as it would have been interesting to have taken some like for like pics!!
 
Brocks said:
.....but Mode 2 just compensates for vertical motion.
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No it doesn't...the processor in the lens determines the axis being panned, horizontal OR vertical, and disables stabilisation control in that axis.

andyred said:
:agree:
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Well you shouldn't be doing ;)

topcatproduction said:
So if I want to pan vertically I'm screwed :lol:
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No, it'll work but you'll get neck ache :)

topcatproduction said:
Great answer thanks guys
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Great but incorrect.

Bob
 
topcatproduction said:
On the same topic and same lens- I have had a very quick play with it and can hear the IS working- but not amazed at the sharp images it produced- shutter speeds were down to approx 1/4 sec hand held of course but the only pics I could take were inside and not the brightest light. Also what is it that makes indoor images come out too "warm"- almost like lit by fire light?

I guess I'll have to play during the day with natural light and compare IS and non IS pics- its a pity I sold my 75-300 the other day as it would have been interesting to have taken some like for like pics!!
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It's the colour of the light, the 'colour temperature' and is controlled by the camera's White Balance settings.

Tungsten light (eg bulbs) is yellow/orange. Flourescent light tends to be a bit green. Your eye (or rather your brain) automatically corrects it so things 'look' right.

You have to do that manually with a camera, which is what the White Balance settings are about. See the manual.

BTW, while IS is very effective, it can't work miracles. Rule of thumb for a normal non-IS lens is that you should not hand-hold it with a shutter speed that is longer than the 'effective' focal length, that is actual focal length multiplied by the crop factor.

So if your lens is set to 200mm, plus the 1.6x crop factor, the effective focal length is 320mm, so you should avoid using a shutter speed longer than 1/320sec. Since you have IS, you should be able to beat that by up to three stops which would take you down to 1/40sec (320>160>80>40 = 3 stops). That's a very rough guide and some people can beat that, but often not reliably.

Also bear in mind that IS only reduces camera shake - it can do nothing for subject movement which will still blurr at longer shutter speeds, even when the camera is perfectly steady.
 
The other thing to bear in mind is that it takes a couple of seconds for the IS to fully spin up. If you've not touched the shutter button for a while it winds down to save battery power and if you suddenly try and grab a quick fire shot, you won't get the benefit of the IS.
 
I had another play afterwards and compared pics with the IS on and off- did make a fair bit of difference actually! I hadn't used my 75-300 since way before xmas- probably about september time and had forgotten how hard it is to hold 300mm steady!!! My hands aren't completely shake free and looking through the viewfinder at 300mm its pretty amazing that it gets a decent shot at all!

With the "indoor glow" I take it the AWB doesn't cut it, so manually set it inside I shall.
 
topcatproduction said:
I had another play afterwards and compared pics with the IS on and off- did make a fair bit of difference actually! I hadn't used my 75-300 since way before xmas- probably about september time and had forgotten how hard it is to hold 300mm steady!!! My hands aren't completely shake free and looking through the viewfinder at 300mm its pretty amazing that it gets a decent shot at all!

With the "indoor glow" I take it the AWB doesn't cut it, so manually set it inside I shall.
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Good plan ;) white Balance is notoriously poor in artificial light.

If you have live view, if you switch that on and then flick through the different white balance settings, you can see the result on the LCD immediately.
 
beats my ignorance but what is 'panning'?

Have to say that 70-300 is a stunning lens ok but its hell for me to take a decent flying bird. If its past a 100 passes, if u are not seeing the bird's eyes or if he is happily flying away as far as possible for you then chances are IS or no IS bird will still be not pin sharp or simply not sharp at all. But that could be only cause I suck
 
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