Lens Diameter

[Mentalblock]

I am looking to upgrade from my ‘Bridge’ to a full DSLR, which raises a question on lens.

As a full SLR has changeable lens, I have to start thinking about attachments such as filters and the various sizes of lens and thus the different filters I may need.

So:
- would an 18-55 lens have the same screw thread diameter for the various different manufacturers?

- do Nikon and Cannon bodies have the same diameters on their lens?

As I have some filters for my bridge, I would like to be able to use them on my SLR when I get, rather than having to spend more money on filters. In addition, I am a few months away from being able to buy the SLR, but I would like to get a square graduated filter and holder for my bridge so I can use it in the interim. It would be nice if this filter could be used on my new kit when I get it, I be tempted to spend more on it then.

I’m currently considering the Nikon D90 or the Cannon 550D.
Therefore, if anyone has any tips or things to consider I would be happy to hear them

 

[Donki]

Filter sizes are different depending on the lens, are you thinking of getting the body only then getting a better lens of going for the kit lens?

What filters are you thinking of getting?

Most people would recomend a UV filter for each of your lenes as protection. Other than that the only other screw in filters I use is a circular polorisor and my B&W 10 stop, I bought the biggest lens diameter I had (77mm) for each of these filters then use various step up rings so that the one big filter can fit any of my other lenses.

There are various filter holders for rectangular filters, they either come in 85mm or 100mm. Cokin, Hitech and Lee all do their own holders and filters for each size, obviously the 100mm are more exspensive but are usually of better qaulity and better at wide angles. I am unaware if any of these systems will fit a bridge.

 

[cowasaki]

It's probably closer to 50-50 re UV filters. I don't use them as why would I spend £1500 on a lens then affect it's quality with a cheap bit of glass. The front most piece of glass (which it is designed to have) is the cheapest piece of glass in the lens and probably costs the same as a pro filter. I do have pro filters but I would only use them in known dodgy environments such as on the beach. I just use the lens hood for protection.

I would definitely agree with Donki about getting the largest filter and using step up rings but even better would be a filter holder with filters and an adapter to each different sized filter ring.

Most kit lenses will have filter sizes around 52mm approx but could be more or less.

 

[Nod]

Filter sizes are different depending on the lens, are you thinking of getting the body only then getting a better lens of going for the kit lens?

What filters are you thinking of getting?

Most people would recomend a UV filter for each of your lenes as protection Point A. Other than that the only other screw in filters I use is a circular polorisor and my B&W 10 stop, I bought the biggest lens diameter I had (77mm) for each of these filters then use various step up rings so that the one big filter can fit any of my other lensesPoint B.

There are various filter holders for rectangular filters, they either come in 85mm or 100mm. Cokin, Hitech and Lee all do their own holders and filters for each size, obviously the 100mm are more exspensive but are usually of better qaulity and better at wide angles. I am unaware if any of these systems will fit a bridge.

On point A. In some situations, a protection filter is worth using but be aware that they can degrade image quality, although the more you spend on the filters, the less the problem.

On point B. The problem with having one large filter and loads of stepping rings is that you can't use bayonet fitting lens hoods except on the lenses that accept the big filter with no rings. Of course, several decent filters to suit a variety of lenses won't be cheap but could be worth the expense to avoid flare.

The square filter systems are possibly the best option since they can be fitted with their own lens hoods, although there can be problems with light getting between any stacked filters causing flare again.

 

[Mentalblock]

So by the sound of things; my existing 58mm screw in ND4 and C-PL may be usable on a kit lens, but may need some step rings.

Any new filters I buy would be better in the larger size.
Or, better still, get a filter holder and filters. I assume this is the more costly option!
I was once advised to get a filter holder as you can slide the graduated filter up and down to suit the scene, or at least I think this was a filter holder he was talking about!

If I get a holder and ND grad now, can I get step up rings that will attach the holder to my current bridge?

 

[cowasaki]

So by the sound of things; my existing 58mm screw in ND4 and C-PL may be usable on a kit lens, but may need some step rings.

Any new filters I buy would be better in the larger size.
Or, better still, get a filter holder and filters. I assume this is the more costly option!
I was once advised to get a filter holder as you can slide the graduated filter up and down to suit the scene, or at least I think this was a filter holder he was talking about!

If I get a holder and ND grad now, can I get step up rings that will attach the holder to my current bridge?

It is slightly more costly to begin with BUT when you then buy a 18-200 with a 72mm filter size you don't need to get anything but the adapter. Then you buy a 105mm f2.8 and have a 62mm filter size, again just an adapter. Then you buy a 50mm f1.4 and have 58mm...... see the pattern

 

[Donki]

On point A. In some situations, a protection filter is worth using but be aware that they can degrade image quality, although the more you spend on the filters, the less the problem.

On point B. The problem with having one large filter and loads of stepping rings is that you can't use bayonet fitting lens hoods except on the lenses that accept the big filter with no rings. Of course, several decent filters to suit a variety of lenses won't be cheap but could be worth the expense to avoid flare.

The square filter systems are possibly the best option since they can be fitted with their own lens hoods, although there can be problems with light getting between any stacked filters causing flare again.

Both point well made and noted, I didnt think of a lens hood cause inever use one, I mostly use my hand, which isnt the best option but it works .

 

[Nod]

Yes, a hand or French Flag can replace a hood but not such a good idea when hand holding! In my bag I keep an A4 (hinged to make it A5 size) piece of board, black on one side (to use as a shade) and white on the other (rudimentary reflector) and that often gets used as well as the hood (petal hoods on zooms are only really effective at the short end so the extra shade can help).