Lens Hood & Lens Filter?

SXI - Matt

SXI - Matt

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Matthew
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I sorry as I'm sure this gets asked a lot, but when or in what conditions will you put your lens hood on? Always outdoors in sunlight or only when really bight conditions?

Also tried to do a waterfall shot the other day when I was away, how ever with a 1 sec shutter speed it was just white. So what's the best filter or more to the point what type of filter can I use for this type of shot?
 
Question 1 - Always.

Question 2 - The longer the shutter speed the more the water will blur and eventually (as you found) just merge into a white mass. Best thing is to take a series of shots at different shutter speeds. If you want some blur to suggest water movement try around 1/8 or slower.
A filter is not especially needed for this type of shot. Make sure that your exposure is correct as overexpose would aggravate the problem you had.
 
Always use a lens hood, that is what protect the front element glass of your lens.
 
Always use a lens hood, if only for protection.

To prevent over exposure in daylight when using long shutter speeds, you need a neutral density filter. They come in various stengths, depending on how bright it is and how long a shutter speed you need.

If it's not too bright and you only need a bit of blur as with fast moving streams or fountains, you can sometimes get away without a filter by using a high f/number at lowest ISO. And a tripod.
 
Always? Do you mean the UV filter on always to protect the lens? Thought the hood would only be used for bright conditions?

I may try this then see if it helps
 
I never use a UV filter, just the hood to protect my glass. I will only put a filter on if being used by sea or mud flying around at motocross etc.
 
What density filter could be used as a all round I no this isn't as easy as the question sounds, but is there a general filter grade that gets used the most? Tried playing around a fair bit with the tripod & different settins but still couldn't get it right
 
SXI - Matt said:
What density filter could be used as a all round I no this isn't as easy as the question sounds, but is there a general filter grade that gets used the most? Tried playing around a fair bit with the tripod & different settins but still couldn't get it right
Click to expand...

There's a big difference between blurry waterfalls at 1/4sec maybe, and streaky clouds and milky seascapes needing several seconds or more.

ND8 (three stops) for the former, and up to ten stops (ND1000) for the latter.
 
Previous posters meant you should always use a hood to protect your lenses, I never knew this so I'm glad I read this thread. Sorry I can't help with filters as I have no real idea about them.

Liz
 
LizB90 said:
Previous posters meant you should always use a hood to protect your lenses, I never knew this so I'm glad I read this thread. Sorry I can't help with filters as I have no real idea about them.

Liz
Click to expand...

A hood is designed to act like a peak on cap and prevent flare and loss of contrast when the sun is just on the edge of your shot. Its primary purpose is not to protect a lens.
 
But with the hood in place, if you manage to knock your lens against something, the hood will come into contact first and not the front element glass.
 
Plus they make your kit look cool as *****! Only lens I tend not to use a hood is my canon 10-22 as i can never store the lens neatly in my bag
 
After spending over £200 on half a dozen UV filters I gave in. Everytime I shot anything I had problems with softness, so I took all the UV filters off and that cured the problem. I just keep the hood on all the time when I'm out now and only use filters in very wet or dusty areas. The only lens I don't use the hood all the time is my 100 2.8 L macro, when I shoot macro I want as much light as possible, but when I use it as a portrait lens the hoods always on.
 
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