Lenses for D700

merv

merv

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Mervyn
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Can anyone tell me if lenses for my D300, 70-200, 300f4, 70-300 etc would work on a D700:bonk::bang:
 
If they are DX lenses then they will, but you will have to adjust settings on the D700 to recognize DX lenses, but the viewfinder will show the "crop". .
 
Don't think any of your lenses are DX if made by Nikon and all will work on your FX camera.
 
The 70-200, 300f4, and 70-300 which you mentioned will all work on a D700. But of course they won't work in the same way. You'll have a wider field of view. 300mm on a D700 will feel like 200mm on a D300. If you're into shooting things which need telephoto lenses, it might be worth considering whether the D700 is really the right way to go.
 
Yes Stewart, I would tend to shoot planes, birds and things which need telephoto. What camera apart from the D300 would you then consider which is an improvement on the 300?
 
Unless you need video, you are at the top of the tree with your 300 until Nikon bring something else out.
 
merv said:
Yes Stewart, I would tend to shoot planes, birds and things which need telephoto. What camera apart from the D300 would you then consider which is an improvement on the 300?
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What is wrong with your D300 shots? Maybe you should be looking at lenses rather than a new camera. The loss of effective reach with the D700 might mean that it would effectively be a step backwards :shrug:
 
merv said:
Yes Stewart, I would tend to shoot planes, birds and things which need telephoto. What camera apart from the D300 would you then consider which is an improvement on the 300?
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What aspects, exactly, are you wanting to improve?
 
I have been dissatisfied with a lot of my D300 shots with respect sharpness. In fact have had the camera checked by Nikon UK for £70 plus VAT and they claim to have, and I quote
BODY DEPTH ADJUST
RESET MIRRORS
TEST AF ACCURACY, METERING, EXPOSURE AND ADJUST TO NIKON STANDARDS
What about all that for a good camera. Tried to speak to someone to find out why all these needed attention, if at all and to speak to the person who worked on the camera with no joy. The camera is back and quite honestly I dont feel there is any difference. Went out today with an older D40 with the same lenses, 70-200vR and 300f4 and the results are far superior, and from a much cheaper camera. I am getting p----d off with the 300 and feel it is still not right but dont know where to turn. Feel like cutting my losses and just getting rid of it. Maybe its a Friday camera!! Would go to Canon if I didnt have so many lenses. Thats what I am at!!
 
merv said:
I have been dissatisfied with a lot of my D300 shots with respect sharpness. In fact have had the camera checked by Nikon UK for £70 plus VAT and they claim to have, and I quote
BODY DEPTH ADJUST
RESET MIRRORS
TEST AF ACCURACY, METERING, EXPOSURE AND ADJUST TO NIKON STANDARDS
What about all that for a good camera. Tried to speak to someone to find out why all these needed attention, if at all and to speak to the person who worked on the camera with no joy. The camera is back and quite honestly I dont feel there is any difference. Went out today with an older D40 with the same lenses, 70-200vR and 300f4 and the results are far superior, and from a much cheaper camera. I am getting p----d off with the 300 and feel it is still not right but dont know where to turn. Feel like cutting my losses and just getting rid of it. Maybe its a Friday camera!! Would go to Canon if I didnt have so many lenses. Thats what I am at!!
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How old is the camera? How many actuations? Is it still under warranty? Surely if not performing correctly they should replace or repair it if under warranty.
 
Have you played around with the AF fine tune on your lenses. Canon has a similar system and its not had good reports.

Sometimes it's the lenses that are out of tune too, so adjusting just the camera's AF to work well with one lens won't solve the problem with another; indeed it can make other lenses worse.

Have you had your lenses calibrated for the camera?
 
Hard to comment on a particular case but the lengthy report could be no more than an indication that they did indeed check everything.

If you've come from a 6MP camera, do be aware that a higher-res sensor can show up hand shake, etc. more... if you've not already done so, try on a tripod and see if you still get the problem.

Also, Nikon do set their pro cameras on the soft side so you could try adding a little sharpening.

Now and again you do hear of unlucky people getting a lens and camera at opposite ends of tolerance but, as you've had the camera checked out, I'd have expected the problem to have reduced if this were the case.
 
merv said:
I have been dissatisfied with a lot of my D300 shots with respect sharpness. In fact have had the camera checked by Nikon UK for £70 plus VAT and they claim to have, and I quote
BODY DEPTH ADJUST
RESET MIRRORS
TEST AF ACCURACY, METERING, EXPOSURE AND ADJUST TO NIKON STANDARDS
What about all that for a good camera. Tried to speak to someone to find out why all these needed attention, if at all and to speak to the person who worked on the camera with no joy. The camera is back and quite honestly I dont feel there is any difference. Went out today with an older D40 with the same lenses, 70-200vR and 300f4 and the results are far superior, and from a much cheaper camera. I am getting p----d off with the 300 and feel it is still not right but dont know where to turn. Feel like cutting my losses and just getting rid of it. Maybe its a Friday camera!! Would go to Canon if I didnt have so many lenses. Thats what I am at!!
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Have you tried the D40 and D300 side by side, same lens, identical shots? That has got to be the first thing.

Then if it is still not right with the D300, send it back with the lens. I'm sure Nikon will sort it out.

For the D40 to outperform a D300 just does not stack up. D300 is a heck of a good camera, particularly the AF system.
 
No havent tried on tripod. I would have thought that 1000 sec wouldnt have shown handshake. I have been using high shutter speeds, at least around 1/1000 to eliminate handshake and am still often getting unsharpness.:help:All my lenses are Nikon:help:
 
Check the in-camera sharpness setting, Nikon are known for having a default on the soft side for their pro cameras -- many people seem to prefer this for pp. Canon bodies seem to be set to do a little more sharpening and consumer bodies are typically set pretty high -- but it's just a setting.

If it's on default you will likely see some softness; just push it up a notch and see how that looks. BTW are you looking at NEFs, JPEGs, or both?

You could also download a focus testing target and rule out it being a lens/camera focus problem.
 
can you post some shots you feel unhappy with - with EXIF data please.
 
acs said:
Check the in-camera sharpness setting, Nikon are known for having a default on the soft side for their pro cameras -- many people seem to prefer this for pp. Canon bodies seem to be set to do a little more sharpening and consumer bodies are typically set pretty high -- but it's just a setting.

If it's on default you will likely see some softness; just push it up a notch and see how that looks. BTW are you looking at NEFs, JPEGs, or both?

You could also download a focus testing target and rule out it being a lens/camera focus problem.
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Don't use that focus test target. It is notoriously unreliable and even if you don't have a focus problem, you will certainly think you have after using it. It is especially unreliable with long lenses.

It sounds like an inconsistant focusing problem, either the camera, or with respect top the OP, user error. All that is needed is side by side shots with the D40 to confirm that. Shoot at lowest f/number to reduce depth of field, subject at least 50x focal length distance (but not much further), fast shutter speed.

There's a lot of good info on focus checking on this thread http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=166932
 
merv said:
I have been dissatisfied with a lot of my D300 shots with respect sharpness. In fact have had the camera checked by Nikon UK for £70 plus VAT and they claim to have, and I quote
BODY DEPTH ADJUST
RESET MIRRORS
TEST AF ACCURACY, METERING, EXPOSURE AND ADJUST TO NIKON STANDARDS
What about all that for a good camera. Tried to speak to someone to find out why all these needed attention, if at all and to speak to the person who worked on the camera with no joy. The camera is back and quite honestly I dont feel there is any difference. Went out today with an older D40 with the same lenses, 70-200vR and 300f4 and the results are far superior, and from a much cheaper camera. I am getting p----d off with the 300 and feel it is still not right but dont know where to turn. Feel like cutting my losses and just getting rid of it. Maybe its a Friday camera!! Would go to Canon if I didnt have so many lenses. Thats what I am at!!
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MERV, as AWP suggested, can we have some side by side images from both your camera's.

I've also had a quick look at the only 3 images in your gallery, seems you like motorsport, but being critical, I would suggest panning technique and camera settings were a major factor why these shots (in gallery) weren't sharp or in focus and this could be the cause of your dissatisfaction.

The D700 won't improve things if its your technique that needs to be bushed up and a better understanding of your camera. Sorry to be blunt.
 
Thanks guys for being critical. I would like nothing more than for it to be operator error so at least I would know what to work on. My current problem is I have loads of photos of 'sitting ducks', literally and with even a high shutter speed they are not sharp. Another batch done yesterday with the D40 and the same lenses and subjects are much better (IMHO) Will post up some images - thanks for all your comments.:help:
 
merv said:
Thanks guys for being critical. I would like nothing more than for it to be operator error so at least I would know what to work on. My current problem is I have loads of photos of 'sitting ducks', literally and with even a high shutter speed they are not sharp. Another batch done yesterday with the D40 and the same lenses and subjects are much better (IMHO) Will post up some images - thanks for all your comments.:help:
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The technique for shooting moving objects is to get you body use to that movement of the pan, by achieving a smooth pan, this will eliminate a large percentage of camera shake (blurred images). When panning, you really need to pick up the subject early and move with the subject using AI SERVO and probably single focus point to keep subject in focus, when you have composed the image(s) you want, take a 1 or 2 shot burst (forget about frames per sec, only the top pro camera's really work with large bursts of shots, the rest just ain't fast enough to capture an image, refocus subject in new position and take another image....image..image etc, due to do with shutter lag times).

After you have taken the 1 or 2 shot burst, reposition and refocus giving camera time to catch up and take another couple of shots, remembering to continue panning after the last shot (that important) so you get the last shot.

As for camera settings, start high and slowly work down, trying to get 1/125 sec straight off (as some people suggest) is a complete waste of time and 90% of your shots will be soft, out of focus etc.

So for cars start at 1/400 1/320 sec or higher (personally wouldn't go lower than 1/150 sec, panning) and slowly work down.

If your shooting bikes, these are alot faster so higher shutter speeds are needed (personally wouldn't go lower than 1/200 sec, panning).

For head on shots, use AV and set a aperture that works, i.e. sweet spot for lenses, f7 - f11 and just let camera set shutter speeds.

Of course this will all depend on the light conditions, but your'll have some control by changing ISO and exposure compensation on your camera and also having faster lenses.
 
Thanks Pete. The sitting ducks were hardly moving bout when they were I used continual servo a and dynamic area focusing (nikon) Here are some images and I hope the EXIF data is there. Cant understand softness/out of focus with such high shuttet speeds
1
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2
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3
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4
_DSC5284.jpg

5
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EXIF data may not be there. How do I do that? Thanks
 
Exif is there :thumbs:

You have focusing set to AF-S that is where it will focus once, if the subject moves you will loose focus, unless you refocus.

For moving subjects I would suggest AF-C as focus adjusts as the subject moves.

This is the small lever to the right of the lens on your D300 (looking from the front).
 
I would always use single point focus for that subject as well, then you are 100% sure what you are focusing on, use the switch to the right of the LCD screen to select single point.

Having just read your post with the images, you think you are shooting in a continuos servo mode, according to the exif data you are not as I said in my previous post. This could (almost certainly would) make focusing on fast moving objects or any moving object impossible.

I always have the front lever set to AF-C page 62 of the manual refers, the lever is marked C, S, M, C is its most forward position :thumbs:
 
merv said:
Thanks Pete. The sitting ducks were hardly moving bout when they were I used continual servo a and dynamic area focusing (nikon) Here are some images and I hope the EXIF data is there. Cant understand softness/out of focus with such high shuttet speeds...
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Sharpest point appears to be smack in the middle :thinking:

Have you done comparison A vs B pics with the D40? Have you read the thread I linked to earlier? Have you followed those test guide lines?

Whatever the cause, it's simple focusing error. Could be fixed as easily as selecting the right focus point. At worst, a camera focus calibration job. Easy either way :)
 
HoppyUK said:
Sharpest point appears to be smack in the middle :thinking:

Have you done comparison A vs B pics with the D40? Have you read the thread I linked to earlier? Have you followed those test guide lines?

Whatever the cause, it's simple focusing error. Could be fixed as easily as selecting the right focus point. At worst, a camera focus calibration job. Easy either way :)
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Hoppy he has AF-S not AF-C selected, he needs AF-C selected.
 
Martyn... said:
Hoppy he has AF-S not AF-C selected, he needs AF-C selected.
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Seems you have hit the nail on the head..... several points to look at.

First and foremost set from S to C (continual focus)
Select either 21 point or 51 point in menus
Use either single point focus or mutipoint focus not dynamic as it is really only for Scene Recognition System (groups of people for instance).

Pick your subject and chose one of the focus points within either 51/21 point settings.

Take picture.

The reason your D80 is taking better pictures is because it is effectively a point and shoot (it does all the work for you. ) The d300/d700/D3 are completely different beasts and you need to spend time on each setting to truly understand and get the best out of them.

Do not use either focus lock or 3D tracking at this point it will just confuse the issue.

For the record S is only really used in static circumstances and even then with care, I do not subscribe to the old focus and re-compose as it changes the focal plane.

The simple answer is to download view NX and select in the menus show focus point, I would bet no focus Lock was achieved or the focus lock was not where you intended it to be. If you have a raw copy, link it and I'll look at it with Capture NX2 and report back.

Cheers

Grant


PS I went from a D80 to D300 and had the same learning curve you are going through and lots of out of focus shots:D
 
Should easily be solvable there Merv, I don't think its the camera reading the thread!

Read the above advice and you should suss it... if you were closer I'd offer to pop round and show you, but sadly I'm not.
 
Thanks guys for all that bewildering advice. you're beginning to convince me its me and not the camera. Will get back in due course with my thoughts but answer me this one. When I go into the details of my shots I cant find where it says AF-C OR AF-S. How do I get that? Can get the other info eg aperture, speed etc. I thought I was using AF-C and had the front swithch on 'C'. Also had dynamic area focusing on. Do they not go hand in hand or can one be on without the other? BAck later:clap:
 
merv said:
Thanks guys for all that bewildering advice. you're beginning to convince me its me and not the camera. Will get back in due course with my thoughts but answer me this one. When I go into the details of my shots I cant find where it says AF-C OR AF-S. How do I get that? Can get the other info eg aperture, speed etc. I thought I was using AF-C and had the front swithch on 'C'. Also had dynamic area focusing on. Do they not go hand in hand or can one be on without the other? BAck later:clap:
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Merv email me one of those duck shots. lighterman35@hotmail.com
 
:help:When I look at the photo details I see everything but AF-C or AF-S. How do you guys know what I was using - where do I find that information?
 
For those familiar with Nikon can I check the camera settings.
1)in autofocus a1 - AF-C priority selection i have - Release (should it be release + focus?)
2) in "" "" a2 - AF-S priority selection I have - Focus
3) in a3 - dynamic area I have 21 points

When in continual servo are you ALWAYS in dynamic mode?

I was shooting in the 'big white rectangle' auto focus area mode - is this the wrong one to use? When do you use it - landscapes?
There'll be more questions later. I do understand the difference between C and S mode and I thought most of the time I was in 'C' mode with dynamic area but you say I wasn't:help:
 
merv, drop me a pm with your email address in and I will email a spreadsheet i found on line to help with the set up of your d300, i sat with the manual and this and decided if the settings were worth it or to change them.
 
Martyn - I thought i was in 'C' anad dynamic mode all the time but you say I wasnt. I cant access this part of the exif data for some reason - everything else is clear - how do i get it. You guys are all being a great help and it is much appreciated:help:
 
merv said:
For those familiar with Nikon can I check the camera settings.
1)in auto focus a1 - AF-C priority selection i have - Release (should it be release + focus?)2) in "" "" a2 - AF-S priority selection I have - Focus
3) in a3 - dynamic area I have 21 points

When in continual servo are you ALWAYS in dynamic mode?

I was shooting in the 'big white rectangle' auto focus area mode - is this the wrong one to use? When do you use it - landscapes?
There'll be more questions later. I do understand the difference between C and S mode and I thought most of the time I was in 'C' mode with dynamic area but you say I wasn't:help:
Click to expand...

There is your problem ! I have bolded it.

Basically you can take picture at any time with this setting irrespective of focus. Change to Focus (camera will not take picture til focus is achieved).

You could also set it to focus and release this sometimes helps for things like birds in flight or fast moving targets, you will get a mix of in and out of focus shots.

Try my initial suggestion first.


I was shooting in the 'big white rectangle' auto focus area mode

No use one of the lower two

cheers

Grant
 
As they've been saying, the only issue really seems to be your focus point/method.




AFC priority selection is not necessarily the problem here, as you may have had a focus lock, just not in the right place. It can't hurt to change it to focus though, it may take some getting used to.

EDIT: I need to read the whole thread before responding.....just refer to post #29, it spells out most of your issue.
 
Hi Delk - how do you bring up that EXIF table?
ALSO Is it possible that I have focus lock on the shutter release button as soon as I touch it. AE lock is on it I think?
How do I find post #29. Sorry for the stupid questions but together we'll crack this:help::help:
 
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