I'm happy to save £300+ and have slight tightnessHi Rob. Whilst you can offset inbalance with additional friction the reality is that in use with heavy glass a correctly balanced Gimbal is far more efficient to use than an un balanced slightly tightened one. Both will work it's just one works better.
We all have differences of opinion and I don't wish to argue but Its not far more efficient at all, the Lensmaster works as explained in my previous post .Hi Rob. Whilst you can offset inbalance with additional friction the reality is that in use with heavy glass a correctly balanced Gimbal is far more efficient to use than an un balanced slightly tightened one. Both will work it's just one works better.
You have to adjust the height though to get the perfect balance. If using different lenses, then you have to change the height.So the lensmaster doesn't work with all lenses unless you are lucky. If not you need to put some friction on the head.
The wimberley will work without having any friction applied at all.
The lensmaster is a compromise. If a compromise is worth x number of pounds to people then buy it. Personally I wouldnt give it house room because of the very fact that it is compromised.
A bit of both ,when shooting helicopters or prop plains you may well drop down to 1/80 sec for say a chinook or 1/125sec for a Lynx so some support will help.Do you guys use your gimbals for air shows?
I went to RIAT last year and used my 150-600 handheld.. .and also at Cosford, but noticed there was a guy with a large lens (probably a 500 or 600 Canon) on a gimbal - I understand why he would need to do that but is there any sense in doing it for a 150-600? Is tracking the aircraft easier etc?
A bit of both ,when shooting helicopters or prop plains you may well drop down to 1/80 sec for say a chinook or 1/125sec for a Lynx so some support will help.
Rob.
IMHO, if you can manage it handheld, then that is the way to go.Do you guys use your gimbals for air shows?
I went to RIAT last year and used my 150-600 handheld.. .and also at Cosford, but noticed there was a guy with a large lens (probably a 500 or 600 Canon) on a gimbal - I understand why he would need to do that but is there any sense in doing it for a 150-600? Is tracking the aircraft easier etc?
Actually, I quit using gimbal heads altogether...Really funny watching the people with £600 gimbals trying to justify them.
If there doing one of those super fast flybys and your close then yes it really depends on how far away they are and how fast there going relative to your position.Ok thanks, makes sense. But with a fast fighter jet best to hand hold ?
Really funny watching the people with £600 gimbals trying to justify them.
I'm sure they a really nice, but certainly not worth the money paid and my lensmaster does exactly what I need it to do without up and down adjustment.
Actually, I quit using gimbal heads altogether...
There are a lot of situational variables... I use a 400/2.8 (+TCs) and I almost never use a tripod. I do if set in one place for extended times and it's conducive, but that is rare (using a tripod in a situation where you can't move much is very limiting). As I noted early on, I've switched back to using pan-tilt heads (UniqBall).but if you were doing wildlife photography for instance, with a 500/600mm lens surely one needs a gimbal for stability as hand holding is nigh impossible for sharp, clean photos?
I use my gimbal on my monopod as I don't see the point in spending more money for another head when I already own the gimbal.IMHO, if you can manage it handheld, then that is the way to go.
I really don't understand using a gimbal on a monopod... an inexpensive tilt/pan-tilt head will do just as well (Sirui L10/L20).
but if you were doing wildlife photography for instance, with a 500/600mm lens surely one needs a gimbal for stability as hand holding is nigh impossible for sharp, clean photos?
That makes sense...I use my gimbal on my monopod as I don't see the point in spending more money for another head when I already own the gimbal.
As I mentioned previously (post #19), I usually use a 393 but for my last ISS effort I used the RH-2 and I really liked it.Has anyone changed from a Manfrotto 393 to a lensmaster?
Seriously considering switching mine for an LM but need to try one first, I think
Do you guys use your gimbals for air shows?
I went to RIAT last year and used my 150-600 handheld.. .and also at Cosford, but noticed there was a guy with a large lens (probably a 500 or 600 Canon) on a gimbal - I understand why he would need to do that but is there any sense in doing it for a 150-600? Is tracking the aircraft easier etc?
but if you were doing wildlife photography for instance, with a 500/600mm lens surely one needs a gimbal for stability as hand holding is nigh impossible for sharp, clean photos?
I have used several over the last few years ,only recently migrating to a jobu gimbal head and its like driving a rolls after having had a mini
....I have the small Jobu Jr-3 Deluxe which I use mounted on a Platypod Max < A very useful setup in hides for example. Jobu gimbals are excellent in all respects.
Otherwise I have one of the first Gitzo Fluid Gimbal Heads in the UK and have used it regularly for 6 weeks mounted on a Gitzo Systematic tripod and supporting a Canon 500mm F/4L II. While out in the field I have let friends have a half-hour play/shoot with it while I have transferred my camera to their gimbal. Result is that 2 are now selling their Wimberley 2 and 3 others have now ordered the Gitzo. I found the Wimberley 2 to feel too loose by comparison as the Gitzo's fluid damping does so much to help nail the shots. The Wimberley 2 is very good indeed but if you try out the Gitzo Fluid Gimbal you'll understand that the difference is like chalk and cheese.
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/so-who-is-getting-the-new-gitzo-gimbal-fluid-head.671248/
That guy sounds like me...This is not rocket science. The benefits of fluid damping have been known to movie makers like forever...
I just sold one of the cheapo Chinese ones that I had stripped down and rebuilt ,unfortunately they are definetly not as good as a proper one even cleaned ,greased and ptfe washers added ( I do have a engineering background so I know what I'm doing ) and I suppose a lot depends on what body and lens combo you use to
l really like the look of the manfrotto n8 nitro head but want to see one in the flesh first, I can imagine it be really good upmin Scotland filming the red squirrels etc, last year I was lucky enough to watch a weasel working a bank but struggle to smoothly follow it while filmingThat guy sounds like me...
I've been trying to explain this to Wimberley users for decades to no avail...
I have a redundant lensmaster one I do not use, I replaced it with a RRS one which I like as being a component item you can fold it up and also use it as a pano head, the best thing I did to the Lensmaster item was to fit a RRS arca plate to the base allowing me to clamp and remove it from my tripod quickly.