Beginner Live view

Richard Best

Richard Best

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Richard
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I've tried searching around and was unable to find the answer but apologies if these have been asked before.

2 quick questions about live view:

1. Is there any difference to the final image if it's taken via live view rather than through a viewfinder? Like, does the quality drop or anything? So should I be composing my image in live view and then switching back to the viewfinder before I release the shutter?

2. On my d3200, a cover locks up when I switch to live view obscuring the viewfinder. Is this to avoid 'light leak' or do I still need to cover over the viewfinder for longer exposures?

I continue in my question to grasp all of my camera's settings :)
 
The SLR bit of DSLR is sigle lens reflex. A miror and pentaprism, make a periscope to port the image the lens sees to the view finder, hence 'singe lens' view finder looks through same lens as takes picture.
When you press the shutter, the mirror 'pops up' to let the light going through the lens fall on the film or digi-sensor.
It's ot a cover popping p over the view finder; its part of the periscope mechanism.
In the box if you bought the camera new should have been a view finder cover, so that if you do use live view, or if you are taking very long exposures, yo can blank off the view finder to stop any back-ground light getting throgh the periscope the 'wrong way' and causing flare effects i the mirror housing, if the mirror isn't perfectly light-tight when flicked up.
Other than that (& I dont use the view-fnder cover at all!) No, using live view shouldn't effect image quality... other than it will likely mean you are holding camera poorly at arms length to see screen, so subject to or motion blur. AND ignoting the ONE damn feature that makes a DSLR a DSLR, to use it like rather large, rather heavy a view-screen compact.
There are circumstances it can be useful, but ot many. Use the vew finder, thats what you bought a camera with complicated mirror and pentaprsm mechnism for, and use the back panel for dimmed out settig data, and save battery power.
 
1. No, no and no.

2. What you're seeing is the effect of the mirror flipping up. It doesn't actually cover the viewfinder (in the sense of being light proof), but when the mirror is up the light coming through the lens is directed onto the sensor rather than into the viewfinder. If you're doing a long exposure and there is a source of light behind the camera, it's probably a good idea to shade the viewfinder to stop unwanted light getting in, bouncing around, and reaching the sensor.
 
It is good to use live view on a tripod for say landscapes,you can compose your image in manual focus and press the plus button to zoom in close view wise to get pin sharp exposure or so im led to believe
 
Thanks ^^

So I'm gonna go ahead and make this a "Richard's stupid questions" thread as I don't want to make another thread for something so basic

My next question is about focusing in landscape shots.

I understand that generally you want to set the focus to about 1/3 of the way into the frame but what is the best way to do this?

Is it done on the lenses manual focus? Do you point your camera at the ground and then lock the focus and re-adjust your shot? Do you move the focus point to the ground but then I assume this would effect the exposure of the shot as well? Or is it something else i'm missing?

I've found a load of information on hyperfocal lengths, depth of field calculators and so on but nothing about the actual physical act of focusing.

Hope this makes sense :confused:
 
Richard ,im still learning myself but you for example manual focus a third of way into the landscape say,and because you set a reasonably small aperture for example F11 then the other 2 thirds will be in focus also.
Someone with more experience will be along soon but thats the general idea,and use the plus button in live view to get that focus sharp,you dont recompose just get your composition and then manual focus a third of way in ,get it sharp and then use remote release or 2 sec timer etc ..
 
Richard Best said:
Thanks ^^

So I'm gonna go ahead and make this a "Richard's stupid questions" thread as I don't want to make another thread for something so basic

My next question is about focusing in landscape shots.

I understand that generally you want to set the focus to about 1/3 of the way into the frame but what is the best way to do this?

Is it done on the lenses manual focus? Do you point your camera at the ground and then lock the focus and re-adjust your shot? Do you move the focus point to the ground but then I assume this would effect the exposure of the shot as well? Or is it something else i'm missing?

I've found a load of information on hyperfocal lengths, depth of field calculators and so on but nothing about the actual physical act of focusing.

Hope this makes sense :confused:
Click to expand...


Even in landscapes there's generally a plane of interest or even a point that's the centre of attention so I make sure that that's what's in sharpest focus and use f/8 or so to get as much depth of field to give me acceptable sharpness through the whole scene. I'll either move the AF point to the spot (or a point on the plane) or use live view and zoom in (as suggested above). I'll usually either chimp to check the exposure or bracket to make sure I nail it (or my camera nails it) unless I've moved to Manual exposure. TBH, the matrix metering on my Nikons is usually pretty much spot on, as are the Fujis but any of them are easy enough to dial in any EC that might be needed.
 
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