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This is a crop...
How much of that noise is on the film and how mauch came in when you scanned?
and please use their services
Lomo film
- Thread starter SparkUK
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How much of that noise is on the film and how mauch came in when you scanned?
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- Alan
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Broken one? :shrug:
I think the whole Lo-fi art student look can be quite cool on the right subject, but any old scene shot isn't a good photo just because it comes out in that style.
Might have to leave some Superia in the window and have a play.
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Except the later ones, where changing the cloudy/sunny setting actually results in a changed aperture
that's the ones I'm on about, it's a bit of a conspiracy apparently as to whether they do actually change aperture. Even so my photos would still be overexposed with f11. I had an idea of getting some cheapo ebay ND filters to carry round and then shoot at ISO400 and then just use the filter to adjust exposure, also people complain about cheap ebay filters however would that add to the "crap yet beautiful" lomo image
TheBigYin
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they all are
Original 120's were theoretically f8 or f11 depending on the cloudy/bright setting, though in a number of the older ones, the secondary aperture plate was omitted, meaning the cloudy/bright switch didn't function and leaving a aperture of nearer f10. My 120GN purchased last year is fitted with the secondary plate, though I admit, I didn't actually measure the 2 sizes to check.
As far as shutter speeds are concerned, it's all a bit of a lottery, as with everything else on these toy cameras. After all the shutter is only driven with a couple of wound wire springs.... Over the production life of these items, various alterations have been made - some to improve quality and reduce/minimise light leakage , some to add features e.g. different film masks - originally shipped with 6x4.5 only, they now come with a 6x6, and others like the missing aperture plates, that are probably down to cheese-paring on the price.
Oh - and my other Holga is f:135, not f:8, and needs a few elephants of exposure time.
TheBigYin
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that's the ones I'm on about, it's a bit of a conspiracy apparently as to whether they do actually change aperture. Even so my photos would still be overexposed with f11. I had an idea of getting some cheapo ebay ND filters to carry round and then shoot at ISO400 and then just use the filter to adjust exposure, also people complain about cheap ebay filters however would that add to the "crap yet beautiful" lomo image
It's not a "conspiracy theory" at all - it's a simple thing to verify - some cameras were produced without the secondary aperture plate - others were'nt. 5 minutes with a screwdriver and a small degree of mechanical aptitude and you can verify which camp yours fits into...
Oh - the idea of ND filters is a sound one though - as it the use of red/orange/yellow ones for B&W film. I actually hacked both my holgas to take screw in filters - 58mm for the 120GN and 77mm for the 120WPC. It's a simple mod, featuring a step-up ring, a nailfile and a tube of gel-superglue...
Holga - filter mount detail by The Big Yin, on Flickr
Holga WPC120 Pinhole Camera by The Big Yin, on Flickr
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It's not a "conspiracy theory" at all - it's a simple thing to verify - some cameras were produced without the secondary aperture plate - others were'nt. 5 minutes with a screwdriver and a small degree of mechanical aptitude and you can verify which camp yours fits into...
Oh - the idea of ND filters is a sound one though - as it the use of red/orange/yellow ones for B&W film. I actually hacked both my holgas to take screw in filters - 58mm for the 120GN and 77mm for the 120WPC. It's a simple mod, featuring a step-up ring, a nailfile and a tube of gel-superglue...
Holga - filter mount detail by The Big Yin, on Flickr
Holga WPC120 Pinhole Camera by The Big Yin, on Flickr
Yeah I've seen that filter holder thing done a couple of times, it's pretty good. I might get a Holga and do alot of experimenting on the mechanics of it
TheBigYin
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I was actually slightly surprised that my 120GN pretty much worked out of the box to be honest, no light leaks, the back stayed on firmly, the film didn't need to be wedged in with bits of film-box, and the aperture switch worked. Only problems were both film frames needed a bit of work to loose some sharp moulding edges which would have scratched the films to bejasus, and of course, fitting the filter ring. If anything, the image quality from it is a bit too good to be honest, especially with the 4.5x6 frame fitted. At least on the 6x6 frame theres a decent amount of vignetting
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I found it easier to remove the back and look through the lens as I operated the aperture switch.
If you can see the difference in aperture diameter, then yours has the correct plate fitted
OP
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That's a valid question which I can't answer, I mainly use my scanner for black and white as I don't shoot much colour film. Black and white is generally pretty clean.
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