Long exposure and sharp images

cmc1

cmc1

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Name
Chris
Edit My Images
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I am struggling to get my images tack sharp during long exposure shots.
Can anyone give me some tips on how to achieve sharp images?

I'll go though my most recent shot and kit

Nikon D610 ff 24mp (using cable release)

24-85 vr (vr was off) f stop was f18

LEE WA filter holder and big stopper

all sitting on a benbo 1 tripod (big ol beast)

exposure was 62 seconds

focus points was selected to auto

to me the images does not look sharp enough.

I only use lightroom and not really a fan staking images, I would like to get as much as I can right in camera rather than post.

Obviously the images is re-sized for posting reasons.

I could change my lens for the 24-70 2.8 but I am told there aint really that much difference when used for long exposures.

any advice would be appreciated. View attachment 43378
 
f 18 is not the best aperture to use with any lens. Strange things happen as you stop down!
Here's a link to a sharpness test for your lens. As you can see, f8 is the sharpest aperture, the same with most lenses.

https://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-24-85mm-vr/4

It's very hard to say how sharp your pic is at this resolution, a link to Flickr for the full size would be better.
 
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Yes. I though it might be the aperture. I will try a lower f stop next and will get a long to the full size image
 
The aperture wont have helped, but I'm wondering about your focusing method aswell.
Were you using autofocus after the filter was in place???
The autofocus will struggle to get it right through the filter in all but the brightest conditions, usually better to focus first, fit the filter and switch to manual focus so the camera doesnt try to autofocus when you take the shot.
 
Steve B said:
The aperture wont have helped, but I'm wondering about your focusing method aswell.
Were you using autofocus after the filter was in place???
The autofocus will struggle to get it right through the filter in all but the brightest conditions, usually better to focus first, fit the filter and switch to manual focus so the camera doesnt try to autofocus when you take the shot.
Click to expand...
Yep. I'd missed that. It becomes a habit so you don't think about it till someone points it out.
 
Must admit I am with the auto-focus switch off remedy. Be interesting to see the differences.
 
Agree with the points re aperture above. Also, be specific about focus. Always focus where *you* want the field to start and use an aperture that is appropriate for the field you want to capture. Don't let the camera decide for you. One other point is that from the shot it appears that the tripod is sitting on pebbles/shale. Even the smallest amount of settling will cause the image to soften. You really need to dig the feet right in to stop this from happening. Another factor is wind. Even minor buffeting will soften the image.

HTH
 
Hard to say without being there with this composition, but knowing Durdle Door it looks like you could have got the required depth with f/11 - I would try and focus in live view as you check it is critically sharp. If your lens needs some fine tuning, then using the usual af points may mean it is slightly out and therefore slightly soft.

On FX, I wouldn't go any further than F/16 otherwise you start to get horrible diffraction that will reduce sharpness.

Ps I like the lead from the curve of the bay.
 
Just to chip in, as mentioned above, I always focus the shot before attaching my ND filter, then switch to manual focus and just be careful not to nudge the focus ring.

That said, I was trying a few LE's with my LX100 as an experiment recently, and was able to autofocus with the 10 stop in place.

I try and use a wider aperture (f11-f16 usually, depending on the conditions) than you used here and dial in some - exposure compensation - seems to work for me.
 
Definitely switch off auto focus, I'd recommend manual focusing rather than focusing in auto and switching to manual. Use live view and zoom into the focal point.

Other than that, make sure the tripod is steady, weigh it down with a bag if necessary. And also use a remote or set a 2 sec timer to avoid shaking the camera when starting the exposure.
 
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