Macro Lens Advice!

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Hi all, I really enjoy macro work and I currently use an old Pentax 100mm f/4 prime (with tubes if I need 1:1- which isn't ideal). It is completely manual but the IQ is pretty good and built very well!

I'm not fussed about the lack of AF, but it would be very nice to have aperture control from the camera. To get decent DOF I have to stop the lens down before taking the pic which makes it very dark sometimes- even with a light. I would like to replace it with a newer version which like all modern lenses leaves the aperture wide open for focussing then snaps it shut for the picture.

I was thinking about the Canon 100mm, however I was wondering if I would benefit from say a 150mm or 180mm instead. It is all insects that I shoot, and the extra reach would be great- BUT- as with any long lens- camera shake is much more of a problem than with short lenses- though with a flash 90% of the time it may not be as much of a problem- though a 180mm lens at 1/250sec may still be prone to some shake may it not?

Ideas & opinions please! btw- I cant afford an MPe-65!!!
 
I asked exactly the same question last week :D

I ended up getting the Canon 100mm 2.8 USM and I'm as happy as a pig in ******.
From the responses I got was the 150mm will give a bit more working distance but is very heavy to work with and not ideal for hand held.

The IQ of the Canon is spot on and obviously being a new lens, is wide open until you press the shutter release.
The auto focus is good for normal shots ie portraits etc but I do find it hunts a bit when close up, but then again manual focus is better for close up work anyway.
 
I think I found your thread when I did a search before creating this one- I always overlook the fact that the 100mm f/2.8 may well make a good portrait prime as well!

I'm not fussed by the weight but just more worried by camera shake on a longer one- and I cant afford one with IS!!! Also would the auto aperture still work with decent electronic extension tubes?
 
I think I found your thread when I did a search before creating this one- I always overlook the fact that the 100mm f/2.8 may well make a good portrait prime as well!

I'm not fussed by the weight but just more worried by camera shake on a longer one- and I cant afford one with IS!!! Also would the auto aperture still work with decent electronic extension tubes?

Yes, I use mine with Kenko Extension tubes. As long as you get the decent ones with all the pass through pins the auto focus and aperture work exactly the same, and all the correct information is passed to the EXIF.
 
The longer the focal length, the more blurry the background at the same lens to subject distance.

As said bigger lenses will be a PITA to use. From what I have seen the Tamron 90mm f2.8 and the Canon 100mm f2.8 are really decent lenses to use. The 100mm canon is the one I will probably go for when I can afford it. Image examples from either lens can be found on Flickr groups (just search for the lens) and are stuning!
 
I recently purchased the Canon 100 F2.8Lis and have found it to be supurb.It's a bit more expensive but in my mind worth every penny.I have also used it with a Kenko 1.4 Tcon to give a 140mm focal length and never noticed any drop off in image quality.You still have the use of the IS with the tcon attatched.
The af is also very fast and the lens works great as a normal 100mm lens.

Gary
 
"The longer the focal length, the more blurry the background at the same lens to subject distance."

I think that current thinking (which I agree with) is that the only things that affect DoF are aperture and format size. It may appear that zoom length affects DoF but examination seems to confirm that this is just an optical illusion caused by framing.

Anyway, I just thought I'd mention that. It's up to each of us to make our own minds up.
 
"The longer the focal length, the more blurry the background at the same lens to subject distance."

I think that current thinking (which I agree with) is that the only things that affect DoF are aperture and format size. It may appear that zoom length affects DoF but examination seems to confirm that this is just an optical illusion caused by framing.

Try this with a 17mm lens (17-55mm kit lens) and then a 300 mm lens at same aperture and I think you will find that "current thinking" is wrong.
 
Cheers- any thoughts from people who have changed from longer to shorter or vice versa with pros and cons?

I tried the Sigma 150mm but ended up buying the Canon 100mm. The extra working distance of the Sigma was nice but I'd say particularly for hand-held work the Canon is far more manageable as it's that bit lighter.

It really is an excellent lens, I'd highly recommend it :)
 
"The longer the focal length, the more blurry the background at the same lens to subject distance."

I think that current thinking (which I agree with) is that the only things that affect DoF are aperture and format size. It may appear that zoom length affects DoF but examination seems to confirm that this is just an optical illusion caused by framing.

Anyway, I just thought I'd mention that. It's up to each of us to make our own minds up.

interesting:thinking:

I wrote that because i had just read it in a magazine....OK it was Womans Own but hey! NO NO IT WASN'T!!!:lol: It was a proper photo mag!:D
 
"Try this with a 17mm lens (17-55mm kit lens) and then a 300 mm lens at same aperture and I think you will find that "current thinking" is wrong."

I'm very familiar with wide lenses as my most used lens (on APS-C) is a 12-24mm.

This is something we can all try, just take the shot at different zoom lengths but the same aperture and enlarge / crop to get the same image.

Here's a link, I'll post a better example later if anyone is interested.

http://www.film-and-video.com/dofmyth.htm

another...

http://cybercollege.com/myths.htm
 
"Try this with a 17mm lens (17-55mm kit lens) and then a 300 mm lens at same aperture and I think you will find that "current thinking" is wrong."

I'm very familiar with wide lenses as my most used lens (on APS-C) is a 12-24mm.

This is something we can all try, just take the shot at different zoom lengths but the same aperture and enlarge / crop to get the same image.

Here's a link, I'll post a better example later if anyone is interested.

http://www.film-and-video.com/dofmyth.htm

another...

http://cybercollege.com/myths.htm

" If you are shooting an interview but the background looks too sharp and you back your camera up and zoom into your person again keeping them the same size as you did when the camera was closer while keeping the same f-stop on your lens, THE PERCEPTABLE DEPTH OF FIELD DOES NOT CHANGE."

This is NOT the same as shooting at the same distance with a longer focal length lens and a shorter focal length lens which is what I understood the question to be.
 
Peter mat, calm down. There's no need to shout.

I originally posted to just add to the discussion with an alternative view. A view that I've come to believe is probably correct.

If you don't agree with the idea that only two things affect DoF, aperture and format size, and want to believe that focal length affects DoF too that's a perfectly valid stand point and you can even do your own experiments to help you decide.

As they say...

"Try this experiment: Take a wide-angle still photo of a scene. Without moving your camera position switch to a telephoto lens of the same basic optical design and take another photo. Then enlarge a section out of the wide-angle shot equal to what you got with the telephoto shot.

When you compare the two you will find (1) depth of field in the selected area is the same, and (2) the perspective is the same.

In other words, the blown-up section of the wide-angle scene will be identical to the telephoto version of the same scene (with allowances for some grain and lack of sharpness associated with the enlarging process).

It is only when we make a comparison based on different image sizes that the wide-angle lens ends up having a different perspective and depth of field than a telephoto lens."

and..

"Bottom line: There are two ways of creating Depth of field; by image size and f-stop. So as in our example, if the image size and f-stop are kept constant, the depth of field will be the same regardless of focal length or angle of view."
 
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