Beginner macro lens question(getting in close for really small insects)

iwols

iwols

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hi all using a 90mm tamron macro lens at the minute,and getting some good results with things like flys etc
_DSC1424 by iwols, on Flickr_DSC1339 by iwols, on Flickr,

but when i try to photograph anything much smaller(say a small whitefly) i just cant get close enough in ,would a 150mm macro lens do this or would it just alter the minimum focussing distance,any comments appreciated
 
Any normal macro lens that does 1:1 will give the same magnification.

To get closer, you have some options.

1. Extension tubes.
2. Raynox 250
3. Combine those two. This can get you very close.
4. If you're a Canon user, the MPE65
 
thanks for that simon ,, the minimum focus distance is 11 inch with this tamron ,if i used any of the above would the minimum focus distance become less as well,as 11 inch is getting pretty close any way cheers unfortunately in this case im using nikon
 
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Extension tubes reduce the minimum focus distance. You'll probably also lose infinity focus too. Best to look for tubes with electrical contacts so you can retain sperture control (there is a work around if not)

But 11 inches is miles away :)
 
I used to have the Tamron, and got good results getting in very close with a set of extension tubes (with contacts) and a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter.
 
MadWoman said:
I used to have the Tamron, and got good results getting in very close with a set of extension tubes (with contacts) and a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter.
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thanks what do you use now please
 
was going to get the sigma 105mm then spoke to a couple of people who had very good shots and just got the Kenko ext set and the rayon 250, to use on at first my 50mm 1.8 then on the 85mm 1.8


http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.co.uk

this guy uses a 60mm on a canon with ext etc. another guy on flickr was using a compact pan with a raynox 250 and the shots were amazing but will have to see how it goes,a lot to learn for me.
 
iwols said:
hi all using a 90mm tamron macro lens at the minute,and getting some good results with things like flys etc
_DSC1424 by iwols, on Flickr_DSC1339 by iwols, on Flickr,

but when i try to photograph anything much smaller(say a small whitefly) i just cant get close enough in ,would a 150mm macro lens do this or would it just alter the minimum focussing distance,any comments appreciated
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You could try lens coupling (putting a reversed lens in front of another lens) like this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/20926615@N05/sets/72157628714278311

This involves using a special coupler to fit one lens in front of another - the coupler is fitted to the filter threads on both lenses - however both lenses should really be of good grade.

The magnification obtained is the ratio of the lens fitted to the camera to the one coupled to it - in my case this was 300mm /50mm which could give approx 6/1 magnification at the sensor.

I used my 70-300mm L IS lens as the one fitted to the camera and the 50mm f1.8 fitted to the front of it.

The use of a zoom lens meant that the magnification could be altered.

But the drawback is the DOF - at such extreme magnification the DOF is truly microscopic - as you can see from the pic of the ballpoint.

I used the inbuilt 10 sec delay to really reduce shake or tremor.

The other drawback is the reduced light so you have to turn up the ISO.

But it's one technique you could try at very small cost.
.
 
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Thanks guys magnification doesnt seem a problem but thé working distance im left with is ,90 mm with thé dcr 250 is nearly touching the object
 
iwols said:
Thanks guys magnification doesnt seem a problem but thé working distance im left with is ,90 mm with thé dcr 250 is nearly touching the object
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I find that surprising. I didn't think achromats had a significant impact on working distance and your 90mm should give a good start point. What are the bugs you are trying to shoot? I would expect a working distance of only a few inches or less, so if the bugs are a bit flighty then you'll need to review your approach technique. Move slowly, approach from below rather than above, be careful your shadow doesn't fall on them. They wil be slower early morning before the sun hits them (so it's not the easiest time of year for shooting, although there are plenty about), or have a look just after a downpour.

Oh and keep trying! Eventually you will find an individual willing to pose for a short while.

Hths
 
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Paul-H said:
For small bugs you need to look into Micro photography which is beyond Macro Photography.

Macro at 1 to 1 is ok for large bugs and butterfly's/Moths etc but small bugs need much more magnification than can be given by a macro lens.
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What???? Seriously....

As @TimmyG said 11 inches is miles away. The Venus which goes to 2:1 has mfd of 2 inches.

I would suggest before you get too much GAS get some tubes try it out or Raynox which I have not seen it affect IQ at all.

This way you can increase magnification or get a 18-55 kit lens and reverse it for upto 3-4x magnification.

90mm tamron + dcr250 works fine when I had that setup I had no issues what so ever even using the dcr202 was ok.
 
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Tintin124 said:
What???? Seriously....

As @TimmyG said 11 inches is miles away. The Venus which goes to 2:1 has mfd of 2 inches.

I would suggest before you get too much GAS get some tubes try it out or Raynox which I have not seen it affect IQ at all.

This way you can increase magnification or get a 18-55 kit lens and reverse it for upto 3-4x magnification.

90mm tamron + dcr250 works fine when I had that setup I had no issues what so ever even using the dcr202 was ok.
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yes its about 2 inch with the 90mm and dcr 250 but i could do with a bit longer working distance as my dual flash is even closer than the 2 inch
 
iwols said:
yes its about 2 inch with the 90mm and dcr 250 but i could do with a bit longer working distance as my dual flash is even closer than the 2 inch
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Which flash and bracket do you have? I know the Canon MT-24ex bracket enables you to adjust the angle of the flash heads at different magnifications, but I can imaging this will be an issue if the flash heads are mounted right at the end of the lens (you can overshoot your subject). If you can find a way to mount them further back, and maybe add a diffusion layer at the lens level, that would be a better solution.
 
im using the nikon r1c1 twin flash which fastens to the front of the lens
 
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