Macro Lens

What a lot of people don't realise is that taking close ups is actually quite difficult to get right, particularly for live subjects. The learning curve is steep, failure rate is high and you need to take a lot of pictures to get one or two that are good.
For that reason, I would also recommend the Raynox DCR-250. It's optically very good and its low price means if macro isn't for you after all then you won't have lost much. If you decide that you want to go further and eventually go for a true macro lens then the Raynox has a good resale value.
You get higher magnification at longer focal lengths, so if you have a medium telephoto such as the 55-200mm then that might work better with the Raynox than the 18-55 kit lens.
I shoot butterflies, preferring natural light where possible because flash can darken the background. If you don't have image stabilisation you may find a monopod is sufficient to avoid camera shake and get good shots without using flash.
Mike.
 
Wow those pictures are amazing. I will definetly look into getting one of those!

Good :thumbs:

The thing about most macro photography, is because depth of field is so shallow anyway, three quarters of the picture (or more) is usually out of focus. So there's little point in spending a load of money unless you shoot critical stuff like stamps or coins that need super-sharpness right to the corners.

Other things that make the modest little Raynox work are that most of the time the important part of the subject is in the centre, which is where it is sharpest, and you have to use a high f/number to get as much depth of field as you can, which also helps reduce lens aberrations for really quite impressive sharpness.

There's more. If you do the same thing with a pukka macro lens or extension tubes, at half life size (1:2) you lose one stop of light, and two stops at 1:1. You don't get that with supplementary lenses like the Raynox and I think that's a really big advantage meaning you can use hand-held shutter speeds more easily. Especially if your lens has IS (which I think it has if it's the kit lens that came with the 450D). If the Raynox cost £200, all the lens snobs would be raving about it :D

Having said that, you are always running up against longish shutter speeds with macro and a ring-flash should be high on the budget list - Marumi for £100 looks very good value.

Edit: crossed post with Eccles ;)
 
I thought you were a poor student and could not afford all this stuff?


Arthur
 
Well, the flash ring is a better idea than a lens to start with I think, though I have no idea of the efficacy of LED's over xenon (or whatever they use these days) bulbs - maybe someone can help out here.

Arthur
 
The main problem with a 60mm macro is its much harder to use for bugs as you need to be much closer to get the shot - you can pick up a Sigma 105mm macro for approx £220 used, and these are excellent value for money.

The Sigma 50mm has a working distance (from the end of the lens to subject) of 40mm

The Tamron 90mm has a working distance (from the end of the lens to subject) of 99mm

The Sigma 105mm has a working distance (from the end of the lens to subject) of 122mm

The Canon 100mm has a working distance (from the end of the lens to subject) of 150mm

The Canon 100mm doesn't extend, which is a bonus if trying to focus on little critters that may decide to scarper
 

That might just do the trick, if it's bright enough. Not tried one myself. TBH you can't go far wrong for £40. It also needs to be colour corrected for daylight, or at least close to it; it's probably close at least. A custom white balance will get it spot on.

You might have to be careful hanging that off the front of the Raynox (49mm thread, so it will fit) but the spring clip is quite strong. If that's a problem, take the sping clip off the Raynox and mount it securely with a stepping ring for about a fiver.

Worth a try, but it's not the same as a ring flash like the Marumi.
 
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