Macro lenses 105mm v 50mm

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Apache_sim

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Mick
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Can anyone explain the pros and cons of purchasing a 105mm macro over a 50mm macro lens or vice versa. Is it more than just how close you have to be to the subject. I am assuming as both are 1:1 then it must be purely a distance thing... or an I missing the point here.
Sorry if this is a very basic question!

Regards
 
Hello and welcome to the forum!!

Firstly not all Macro's go to 1:1. The Canon 50mm macro (for example) requires a converter to get to 1:1.

A 50mm Macro on a crop body (like a 450D, say) makes a good portrait lens that also is good for close-ups of things like flowers. If you get too close with a short macro lens it can be difficult to light the subject as you are shading it with equipment and yourself - a macro light is useful here.

The advantages of a longer macro are that it gives more working distance which can be useful for photographing jittery bugs etc, and also that the background blur will be more diffuse if you were taking a photograph of a flower for example with other foliage behind. Here is a good example of that. (Scroll down the page to see background blur comparison).

I think the Sigma 150mm Macro is actually a fantastic lens that is really sharp and gives a good working distance at a decent price.

HTH

Phil
 
Thanks for the quick replies... I will knock the 50mm from my list.
The 180 in the link looks good, but I also read that macros are quite good for protraits.
Thinking about a sigma 105 2.8 EX Macro. (head and shoulder protraits).
 
Apache_sim said:
Thanks for the quick replies... I will knock the 50mm from my list.
The 180 in the link looks good, but I also read that macros are quite good for protraits.
Thinking about a sigma 105 2.8 EX Macro. (head and shoulder protraits).
Click to expand...


What camera do you have?

If it is Canon then the 60mm ef-s makes a good portrait & macro lens (albeit with less working distance than a 105mm).

The Sigma 105mm is reportedly very good. Other options are the Tamron 90mm (not tried it myself) and the Canon 100mm Macros. I've used the older non-L version which is great (and also a very good portrait lens if you have enough room to get far enough from the subject).

I've used the Sigma 150mm for portraits, but on a Full Frame camera - working distance for portraits too long for a crop body.

I've heard mixed reports of the 180mm Canon as a general telephoto - some feel it is really best used as a Macro lens.

One last odd-ball to consider in the future is the 65mm MP-E that I currently use. Not had it long, it is great for extreme macro, but no use for general photography (will not focus past a few cm) and is very specialist - a great bug lens. Only think about this when you are more experienced in Macro and have a way of lighting the subject with off-camera flashes.


Phil
 
Glad this information has been covered! I want to invest in a macro lens at some point and this information is just the ticket when I come to purchase a lens.
 
Does that mean that you can 'zoom' in from further away?

One of my eventual aims is to be able to take macro shots of the various bugs I keep here (Tarantulas, Mantids etc) so I've found this really helpful.
Mantids can be quite nervous and some Tarantulas aggressive, so being a good foot away or whatever would help loads.
 
MarcusF said:
Does that mean that you can 'zoom' in from further away?

One of my eventual aims is to be able to take macro shots of the various bugs I keep here (Tarantulas, Mantids etc) so I've found this really helpful.
Mantids can be quite nervous and some Tarantulas aggressive, so being a good foot away or whatever would help loads.
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The word 'zoom' is misleading in this context as we are discussing fixed focus lenses, but in essence a longer focal length allows you to stay further from your subject. 105mm / 150mm / 180mm would be ideal. A long time ago (before I had any macro lenses) I used to shoot tarantulas with a 70-300 zoom (near the long end) to give loads of working distance. I used 'extension tubes' to reduce the minimum focus distance.

Phil
 
So when you say fixed focus does that mean that you have to move closer or further away, rather than zooming in with the lens? I'm being a bit thick here, not sure I get it...sorry :(


Hope I'm not hijacking your thread Apache_sim
 
MarcusF said:
So when you say fixed focus does that mean that you have to move closer or further away, rather than zooming in with the lens? I'm being a bit thick here, not sure I get it...sorry :(


Hope I'm not hijacking your thread Apache_sim
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Exactly that - I know of no macro lenses that zoom, so for a given magnification subject will have to be a fixed distance from the lens. There are some telephoto zooms labelled as 'Macro', but this usually means the simply focus a bit close than you might expect for a zoom - not true macro.

Phil
 
philthejuggler said:
Exactly that - I know of no macro lenses that zoom, so for a given magnification subject will have to be a fixed distance from the lens. There are some telephoto zooms labelled as 'Macro', but this usually means the simply focus a bit close than you might expect for a zoom - not true macro.

Phil
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Ahhh right. Thanks for your patience Phil :thumbs:

So how would you pick out certain parts of, a Tarantula for example? Not wanting a definative guide as I appreciate its not that simple, just trying to get an idea of whats involved.
 
MarcusF said:
Ahhh right. Thanks for your patience Phil :thumbs:

So how would you pick out certain parts of, a Tarantula for example? Not wanting a definative guide as I appreciate its not that simple, just trying to get an idea of whats involved.
Click to expand...


Hmm - crop from the full frame, put extenders on a longer macro to get in even closer, but your working distance will be small-ish or if you are insane use the mp-e 65mm (working distance a couple of cm at maximum mag).

For this sort of work I'd go with a 180mm Macro and be using a ring flash to light the subject.

Phil
 
philthejuggler said:
Hmm - crop from the full frame, put extenders on a longer macro to get in even closer, but your working distance will be small-ish or if you are insane use the mp-e 65mm (working distance a couple of cm at maximum mag).

For this sort of work I'd go with a 180mm Macro and be using a ring flash to light the subject.

Phil
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks again Phil.
 
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