Monopod head for wildlife

Jannyfox

Jannyfox

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Jan
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I've started using a monopod for wildlife photography (mainly birds) as I find it more versatile (and lighter) than the beanbags I used to drag around, however especially in a hide, when I can extend it to the ground and lock it in position with my knees, it needs a head. I want something with friction adjustment so it doesn't flop around, but obviously neither do I want to use it locked up. That would seem to rule out ball heads unless there's one that has friction adjustment that would be suitable. In every other way a ball head would be ideal as it moves all ways, is small and fairly light (weight is an issue for me). The other alternative seems to be a lighter weight video head, but can they be used without the arm attached? What I don't want is a gimbal, as they're too big, too heavy and too expensive. I just want the head attached to the lens foot while I hold and move the camera and lens much like I was handholding it, ie not swinging it around using an arm like you would a spotting scope or camcorder. Hope that makes sense. Anyone use a head on a monopod (or tripod) for birds and can offer any suggestions?
Monopod is a Manfrotto 290. Load to be carried is a Sigma 150-600mm C/Canon 800D, so about 2.5kg.
 
I'm using a RRS MH-01 Monopod head on a Gitzo monopod. Only gives up/down movement but that's all I find I need with the monopod. Tried the Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal but found it too cumbersome on the monopod (fine on a tripod).

I'm using a Nikon D500 and 300mm f/2.8 which is probably a touch heavier than your set up to shoot aviation, both ground and flying.

GC
 
sk66 said:
Sirui L-10 or L-20S.
I use the L-20S in place of a gimbal sometimes withe my ground pod.
Click to expand...

Ah, brilliant. I have to confess I hadn't looked at anything but Manfrotto heads. Is the ball head 'floppy' or can it be tightened so the lens doesn't flop around on its own but can still be moved smoothly?

Edited - ignore the bit about the ball head, I was looking at the K20 not the L20
 
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gcgraphs said:
I'm using a RRS MH-01 Monopod head on a Gitzo monopod. Only gives up/down movement but that's all I find I need with the monopod. Tried the Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal but found it too cumbersome on the monopod (fine on a tripod).

I'm using a Nikon D500 and 300mm f/2.8 which is probably a touch heavier than your set up to shoot aviation, both ground and flying.

GC
Click to expand...

I think possibly in a hide it would be better to have panning movement too for when the monopod jams against something - not a problem outside. I can also only find that on a US retail site (well except fleebay and I'm sorry but.............. ;))
 
Jannyfox said:
Ah, brilliant. I have to confess I hadn't looked at anything but Manfrotto heads. Is the ball head 'floppy' or can it be tightened so the lens doesn't flop around on its own but can still be moved smoothly?
Click to expand...
It can be frictioned down... the only head that holds position while also allowing free movement is a gimbal or a counterweighted pan-tilt type head (FlexShooter, higher end video).
 
FWIW I have the Sirui L-10

I don't use my monopod too regularly so cannot comment in regard friction resistance as may required......but remember it is not a Gimbal, however IMO it is a boon when on the monopod :)
 
Jannyfox said:
I can also only find that on a US retail site (well except fleebay and I'm sorry but.............. ;))
Click to expand...

Understand about the panning constraint in a hide now! If you ever did want RRS stuff, I've normally bought from Photospecialist which is dispatched from stock in the Netherlands.

GC
 
sk66 said:
It can be frictioned down... the only head that holds position while also allowing free movement is a gimbal or a counterweighted pan-tilt type head (FlexShooter, higher end video).
Click to expand...

Box Brownie said:
FWIW I have the Sirui L-10

I don't use my monopod too regularly so cannot comment in regard friction resistance as may required......but remember it is not a Gimbal, however IMO it is a boon when on the monopod :)
Click to expand...

I've never used a gimbal so I wouldn't expect a head to be one. I've only ever used a 3 way head on a tripod and the pan/tilt head on the spotting scope (which has an arm so I don't want anything like that).
The L20S looks a definite contender, thanks
In the hide I'm usually sitting with the monopod leaning against a shelf and held between my knees. Better to have a head that pans even if when I don't need the pan function I just lock it.
 
Jannyfox said:
I've never used a gimbal so I wouldn't expect a head to be one. I've only ever used a 3 way head on a tripod and the pan/tilt head on the spotting scope (which has an arm so I don't want anything like that).
The L20S looks a definite contender, thanks
In the hide I'm usually sitting with the monopod leaning against a shelf and held between my knees. Better to have a head that pans even if when I don't need the pan function I just lock it.
Click to expand...

Oops! my bad I missed that the L-20S had a pan function ;).

I can say that I bought my L-10 based on recommendation and reviews......nicely made kit and not mega pricey :)

PS I bought mine at Speedgraphic in Hampshire, they show the L-20S at £159.95 a few quid less than Amazon.......but what about P&P costs.
 
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If you can find a Sunwayfoto DB-44 that will fit your requirements perfectly, I use it on a monopod and tripod because of the separate friction adjustment.
 
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I use the L-20S on my manfrotto monopod and I think it does the job nicely.

Les :)
 
I'm wavering now between the L20S and something like the Sirui K10X or Benro B1 ball heads (the Sirui looks very like the SunwayFoto one Roger suggested). The ball heads are smaller and lighter, which I find attractive) while still having a more than ample payload.
 
Jannyfox said:
I've never used a gimbal so I wouldn't expect a head to be one. I've only ever used a 3 way head on a tripod and the pan/tilt head on the spotting scope (which has an arm so I don't want anything like that).
The L20S looks a definite contender, thanks
In the hide I'm usually sitting with the monopod leaning against a shelf and held between my knees. Better to have a head that pans even if when I don't need the pan function I just lock it.
Click to expand...
The L-20S is a bit bigger/heavier/more expensive than the L-10, and the L-10 is more than up to the task as long as the monopod is able to rotate on it's foot. But if you actually need/want the panning function...
 
Jannyfox said:
I'm wavering now between the L20S and something like the Sirui K10X or Benro B1 ball heads (the Sirui looks very like the SunwayFoto one Roger suggested). The ball heads are smaller and lighter, which I find attractive) while still having a more than ample payload.
Click to expand...

A thought ~ with a ballhead how much time will be taken up with possible continually tweaking the friction adjustment will you be doing compared to a (most likely) single 'setup' of the likes of the various tilt & pan heads mentioned.......rather than spending the time watching and photographing the wildlife???

IMO ballheads are great for multiplicity of positionings but need to locked down once positioned.
 
Jannyfox said:
I'm wavering now between the L20S and something like the Sirui K10X or Benro B1 ball heads (the Sirui looks very like the SunwayFoto one Roger suggested). The ball heads are smaller and lighter, which I find attractive) while still having a more than ample payload.
Click to expand...
IDU, I thought you wanted to avoid a "floppy ballhead"... any decent ballhead can be frictioned down to not be "sloppy."
The problem with a ballhead on a monopod is that one hand is usually needed to hold the monopod vertical, which leaves you w/ only one hand to control the camera. And the heavier/larger your camera/lens is, the harder it is to keep it from flopping to the side. A pan-tilt head eliminates that issue... gimbal and video heads are really just pan-tilt heads with extra features.
 
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Box Brownie said:
A thought ~ with a ballhead how much time will be taken up with possible continually tweaking the friction adjustment will you be doing compared to a (most likely) single 'setup' of the likes of the various tilt & pan heads mentioned.......rather than spending the time watching and photographing the wildlife???

IMO ballheads are great for multiplicity of positionings but need to locked down once positioned.
Click to expand...
On my DB-44 the friction adjustment needs setting up to begin with but afterwards just performs much like a gimbal ... I only adjust it when I'm moving on. :)
 
sk66 said:
one hand is usually needed to hold the monopod vertical, which leaves you w/ only one hand to control the camera.
Click to expand...
I've been doing it wrong all this time. ;)
 
Box Brownie said:
A thought ~ with a ballhead how much time will be taken up with possible continually tweaking the friction adjustment will you be doing compared to a (most likely) single 'setup' of the likes of the various tilt & pan heads mentioned.......rather than spending the time watching and photographing the wildlife???

IMO ballheads are great for multiplicity of positionings but need to locked down once positioned.
Click to expand...

sk66 said:
IDU, I thought you wanted to avoid a "floppy ballhead"... any decent ballhead can be frictioned down to not be "sloppy."
The problem with a ballhead on a monopod is that one hand is usually needed to hold the monopod vertical, which leaves you w/ only one hand to control the camera. And the heavier/larger your camera/lens is, the harder it is to keep it from flopping to the side. A pan-tilt head eliminates that issue... gimbal and video heads are just pan-tilt heads with extra features.
Click to expand...

gramps said:
On my DB-44 the friction adjustment needs setting up to begin with but afterwards just performs much like a gimbal ... I only adjust it when I'm moving on. :)
Click to expand...

All good points to consider. I don't think I ever hold the monopod either, especially not in a hide. A hand under the lens and the other on the camera and the pod isn't going anywhere. It might if I tried BIF with it but I think that's easier hand held (that's the other thing I can't do at the moment - drop the monopod off quickly). I need to sleep on this one and come back to it and think on it some more before committing.
Thanks all. It's all been extremely helpful.
 
gramps said:
On my DB-44 the friction adjustment needs setting up to begin with but afterwards just performs much like a gimbal ... I only adjust it when I'm moving on. :)
Click to expand...

I stand corrected (based on that head?) but mono/tripod heads are a bit like camera bags, as in ones persons choice can only be a guide ;)

PS as Jan's lens has a collar that will also aid in use rapid slight changes to angle & orientation when used with a pan&tilt head compared to a ball head???
 
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Box Brownie said:
PS as Jenny's lens has a collar that will also aid in use rapid slight changes to angle & orientation when used with a pan&tilt head compared to a ball head???
Click to expand...

I've only used mine with long lenses, Nikon 500 f4 & 200-500 f5.6 and currently Sigma 150-600 Sport, all having tripod collar/foot.
(PS it's Jan :) ).
 
I've been using a Manfrotto 234RC tilt head for years it moves in just one plane so doesn't flop, I never felt the need for a panning head on a monopod.
 
gramps said:
I've only used mine with long lenses, Nikon 500 f4 & 200-500 f5.6 and currently Sigma 150-600 Sport, all having tripod collar/foot.
(PS it's Jan :) ).
Click to expand...

:)

PS drat......I think auto correct tripped me up....goes off to correct it ;)
 
old bloke said:
I've been using a Manfrotto 234RC tilt head for years it moves in just one plane so doesn't flop, I never felt the need for a panning head on a monopod.
Click to expand...

IMO s decent choice if you are already using that version of Manfrotto QR plate..though it lacks the pan function that Jan mentioned....but I switched to Arca Swiss a while back ;)
 
A quick update. For better or worse and after having a good hard think I've gone for the Benro G2 ball head - chosen over the Benro B1 because I think having the friction/drag adjustment within the lock knob will be safer than a separate knob that could be moved accidentally, and over the Sirui K because the friction adjustment is larger and should be easier for me to use, and the ball is larger and it just looks a robust bit of kit. It is also the most expensive of all the options (gulp........). In a few days I will find out if I made the right choice.
Thanks again for the the input, guys - it really got me thinking in the right direction.
 
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