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Ok, I am a 1 week old noob at flash and need to ask a question, so be patient!
Did a rally last weekend and used my shiny new flash a fair bit and discovered how this freezes the action - in particular wheels and thats a no-no in motorsport togging.
The problem I believe is actually the duration of the flash burst itself - I've read its very fast and I guess when there is little or no other light present regardless of the camera's shutter speed, the light was only there for a stupidly short time, hence the action freeze.
Have I got this right?
Would moving up to hi-speed sync (FP) mode which uses pulses of light rather than a single flash help? Unless this overall duration was more than about 1/125th or 1/250th at the most, it probably won't make much odds though.
I was using rear curtain sync (obviously not with FP...), is there a better bet than this?
Another idea today was to use a slow shutter with a series of repeated flashes - which should light the subject and allow the wheels to be in different places with each burst.
Anyone got any tried and tested ideas?
I am off to shoot a night race this weekend and would rather not just have frozen cars. Failing such a solution I'll just try some whacky stuff instead
Did a rally last weekend and used my shiny new flash a fair bit and discovered how this freezes the action - in particular wheels and thats a no-no in motorsport togging.
The problem I believe is actually the duration of the flash burst itself - I've read its very fast and I guess when there is little or no other light present regardless of the camera's shutter speed, the light was only there for a stupidly short time, hence the action freeze.
Have I got this right?
Would moving up to hi-speed sync (FP) mode which uses pulses of light rather than a single flash help? Unless this overall duration was more than about 1/125th or 1/250th at the most, it probably won't make much odds though.
I was using rear curtain sync (obviously not with FP...), is there a better bet than this?
Another idea today was to use a slow shutter with a series of repeated flashes - which should light the subject and allow the wheels to be in different places with each burst.
Anyone got any tried and tested ideas?
I am off to shoot a night race this weekend and would rather not just have frozen cars. Failing such a solution I'll just try some whacky stuff instead