ND Filter advice

T

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Tony
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Hi All,

I have an outdoors photography job to do in two weeks time, usually only shoot indoors where more light is often required! Thinking a ND filter will be needed to help drop the strong light down so I can have a bit more choice over my settings!

Never had or used one before, so in need of some advise!!

I can see variable and fixed, anything I should be aware of (variable is attracting me more as it seems simpler to use at events)?
Any makes better than others (I can't see me using it often so don't want to spend a fortune).

I will be using it on my 24-70 L f2.8 ii (82mm) and would also like to use it on the 70-200 f2.8 L ii (77mm) and assume I can get a step down adapter? Will only ever see me using one lens at a time!

Thank you in advance for any help/advice/warnings you can send my way!

T
 
I thought variable NDs were mainly for video work. They are basically 2 CPL filters.

I would just get an 82mm 3 stop ND filter and a step down ring.
 
Lee Filters are considered by most to be about the best without breaking the bank:

Lee Filters

They often come up for sale on here if you're in no rush.

I'm afraid I have no experience of variable, but I do have a collection of the Lee fixed ones and I think they're great.
 
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I'm assuming you're using a camera where the shutter speed is limited to 1/4000 or 1/8000? I used to find this a PITA, not only can if be a faff but you spend all that money on really nice lenses only to put a filter on it which can reduce IQ unless you buy and expensive one. Also, they can introduce colour cast, even the 3 stop ones although this can be removed in post or fixed at the time by using a custom WB.

So on to the question in hand, I used to buy one filter and use stop down rings but this meant on the lens you're using the step up rings for you can't often get the lens hood on so I just get different sized filters now. I stay clear of the variable ones (y)
 
If you want a screw in one I'd go for one of the Hoya Pro HD's.

No colour cast as far as I can tell. Even the 10 stop ones.
 
No experience myself but reviews on the K&F magnetic filters seem good. If you use Amazon could try and if no good return it.
 
GreenNinja67 said:
If you want a screw in one I'd go for one of the Hoya Pro HD's.

No colour cast as far as I can tell. Even the 10 stop ones.
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I don’t think you can get HD ND filters anymore, only UV and polifilters, I’m not sure what the equivalent ND is now. I have various Hoya Pro series filters and they are pretty good, although I favour Firecrest these days. I do have a B&W too which is good too, but that’s only a two stop so wouldn’t expect any cast with that (y)
 
Sounds like the easiest option would be a 3 stop ND filter in 77mm and 82mm. That’s of course if you want to carry on using the lens hood. If not then 82mm 3 stop ND and a step up adapter so you can use it on the 77mm lens too.

I was a big fan of Lee filters but found it all bit of a faff and didn’t like the lack of lens hood. They were vey good though.

About a year ago I picked up a set of Kase magnetic filters on here. I’ve liked their ease of use especially the magnetic lens cap which has replace the manufacturers lens cap. I’m lucky in that my lenses are all 77mm though I only use them on the 24-105 and 70-200 so one set does everything and I can still use lens hoods.

I’m surprised manufacturers don’t think about filter diameter more. It’s not helpful lenses that would likely be used as a pair or part of a trio have different filter diameters. One of the reason I went with canons RF f4 lenses was because the 14-35, 24-105 and 70-200 f4s all have 77mm filter diameters. It makes things easier when looking at magnetic filters.
 
snerkler said:
I don’t think you can get HD ND filters anymore, only UV and polifilters, I’m not sure what the equivalent ND is now. I have various Hoya Pro series filters and they are pretty good, although I favour Firecrest these days. I do have a B&W too which is good too, but that’s only a two stop so wouldn’t expect any cast with that (y)
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Cheers Toby,

I meant Pro ND but memory lapsed there.
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Cheers Toby,

I meant Pro ND but memory lapsed there.
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You’ve got me thinking now, I thought they did ND’s in the HD series in the past but maybe it’s my memory that’s a bit foggy (not unusual ;)). It’s hard to keep track with Hoya, I used to think the revo series were good but I don’t think you can get them at all now, at least not on their site.

I do sometimes wonder if cast is more apparent on certain cameras due to the way they interpret the WB :thinking:
 
I find the hoya ones a pain to clean, the K&F magnetic have some good feedback and if the glass cleans as well as thier sqaure filters then they are a bargain.
Freewell is another option im told are as reliable as you get an adaptor ring with every filter and not much if any more money.
Having used screw on they are a pain if you need to keep removing them to focus - I found focusing accurately through a 10 stop iffy and 16 stop forget it.
 
AgentOrange76 said:
Having used screw on they are a pain if you need to keep removing them to focus - I found focusing accurately through a 10 stop iffy and 16 stop forget it.
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That’s one thing I like about the magnetic filter filters. It’s just so easy to take off and put on a different filter. Having magnetic lens end caps is a nice touch too and being able to still use the lens hood if you aren’t using a step up ring.

The small pouch of the 77mm Kase filter kit carries a polariser, 3-6-10 stop NDs and a 3 stop grad ND. Magnetic Adapters and end caps stay on each lens. The pouch is so small compared to the Lee square system I also have (that’s now not being used which I really need to sell now it’s not being used). The magnetic system really goes well with my downsizing/reduction push last year.

I just need to decide if I’m going to get the Kase UV filter as the adapter for my 100-500. That would be nice for protection but I don’t need it all the time. I just don’t want to buy both a magnetic adapter and the UV adapter as that’s a faff changing between them all the time.
 
rob-nikon said:
That’s one thing I like about the magnetic filter filters. It’s just so easy to take off and put on a different filter. Having magnetic lens end caps is a nice touch too and being able to still use the lens hood if you aren’t using a step up ring.

The small pouch of the 77mm Kase filter kit carries a polariser, 3-6-10 stop NDs and a 3 stop grad ND. Magnetic Adapters and end caps stay on each lens. The pouch is so small compared to the Lee square system I also have (that’s now not being used which I really need to sell now it’s not being used). The magnetic system really goes well with my downsizing/reduction push last year.

I just need to decide if I’m going to get the Kase UV filter as the adapter for my 100-500. That would be nice for protection but I don’t need it all the time. I just don’t want to buy both a magnetic adapter and the UV adapter as that’s a faff changing between them all the time.
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The magnetic thing sounds good, I’ve got the firecrest system which clips on and off but with my sausage fingers it can still be a bit fiddly.
 
So you are going to shoot at f1.2 if you require any... Even these don't need that much. I never had a situation where I needed one to actually take a shot

In fact anything beyond 3-4 stops will considerably affect colour balance, vignette and possibly even sharpness. Use at your own peril
 
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LongLensPhotography said:
So you are going to shoot at f1.2 if you require any... Even these don't need that much. I never had a situation where I needed one to actually take a shot

In fact anything beyond 3-4 stops will considerably affect colour balance, vignette and possibly even sharpness. Use at your own peril
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Hmm, not sure about that tbh. If you're still using a DSLR or mirrorless with mechanical shutter then you're limited to 1/4000 or 1/8000 shutter. Yesterday I was shooting at f1.8 and the shutter speed was 1/10000, at f1.4 and f1.2 you're going to be well outside the scope of max mechanical shutter speed. And that's in the UK, on holiday I've been at shutter speeds of 1/16000 at f1.8.
 
snerkler said:
Hmm, not sure about that tbh. If you're still using a DSLR or mirrorless with mechanical shutter then you're limited to 1/4000 or 1/8000 shutter. Yesterday I was shooting at f1.8 and the shutter speed was 1/10000, at f1.4 and f1.2 you're going to be well outside the scope of max mechanical shutter speed. And that's in the UK, on holiday I've been at shutter speeds of 1/16000 at f1.8.
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Why you would want to shoot architecture at these settings is well and truly beyond me.... And if it's a portrait you are after you would better have ad1200 pro with hss and Nd on top...
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Why you would want to shoot architecture at these settings is well and truly beyond me.... And if it's a portrait you are after you would better have ad1200 pro with hss and Nd on top...
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Who said anything about shooting architecture? :thinking:
 
LongLensPhotography said:
True, but who said anything about f1.4 or 1.8... Op's lenses max out at 'measly' f/2.8
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True, but I was referring directly to your post where you said about shooting at f1.2 (y)
 
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