Beginner ND filters with no colour cast?

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I am looking for ND filters (preferably reasonably priced) with no colour cast. I am kinda sick of fiddling with it in PP. I have got the point where I rather blend a million exposures than tinker forever with colours and still not be happy with them! (my OCD kinda gets the better of me)
But I am hoping there is simple easier fix in buying a good filter.
I'd be looking at a 3stop and a 9/10stops screw on filter. Not interested in square filters (thinks don't go very well for me with those!).

Any advice, experience and example would be much appreciated.
 
I have a 72mm Formatt Hitech Firecrest screw in up in the classifieds just now. Brilliant ten stopper with no cast to my eye anyway.

Only selling as I'm moving to a 'faffier' set up, something I swore I'd never do! Incidentally, the new setup is also Formatt Hitech so hopefully a good indication of what I think of their products.
 
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I have a 72mm Formatt Hitech Firecrest screw in up in the classifieds just now. Brilliant ten stopper with no cast to my eye anyway.

Only selling as I'm moving to a 'faffier' set up, something I swore I'd never do! Incidentally, the new setup is also Formatt Hitech so hopefully a good indication of what I think of their products.

I did notice....
A 67mm would have been better but I can make a 72mm work too.

But the price was a little bit on the higher side for me.
 
I use a NISI nd3 (10 stop) no colour cast . excellent filter but i am afraid they are not cheap. I did use Hi Tech filters but now only the NISI
 
I did notice....
A 67mm would have been better but I can make a 72mm work too.

But the price was a little bit on the higher side for me.
I could knock a tenner off having reviewed the price but no more tbh.

As the latest poster says, they're not cheap but a good quality filter is worth it imo.
 
Have you tried setting a custom, white balance. Put the filter on the lens, take a picture of a white sheet of paper, and then use that image to set the white balance.
I always did that for IR photography don't know why I didn't think of this in the first place :facepalm:
I'll give that a go now actually. Cheers.
Should be able to retrospectively correct images too with a reference image since they are all RAW. Let me give that go.
 
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Should be able to retrospectively correct images too with a reference image since they are all RAW.

It doesn't work like that. The CWB is recorded using the same light temperature as the image and it's unlikely that this will be the case unless you're only using an artificial light source.

Bob
 
It doesn't work like that. The CWB is recorded using the same light temperature as the image and it's unlikely that this will be the case unless you're only using an artificial light source.
Bob

That's true. No all natural light.
But I can get a reference shot, and try to get a good approximation. TBH it's going to realms of being a faff again because I need to get various references etc which is why I am looking for better filter for a long run.

Search for good filter is still on this is something I'll try in the meantime.
 
I could knock a tenner off having reviewed the price but no more tbh.

As the latest poster says, they're not cheap but a good quality filter is worth it imo.
Not looking for cheap but value for money I guess. not that I am saying your price is bad I just don't know much about that brand yet. I'll do some reading tonight :)
 
Buy an affordable ND filter along with an X-Rite ColorChecker Board. Useful for any occasion. Super easy way of correcting for any colour cast. Doubles as a talking point at awkward cocktail parties.
 
Buy an affordable ND filter along with an X-Rite ColorChecker Board. Useful for any occasion. Super easy way of correcting for any colour cast. Doubles as a talking point at awkward cocktail parties.
I already have an affordable ND filter. This could be a solution but still sounds like bit if a faff since I will need several reference images for changing light as mentioned above. Though I suppose it's simple enough to just set custom white balance and work from there.
 
Also I hear the colour cast changes/increases with the exposure time, is this true?
 
Also I hear the colour cast changes/increases with the exposure time, is this true?
I guess if there is a cast then conceivably it could be stronger, though a quality filter wouldn't have that issue. If you can't feel with a cast, spend a little more imo - you wouldn't lose much when selling on either if you buy wisely.
 
I guess if there is a cast then conceivably it could be stronger, though a quality filter wouldn't have that issue. If you can't feel with a cast, spend a little more imo - you wouldn't lose much when selling on either if you buy wisely.
Yes I figured as much. Looks like formatt hitech firecrest are rather very good. I am still debating if I should buy a 72mm or get a 67mm. 3 of my lens are 67mm but my widest 15mm lens is 72mm. A step down ring seems to work well enough with almost no vignetting, I expect there'll be even less vignetting with a better filter.
 
I have been looking into these recently, not made any decisions yet myself as I don't know whether it is something I will really make much use of so still toying with what I want to pay. But I have notice that Breakthrough filters are getting a lot of good reviews.
 
Yes I figured as much. Looks like formatt hitech firecrest are rather very good. I am still debating if I should buy a 72mm or get a 67mm. 3 of my lens are 67mm but my widest 15mm lens is 72mm. A step down ring seems to work well enough with almost no vignetting, I expect there'll be even less vignetting with a better filter.

I have a set of Firecrest 72mm screw ins (3, 6, 10, 13, 16 stop) use them on 58/62/67mm thread lenses. I have separate step rings for each one (ie 58-72, 62-72 and 67-72). This allows me to use the Hitech 85mm grads on the front without vignetting, creating a tower of step rings 58-62/62-67/67-72 leads to vignetting)

I've not tried any of the new ultra ones, but am happy with the regular Firecrest. BTW my most used filters are 6 stop and 13 stop - 13 is very useful in the summer.
 
I have a set of Firecrest 72mm screw ins (3, 6, 10, 13, 16 stop) use them on 58/62/67mm thread lenses. I have separate step rings for each one (ie 58-72, 62-72 and 67-72). This allows me to use the Hitech 85mm grads on the front without vignetting, creating a tower of step rings 58-62/62-67/67-72 leads to vignetting)

I've not tried any of the new ultra ones, but am happy with the regular Firecrest. BTW my most used filters are 6 stop and 13 stop - 13 is very useful in the summer.

I don't need many step rings since they are all 67mm and one 72mm which seems to work with a step down ring from 67mm. Infact if I just leave the step down ring on the lens it'll behave like a 67mm.

I have a 3 stop and 10 stop I can stack for 13stops but I rarely do that TBH. I use the 10 stops the most. I don't mind stopping down to f16 if needed sometimes.

Also I don't mind blending multiple exposures in post if I need more than 10 stops to get a similar result.
 
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Hoya ProND have been great for me. I only use the ND4 & ND16 but I've never had any issues when using them.
 
Hoya ProND have been great for me. I only use the ND4 & ND16 but I've never had any issues when using them.

These are good. And so are BW. They only get crap once you go far the really dark ones.
 
Hoya ProND have been great for me. I only use the ND4 & ND16 but I've never had any issues when using them.
These are good. And so are BW. They only get crap once you go far the really dark ones.
I have less issues with the 3 stop one compared to 10 stops.
@LongLensPhotography - don't you use any 10 stop or such dark filters? I have read your opinions on other threads about using software but getting a long exposure this way takes quite a lot of images...
 
I have less issues with the 3 stop one compared to 10 stops.
@LongLensPhotography - don't you use any 10 stop or such dark filters? I have read your opinions on other threads about using software but getting a long exposure this way takes quite a lot of images...

I have a 9 stop from Hoya. I use it when I absolutely have to, which is maybe twice a year. It does something weird to reds and oranges even after all corrections. It's fine for images dominated by cooler tones or BW conversions. I'd be very happy to replace it with something more "neutral".

You can use software and yes it would take you a combined total exposure length across a nice number of frames... until there is a good way to extrapolate and average out in some very clever way. Which is why I don't like to do it and I actually prefer shorter exposures in a range of a couple seconds anyway. I just normally blend different photo parts (i.e. sky + foreground).
 
I have a 9 stop from Hoya. I use it when I absolutely have to, which is maybe twice a year. It does something weird to reds and oranges even after all corrections. It's fine for images dominated by cooler tones or BW conversions. I'd be very happy to replace it with something more "neutral".

You can use software and yes it would take you a combined total exposure length across a nice number of frames... until there is a good way to extrapolate and average out in some very clever way. Which is why I don't like to do it and I actually prefer shorter exposures in a range of a couple seconds anyway. I just normally blend different photo parts (i.e. sky + foreground).

well even for blending just parts (sky, foreground, water, etc) you will need the huge number of pictures to get the 10stops effect. If my math is correct you will need 1024 pictures to get equivalent of 10 stop effect. Sony camera used to have nice app that I used that gave a blend of up to 256 pictures (8 stops) in camera. But annoyingly they've removed that and I am reliant on filters now.
 
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well even for blending just parts (sky, foreground, water, etc) you will need the huge number of pictures to get the 10stops effect. If my math is correct you will need 1024 pictures to get equivalent of 10 stop effect. Sony camera used to have nice app that I used that gave a blend of up to 256 pictures (8 stops) in camera. But annoyingly they've removed that and I am reliant on filters now.

Well that's a good thing I don't want 10 stop effect :)
 
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