New adventures with Ektachrome E100

mkhardy

mkhardy

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Matthew
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Took five attempts, but I finally managed to properly expose a sheet of Ektachrome E100 :banana:

52854080445_a38c3a7c99_k.jpg

Kodak Ektachrome E100
Nikkor-SW 90mm f/4.5
 
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Well done. However your ppl,oaded image isn't displaying, maybe it is too big? Limits on TP are 1024px on the longest side, max file size 500kb
 
Had to abandon my incident meter and use a DSLR to nail the exposure :sorry:

Not enough exposure and it turns into blue-blocked-up-meh...

Too much exposure and it turns into flat-grainy-wash-out...
 
I really like that.
 
5 sheets! this is why I wont buy it yet, plenty of bnw to burn through first, did you dev yourself?
 
acrobatic_Citron said:
5 sheets! this is why I wont buy it yet, plenty of bnw to burn through first, did you dev yourself?
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Developed at home with BELLINI E6 Kit (6 bath process), in a Paterson Orbital.

It was my first time with slide film, and E6 process, so there were a few exposure/development issues that needed addressing. So now I know what to do, hopefully it should be more reliable...
 
Nicely done Mike, and nice picture too.

My first ever film dev was E6, and my first prints were made in a Paterson orbital (cibachrome). It must be a huge challenge now.
 
Well worth a bit of trial and error.
 
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mkhardy said:
in a Paterson Orbital.
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Does it hold the temp well? or do you have the oribital sitting in a water bath? I tested the jobo 3010 the other day on a beseler colour base for potential colour/slide but the temp drop was massive even with a pre rinse, looking over at the LFP forum it might work it a stick the tank in a water bath and let it get up to temp
 
acrobatic_Citron said:
Does it hold the temp well? or do you have the oribital sitting in a water bath? I tested the jobo 3010 the other day on a beseler colour base for potential colour/slide but the temp drop was massive even with a pre rinse, looking over at the LFP forum it might work it a stick the tank in a water bath and let it get up to temp
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The Orbital was floated in a bath of water kept at 39 degrees with a sous-vide. The chemicals lose 0.6 degrees whilst getting poured in, so waited until they were 38.6 degrees before starting development.

Two pre-rinses (2 minutes each) before first dev with the 39-degree water.

The big anomaly was the film curling up at the corners when transferring from the holders to the Orbital (B&W film never did this). Maybe it was the change in temperature? This led to uneven development in the corners. The fix was to agitate during pre-rinse to make sure the entire film was soaked in warm water and laid flat.
 
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Plain Nev said:
Well worth a bit of trial and error.
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Yes, everything seems sorted now (fingers crossed).

Have been back to Richmond Lock again with a stronger grad filter (3-stop soft), measured the exposure with a DSLR using the same polarizer and grad, and got a more even exposure. The histogram from the scan was very close to the histogram from the DSLR. Shall dig them out and post them here...
 
20 min walk from my house, not the easiest object to photograph, very light dependent. Very nice image.

Guess, you won't be able to afford to eat now after 5 sheets of E100? :exit:
 
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