Newbie feeling very deflated focussing issues

Just as Both myself and Craig have said a newspaper pinned to a flat surface is a good test

Les
 
It does actually sharpen up slightly in Photoshop

Now photoshop is another thing .......! ;) ;) (but I'm pretty computer literate so I'm sure I'll get there... eventually...!) Do you mind me asking how you did that? I was at pains to be told that you cannot fix an out of focus photo!


 
Suggesting his hands and nose were in focus- f1.8 has a very unforgiving depth of field lol:)
 
I have Photoshop CS 5 - may I ask what Image software you have?
 
I have Photoshop CS 5 - may I ask what Image software you have?
Well to be honest ive never used any software on my photos yet. But I do have a very old cs2 version and elements on my computer don't know whether either are suitable?
 
Ok here goes- open the image- select Layer - duplicate layer- Background copy - select Quick selection tool- draw around the subject- then drop down the filter menu and select sharpen smart sharpen or unsharp mask - adjust the sharpness to suit

hey presto all done
 
Ok here goes- open the image- select Layer - duplicate layer- Background copy - select Quick selection tool- draw around the subject- then drop down the filter menu and select sharpen smart sharpen or unsharp mask - adjust the sharpness to suit

hey presto all done
Brill I will try this!! Thanks everyone for your help it's been great. Going to take the lens out with the baby this afternoon and try, try, try again!!
 
Brill I will try this!! Thanks everyone for your help it's been great. Going to take the lens out with the baby this afternoon and try, try, try again!!

My pleasure Katie, glad I could help - look forward to seeing the next batch- don't be afraid to stop the lens down to f5.6 or even f8 and work you way up from there

as said f18 is a nightmare and I shoot at f1.4 and it's not easy believe me

Good luck

Les :)
 
I've only just started back button focussing. Do I need to hold this down when recomposing? I'm not sure I recompossed these shots to be honest but I may have done
yes yes yes this is your "user error"
No...
If you hold the button while recomposing the focus *will* shift.
 
No...
If you hold the button while recomposing the focus *will* shift.

Only if the camera is set to AF-C, if it's set to AF-S it will make the initial focus and stay there as long as the BBF is pressed, only when the BBF is released will it re-focus on press :)
 
Surely that will only happen if you've got AF set to continuous? If you have it on single shot AF, the back button will lock focus then that will stay until you press the back button again wherever you recompose.

Edit - It's been a while since I shot Canon but I didn't think you'd need to keep the BBF button pressed to retain focus? On the first press, the camera locks focus on the point you choose then stays there or are we saying the same thing?
 
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Only if the camera is set to AF-C, if it's set to AF-S it will make the initial focus and stay there as long as the BBF is pressed, only when the BBF is released will it re-focus on press :)
Ah, I only ever use it with AF-C... I don't really see the point otherwise as it's only acting like the default AF-L behavior, or the default shutter half press in AF-S.

Katie, there is another peculiarity of wide aperture lenses (wider then ~ f/2.8)... there is actually less DOF and less in focus than it looks like thru the viewfinder.
 
Edit - It's been a while since I shot Canon but I didn't think you'd need to keep the BBF button pressed to retain focus? On the first press, the camera locks focus on the point you choose then stays there or are we saying the same thing?
It sounds to me like it depends on the shutter release setting when in AF-S. If focus is set to BB only then you should be able to release the BB. If focus is set to both the BB and the shutter then you would need to hold the BB.

Still don't see the point...
 
Only if the camera is set to AF-C, if it's set to AF-S it will make the initial focus and stay there as long as the BBF is pressed, only when the BBF is released will it re-focus on press :)

Actually yes, this. And if it's set to one shot.
 
BBF does exactly what the trigger does when half pressed. It does a one-shot focus or servo whichever is selected. If it's one-shot then you need to re-press the button each time to refocus, if it it's servo then it will continue to focus whilst depressed. The advantage of BBF is that you do not have to re-focus if you remove your finger form the button before taking the shot. It might not suit everyone (and is not available on all models) but personally I couldn't work without it now for action sports shots. Also related of course is exposure lock, but that's another day. Sorry if I diverted the thread.
 
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The advantage of BBF is that you do not have to re-focus if you remove your finger form the button before taking the shot.
Kind of... IMO the advantage is that it gives you options.
If the camera is set to continuous AF *and* AF activation is only enabled on the BB, then it gives you immediate access to all AF behaviors.
Don't press- MF
Press/release- AF-S/One-shot
Press/hold- AF-C/AI

Then there is the question of metering/exposure-lock if using focus/recompose...
(many Canons have more options as to how you set up BBF)
 
Can you post them on Flickr so we can see them in the thread?
 
Ok so I had a bit of a practice yesterday - now taking much more notice of where I am focussing. I *think* they are better? The eyes seem to be clear?? But PLEASE tell me if not!!! I know the photos are artistically rubbish but I have to practice when I can ;)
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/2.14645/
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/3.14646/
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/4.14647/

These links link to threads over 10 years old, nothing to do with this?

I've no idea what you're doing here!
 
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they all go to your gallery when i clock on the TP links

edit - much better, Katie :woot:
 
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they all go to your gallery when i clock on the TP links

edit - much better, Katie :woot:

If I click on them it goes to a thread from 2006, one about tripods, lol!

I'm clicking from the TP app, maybe it's that?

Or I get this?

View attachment 74113
 
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weird - mine does the same via the app but its ok on my laptop
 
I'm having focussing issues with my 50mm 1.8. I bought it on recommendation for my canon 1100d for taking pics of the kids. It just won't focus correctly and all my 'lovely' photos are ending up blurry. I'm using back button focus and focussing on the eyes but the face is all blurry. This was taken at 2.0 ss 1/1000 ish ISO 125. The same happens at different af (tried 4.0). I've been told it may be lens calibration but there are no micro adjustments on this model. I'm not sure how to add a pic here

Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I've only skimmed the thread. But is this lens the Canon 50mm f/1.8 MkII? The plastic fantastic thing? If so, focus accuracy is inconsistent at the best of times - it's frankly useless - I don't know why it gets recommended so often, or why I bought one for that matter!

Simple test - camera, tripod, and a subject like that corner of a wall posted earlier, so you can see the plane of sharpness and the out of focus areas in front and behind. Focus and take a shot. Then without moving anything, press the AF button again to make the camera re-focus and take another shot. Do this a few times, and then compare - just zoom in on the LCD. Pound to a penny the point of sharpest focus will have shifted slightly and if so that could well be the problem, or at least part of it. If all pics are identical, as they should be, then you're lucky!

The new Canon 50/1.8 STM version is a WAY better lens in every respect.
 
Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I've only skimmed the thread. But is this lens the Canon 50mm f/1.8 MkII? The plastic fantastic thing? If so, focus accuracy is inconsistent at the best of times - it's frankly useless - I don't know why it gets recommended so often, or why I bought one for that matter!

Simple test - camera, tripod, and a subject like that corner of a wall posted earlier, so you can see the plane of sharpness and the out of focus areas in front and behind. Focus and take a shot. Then without moving anything, press the AF button again to make the camera re-focus and take another shot. Do this a few times, and then compare - just zoom in on the LCD. Pound to a penny the point of sharpest focus will have shifted slightly and if so that could well be the problem, or at least part of it. If all pics are identical, as they should be, then you're lucky!

The new Canon 50/1.8 STM version is a WAY better lens in every respect.

I don't know, I rather like my nifty fifty :)

8th July 15 by -Odd Jim-

Completely agree about the hit and miss focusing though.
 
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I’ve FINALLY found a spare few seconds to carry out what @CraigDHD helpfully suggested above.

First photo is in live mode at 1.8 (well focussed), the next using the view finder at 1.8 and you can see the problem. Obviously a problem between the lens and af system. I’ve taken various photos using the view finder at apertures from 1.8 to 4 and the widest aperture I seem to be able to focus correctly at using the view finder is 3.2. Not great when I specifically chose this lens for the wide aperture! My 1100d entry level canon doesn’t allow fine tuning so am I stuck with only ever using 3.2 at the widest?!


Also I haven’t had chance to try out my other lens (just the kit lens) but is it likely there will be a problem with this as well? Feeling very disappointed!

I’m confused why it seems to catch focus sometimes (a couple of the pictrues I’ve taken above) but obviously not most of the time – assuming this is just ‘luck’ with me actually being off focus eventually rendering it in focus because of these problems?!

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/69.14677/

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/70.14678/
 
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I’ve FINALLY found a spare few seconds to carry out what @CraigDHD helpfully suggested above.

First photo is in live mode at 1.8 (well focussed), the next using the view finder at 1.8 and you can see the problem. Obviously a problem between the lens and af system. I’ve taken various photos using the view finder at apertures from 1.8 to 4 and the widest aperture I seem to be able to focus correctly at using the view finder is 3.2. Not great when I specifically chose this lens for the wide aperture! My 1100d entry level canon doesn’t allow fine tuning so am I stuck with only ever using 3.2 at the widest?!


Also I haven’t had chance to try out my other lens (just the kit lens) but is it likely there will be a problem with this as well? Feeling very disappointed!

I’m confused why it seems to catch focus sometimes (a couple of the pictrues I’ve taken above) but obviously not most of the time – assuming this is just ‘luck’ with me actually being off focus eventually rendering it in focus because of these problems?!

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/69.14677/

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/70.14678/

If you can't focus properly at f/1.8 I'd suggest taking the lens back. F/1.8 it's difficult to focus as the depth of field is so slight, but used correctly the focused area should still be sharp.
 
Sounds to me like your trying to run before you can walk young lady ,switch off back button focus ,go back to shutter button focus and shoot ,set your camera to single shot ,aperture f8 make sure your shutter speed is above 1/500th sec ,use single point focus .and RTFM a few times till you get it right .a trip to spec savers also sounds on the cards
 
Sounds to me like your trying to run before you can walk young lady ,switch off back button focus ,go back to shutter button focus and shoot ,set your camera to single shot ,aperture f8 make sure your shutter speed is above 1/500th sec ,use single point focus .and RTFM a few times till you get it right .a trip to spec savers also sounds on the cards
That'll be her scared off for good then....
 
I’ve FINALLY found a spare few seconds to carry out what @CraigDHD helpfully suggested above.

First photo is in live mode at 1.8 (well focussed), the next using the view finder at 1.8 and you can see the problem. Obviously a problem between the lens and af system. I’ve taken various photos using the view finder at apertures from 1.8 to 4 and the widest aperture I seem to be able to focus correctly at using the view finder is 3.2. Not great when I specifically chose this lens for the wide aperture! My 1100d entry level canon doesn’t allow fine tuning so am I stuck with only ever using 3.2 at the widest?!


Also I haven’t had chance to try out my other lens (just the kit lens) but is it likely there will be a problem with this as well? Feeling very disappointed!

I’m confused why it seems to catch focus sometimes (a couple of the pictrues I’ve taken above) but obviously not most of the time – assuming this is just ‘luck’ with me actually being off focus eventually rendering it in focus because of these problems?!

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/69.14677/

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/70.14678/

Assuming your technique is all OK, then it does sound like the lens and camera aren't in tune. Liveview will always prove whether a lens *can* focus properly, but of course that is a lot slower on your camera. The other thing to remember is that the standard viewfinder on your camera won't show you the real depth of field at f/1.8, it only works from f/2.8 or something similar. As a consequence, if the AF point is not in the perfect position, you may not even be aware that your subject is not properly in focus. This is where mirrorless cameras come into their own - what you see in the viewfinder is what you get!
 
Sounds to me like your trying to run before you can walk young lady ,switch off back button focus ,go back to shutter button focus and shoot ,set your camera to single shot ,aperture f8 make sure your shutter speed is above 1/500th sec ,use single point focus .and RTFM a few times till you get it right .a trip to spec savers also sounds on the cards

Out of order.
 
I’ve FINALLY found a spare few seconds to carry out what @CraigDHD helpfully suggested above.

First photo is in live mode at 1.8 (well focussed), the next using the view finder at 1.8 and you can see the problem. Obviously a problem between the lens and af system. I’ve taken various photos using the view finder at apertures from 1.8 to 4 and the widest aperture I seem to be able to focus correctly at using the view finder is 3.2. Not great when I specifically chose this lens for the wide aperture! My 1100d entry level canon doesn’t allow fine tuning so am I stuck with only ever using 3.2 at the widest?!


Also I haven’t had chance to try out my other lens (just the kit lens) but is it likely there will be a problem with this as well? Feeling very disappointed!

I’m confused why it seems to catch focus sometimes (a couple of the pictrues I’ve taken above) but obviously not most of the time – assuming this is just ‘luck’ with me actually being off focus eventually rendering it in focus because of these problems?!

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/69.14677/

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/photos/70.14678/
I might be missing something, but that test seems to show everything works, it's not a perfect test, as in, it's not obvious what you were focussing on, a page of text is thousands of potential focus targets randomly spaced.

The fact that the focus is successful sometimes suggests it's your technique. Whilst I disagree with the fox's tone and some of his advice (IMO BBF is easier and more predictable than shutter button focus), the point is that what you're trying to do isn't easy, you need to have a thorough understanding of the pitfalls of advanced techniques before you try to 2nd guess.

Firstly, your focus points are larger than the squares in the viewfinder, and your camera needs contrast to focus, so an area of contrast close to your chosen focus point will create frustration*. There's nothing wrong with shooting tricky subjects, but you have to understand that's what you're doing.

*the best example of this is when we 'focus on the eye' and the camera misses slightly because it finds the eyebrow.
 
This wasn't using back button focus. I followed to the letter what someone had suggested earlier and used a tripod so should be no user error. Following the instructions I focused on one area on the text. Using live view the text is clear when viewed at 100%. Using the viewfinder at same aperture when zoomed in this isn't as clear therefore I was told it is the relationship between camera and lens?
Sounds to me like your trying to run before you can walk young lady ,switch off back button focus ,go back to shutter button focus and shoot ,set your camera to single shot ,aperture f8 make sure your shutter speed is above 1/500th sec ,use single point focus .and RTFM a few times till you get it right .a trip to spec savers also sounds on the cards

Assuming your technique is all OK, then it does sound like the lens and camera aren't in tune. Liveview will always prove whether a lens *can* focus properly, but of course that is a lot slower on your camera. The other thing to remember is that the standard viewfinder on your camera won't show you the real depth of field at f/1.8, it only works from f/2.8 or something similar. As a consequence, if the AF point is not in the perfect position, you may not even be aware that your subject is not properly in focus. This is where mirrorless cameras come into their own - what you see in the viewfinder is what you get!

I might be missing something, but that test seems to show everything works, it's not a perfect test, as in, it's not obvious what you were focussing on, a page of text is thousands of potential focus targets randomly spaced.

The fact that the focus is successful sometimes suggests it's your technique. Whilst I disagree with the fox's tone and some of his advice (IMO BBF is easier and more predictable than shutter button focus), the point is that what you're trying to do isn't easy, you need to have a thorough understanding of the pitfalls of advanced techniques before you try to 2nd guess.

Firstly, your focus points are larger than the squares in the viewfinder, and your camera needs contrast to focus, so an area of contrast close to your chosen focus point will create frustration*. There's nothing wrong with shooting tricky subjects, but you have to understand that's what you're doing.

*the best example of this is when we 'focus on the eye' and the camera misses slightly because it finds the eyebrow.
 
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