nikon af-s300 f4 vs sigma 100-300 f4
- Thread starter al 2000
- Start date
- Messages
- 1,928
- Name
- Mick
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Enough said
But I suppose it depends what you want to photograph? if you will use the short end 100mm + a lot or if you going be always at nearly 300 then the Nikon would be a much better choice?
- Messages
- 7,954
- Name
- Chris
- Edit My Images
- Yes
The Sigma 100-300 f4 is a stunning lens if you get a good one, and make sure look for a DG APO version as it was the last one and has better lens coatings.
I however your planning on using it at 300mm all the time I’d say you’ll be better off with the prime.
I however your planning on using it at 300mm all the time I’d say you’ll be better off with the prime.
- Messages
- 6,068
- Edit My Images
- No
I cannot comment on Nikon but I have both the Sigma 100-300mm DG EX f4 and 300mm f4 in Pentax mount. Both lenses are sharp wide open, both take a teleconverter very well, the prime is more compact, lighter and is *ever so slightly* sharper but the Sigma has the flexibility of being a zoom lens.
Personally if I could only keep one it would be the Sigma.
Common Tern fishing - Explored by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr
Personally if I could only keep one it would be the Sigma.
Common Tern fishing - Explored by Mike.Pursey, on Flickr
- Messages
- 12,839
- Name
- Bill
- Edit My Images
- No
Several Nikon lenses can "squeak"
I had the motor on my 300mm f2.8VR replaced etc., - not cheap - £563
I have recently read this on the net
"
I have solved this issue and resurrected from death 3 Nikon lenses, all with swm.
The fault is fairly simple, the swm has 2 metallic surfaces, one of which rotates, (one side has multiple surfaces but I'm keeping it simple), if the lens is exposed to a damp atmosphere and or not used for a length of time, the surfaces can build a thin layer of corrosion. This at first will appear as a squeek, and eventually it will just stick.
The repair can be as simple as removing the screw on the A/M selector, and popping the the switch out (being careful of the little gear shifter on the back. You will then be able to see the swm focus motor inside. You now need a can of switch cleaner, with straw, place the straw onto the swm, and give a SMALL spray of cleaner (practice elsewhere if needs be!) DO NOT flood the lens!
Give it 30s or so the with the lens cap on give the shutter button a half press, if the lens doesn't try to focus, gently try to manual focus to assist the motor (DO NOT force it) once it starts to auto focus it should start to improve, if necessary, apply another small amount of switch cleaner, the more you use it, the more it will improve.
The swm is the metallic component in the upper right inside the switch aperture in this pic:
https://flic.kr/p/vukRwc
"
I would have given it a try had I read it before sending the lens in to be repaired
I had the motor on my 300mm f2.8VR replaced etc., - not cheap - £563
I have recently read this on the net
"
I have solved this issue and resurrected from death 3 Nikon lenses, all with swm.
The fault is fairly simple, the swm has 2 metallic surfaces, one of which rotates, (one side has multiple surfaces but I'm keeping it simple), if the lens is exposed to a damp atmosphere and or not used for a length of time, the surfaces can build a thin layer of corrosion. This at first will appear as a squeek, and eventually it will just stick.
The repair can be as simple as removing the screw on the A/M selector, and popping the the switch out (being careful of the little gear shifter on the back. You will then be able to see the swm focus motor inside. You now need a can of switch cleaner, with straw, place the straw onto the swm, and give a SMALL spray of cleaner (practice elsewhere if needs be!) DO NOT flood the lens!
Give it 30s or so the with the lens cap on give the shutter button a half press, if the lens doesn't try to focus, gently try to manual focus to assist the motor (DO NOT force it) once it starts to auto focus it should start to improve, if necessary, apply another small amount of switch cleaner, the more you use it, the more it will improve.
The swm is the metallic component in the upper right inside the switch aperture in this pic:
https://flic.kr/p/vukRwc
"
I would have given it a try had I read it before sending the lens in to be repaired
Last edited: