Nikon D7000 book

No need for a book specific the the body.

Wack it on M job done :) Front control wheel is Aperture, rear wheel is shutter speed and the ISo button incombination with control wheel handles iso.

No go out and shoot stuff :)
 
Sorry a bit late only just seen this i can't recommend this enough a great book really helpful i just worked my way through it lots of tips pics and tricks Mastering the Nikon D7000 Darrell Young i got it off Amazon well worth the money
 
Hi Fidsey79!

I see you went for the D7000 then! Good choice! Hope you get on OK with it. I was going to get a book on it too, but decided against it as there is so much information available online and people on this forum have been very helpful too.

And the manual isn't too bad as manuals go. The best thing to do is practice practice practice. But watch out for the overexposure in bright conditions. That's one thing I struggle with a bit at the moment. The D90 did it, and the D7000 is the same!
 
Northstander said:
Hi Fidsey79!

I see you went for the D7000 then! Good choice! Hope you get on OK with it. I was going to get a book on it too, but decided against it as there is so much information available online and people on this forum have been very helpful too.

And the manual isn't too bad as manuals go. The best thing to do is practice practice practice. But watch out for the overexposure in bright conditions. That's one thing I struggle with a bit at the moment. The D90 did it, and the D7000 is the same!
Click to expand...

If you're in matrix metering, bear in mind that it seems to have an upper limit of EV16 according to Thom Hogan - after that it apparently doesn't function properly. That limit doesn't apply in centreweighted or spot. The other thing to bear in mind is that unless the the highlights are under the active AF sensor, the matrix system will let them blow to properly expose what it considers to be the subject. I like that bias as I find it predictable in a way that suits me (and I tend to spot meter most of the time anyway), but I can imagine it being frustrating coming from cameras that don't weight things in that way.
 
Northstander said:
Ah I see what you mean.

So do you think I'd be better off using centre weighted in most situations?
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Depends how you shoot - EV16 is pretty bright, think sunny day on a beach or on snow. Centre weighted and spot have issues of their own - as the meter tries to get whatever it's metering to a middle grey, if you're aiming at something that is significantly off that you will need to compensate for that (shooting a Newcastle player could get you an exposure varying by 3 stops depending where on their kit you aimed :lol:). I'd say the important thing is to know how the camera behaves and compensate for it. So if shooting matrix with a scene with highlights you want to protect, dial in a bit of negative compensation. If you're not averse to postprocessing, dialing in a blanket -1 compensation would work quite well as the RAWs handle being pushed really well.
 
blackwolf said:
Sorry a bit late only just seen this i can't recommend this enough a great book really helpful i just worked my way through it lots of tips pics and tricks Mastering the Nikon D7000 Darrell Young i got it off Amazon well worth the money
Click to expand...

I second this! Darrell Young's book is the best available imho and is now down to £16.53 on Amazon which is a great price! :thumbs:
 
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