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If you're wanting two bodies like this then I'd have the 35mm on the D750 and the 85mm on the D5200 giving you 127.5mm fov on the D5200 which is still a very nice portrait focal length.
Nikon D750 & D780
- Thread starter Joeturner11
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Bit rusty in the home studio and boy have you gotta be patient with the little ones. It wasn't working at all, the little lady was past it, far too tired. The only half useable image was this one, and to be fair I didn't nail the lighting as I'd have liked, so too much PS to get something half useable. Well, trying to do something for a xmas card. Have to give it another go next weekend...
Bit late to the party but that's a corker Kris
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Absolutely this Mark. BUT, 127mm will be too tight indoors.
Bit late to the party but that's a corker Kris
Thanks. I'm still not completely sold on it myself, maybe it's a grower?
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Why didn't i think of that lol - thanks!
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Agreed
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But you still have the 35mm for indoors. Plus if you're indoors you can just swap lenses
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Lightroom question for all you knowledgeable folks. I imported 1000 shots yesterday from a mud run, now in the Library module under the histogram it says photo is missing. I have been able to edit the shots and export jpegs but in the Develop module when i try to do Photo - Edit in, all the options like photoshop, nik effects etc are greyed out. In the Library module i did Library - Find all missing photos but none of these appeared. Any ideas? I wanted to convert some to mono but cant do it.
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Have you moved them Phil outside of lightroom? It clearly can’t find the files and so you need to point LR in the right direction.
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As said it sounds as though you’ve moved the file. If you build previews (or is it smart objects) it lets you edit and export them but I think export is limited to about 2000 pixels wide.
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You can’t export a smart preview, only original files.
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Anyone know what U1 data holds on the camera?
If was to borrow a camera and made changes ie saving as raw only, back button focus etc, focus modes. Would this change for Normal A S M modes (looking to borrow my dads d7100 instead but don’t want to mess up any of his settings)
If was to borrow a camera and made changes ie saving as raw only, back button focus etc, focus modes. Would this change for Normal A S M modes (looking to borrow my dads d7100 instead but don’t want to mess up any of his settings)
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Youvan export something else, thought it was smart previews/objects, without needing the original file. Well I’m 99% sure you can as I’ve done it, but as I said file size is limited.
U1 and U2 are user saved settings, so they save whatever setting you choose to save on them.
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Thanks guys. I just did what i should have done at the start, shut the computer down and restart it again! That sorted it out! No idea what was wrong or why when i did the Find all missing photos, it did find some but none of these were among them.
Thanks for your help.
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Here you go.
http://www.gregsamborski.com/exporting-jpgs-from-lightroom-smart-previews-vs-originals/
At least this shows I’m not going mad
Max file size is 2540 pixels wide.
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Here you go.
http://www.gregsamborski.com/exporting-jpgs-from-lightroom-smart-previews-vs-originals/
At least this shows I’m not going mad
Actually yes. Was thinking of working in PS which does require the full sized file, my mistake.
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For sure the polished ones are the one which get bought. And i think you achieved great professional quality job. Specially when it came to the colors which is something i always struggle with.
You're right totally right there, and that the difference indeed. When i comes to my liking of photography i do prefer the "real life".
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Me too. I think 95% of what I shoot is what's in front of me. But I do like learning about 'the process' and polished studio work is something that is completely different and has it's own skillsets.
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Can anyone confirm something for me that google has failed me on? When you adjust the ISO on a D750 can scroll through the ISO figures to auto ISO so you can switch auto ISO on/off without any menu or other button press? I assume you can as the D810 behave like that but just wanted to check.
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Not sure i 100% follow your question.
But, if you mean, can you turn off auto iso without going into the menu. Then yes, hold the ISO button and it's a turn of the front dial for on/off.
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Yes, I realise I probably didn't phrase that very well. My recollection of D810 was that you held down iso button and the spun the dial to cycle through Auto, 64, 100, 200, 400, 800.....
So auto could just be selected in the same way you'd pick ISO 100.
Sounds like the D750 may be slightly different but equally convenient.
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You can have two ISO settings, normal and Easy ISO. I can't remember the exact differences but the way I have it set is that if I hold the record button (I have this set to ISO rather than having to use the awkwardly positioned ISO button on the back) and rotate the rear dial it changes ISO (100,200,400 etc) and if I hold the record button and rotate the front dial then it turns ISO on/off. You just need to remember that if you turn auto ISO on this way the min value is whatever you had ISO set to, so if you had ISO set at 400 and then turned on AUTO ISO it would only change from 400 upwards, it wouldn't go down to ISO 100 (unless you reach max shutter when it will start lowering the ISO I believe). I'm not sure if you can have it set the way you want but maybe easy ISO works like this?
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Right, brill. That sounds very usable. It's not actually that I especially wanted to work the same as D810, more that I just wanted to make sure it could be switched on and off quickly. Sounds nice and easy from what you describe.
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I'm nearly sure that when while you press the iso button, the front wheel turn auto iso on/off and the back wheel change your iso number.
EDIT: same as snerkler said above!
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Nice one! Love my 35.
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Really? I assumed if you had auto ISO on, it would float from anything from the very lowest you set in the menu to your max set in the menu?
If this is the case i better check my camera
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Pretty sure it will start off at whatever you set it to and then go up from there until you reach max shutter speed. I'll double check next time I use the camera.
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Anyone shoot RAW and JPG? I'm tempted to turn JPG on and set up a profile for it so it looks good at the back of the camera, would be nice to show the person a vivid photo, rather than a flat raw one.
If so, what picture profile do you use in camera?
If so, what picture profile do you use in camera?
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The camera doesn't show the RAW image, it shows the embedded jpeg file which I believe has all the jpeg settings (such as vignette reduction, d-lighting and any sharpness, saturation etc settings that you have added to that particular picture setting (standard, portrait etc). The histogram also shows profile for this embedded jpeg too which has been a frustration for many as your RAW histogram is often different to that of the jpeg. Also, if you use d-lighting your RAW can look very different to what you think it might as your RAW file won't have the d-lighting effects (unless you use Nikon Capture NX). Also, if you use the camera profiles in Lightroom (such as camera standard, camera portrait, camera landscape etc) they are only adobe's interpretation of the profiles and won't be an exact match to the jpegs. I've set up a profile that I believe is a closer match to the jpeg in terms of colours.
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Haven't uploaded much recently so revisiting a vow renewal from early autumn
Wedding at Ferry House Inn by Tim G, on Flickr
Wedding at Ferry House Inn by Tim G, on Flickr
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I'd be interested to know more about it? And how have you gone about it. I think i set my import on camera standard has i found adobe standard was really flat looking.
Also tempted too, sometime the jpg in the back look good, just worried of the extra HD space.
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Same here would be really intereseted to see the settings also
And share my secret recipe? You must be kidding
The truth is I can't remember which setting was the one that is closest to the jpeg as I've set several (5`) 'standard' profiles Next time I use the camera I'll set it to RAW and jpeg and see which one of my profiles it is that's closest. They're all very similar though, they all have camera standard chosen in the calibration, added a touch of contrast, decreased whites a touch and also blacks a touch. The red hue is just into the minus, the orange a touch more into the minus and the yellow a touch into the plus (+1 on most). I have one where yellow and orange saturation is also reduced slightly as I think that by default camera standard is too yellowy orange. Can't remember if this is a true reflection on the jpegs though (it's a while since I went through the process )I tend to just use what I call my Nikon default profile though which is based on the above but with a definite decrease in orange and yellow saturation, a slight increase in clarity and a slight increase in contrast, and with a slight increase in sharpening, detail and a bit of masking With the hue and saturation changes I prefer the overall colours and skin tones, but it's just my preference.
Adobe standard does tend to look quite flat Imo, and also quite magenta.
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Recently got my X-T2 and am not convinced by the processing after trying a number of options and comparing them against images from my Sony A7. Have looked at the D750 and I like it, for some reason it feels smaller than most DSLRs and is fairly lightweight.
I do mainly landscape, travel, and want to get into portraits and start weddings in the not too distant future.
I would break-even by switching and would start my Nikon kit with a Tokina 17-35mm and a Nikon 24-140 f4 and possibly a prime.
Is it worth the switch or should I give the Fuji more chance to shine?
I do mainly landscape, travel, and want to get into portraits and start weddings in the not too distant future.
I would break-even by switching and would start my Nikon kit with a Tokina 17-35mm and a Nikon 24-140 f4 and possibly a prime.
Is it worth the switch or should I give the Fuji more chance to shine?
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I tried Fuji but didn’t like the rendering. I can’t really fault the D750, delivers every time.
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I went Canon - Fuji (XT1) - D750 and haven't really looked back.
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What about size and weight? I have found that I use the lighter kit more
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I did use the Fuji more I think. But got fed up with several things and as I moved to weddings I needed a tool I could rely on. I loved the XT1 but it isn't a patch on the D750
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I loved my X-Pro2 and am tempted to go back but the D750 is so much better in real terms. Just bigger and heavier.