Nikon SLR help

:p

Seller just emailed me to confirm it was that.

Chuffed! :clap:
 
Woooo - Hooooo (y) result (y)

(even from a confirmed non-Nikonite - that's a good deal!)
 
Certainly is.

Leaves me quite the wedge to buy a lens with, must get round to finding one now!
 
The F3 is superior in many ways, but the FM series are excellent and a lot of pros used them as back up in the SLR days. Personally, I still prefer my F2. Completely mechanical, and no battery dependency.
 
CT said:
Brill, sounds great - where's the pic then?:thinking:
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WOOOSH!

Anyway, night in tonight so I'm set to research what lens to get. Hoping college have a Nikon F lens I can shove on it on monday to run a roll of film through it.
 
So, I still have lens! I ran a roll of film through the F3 last week using a friends 50mm and I'm pleased to say everything is hunkey dorey - light metre accurate, light seals seem ok. Brilliant.

Now I have found these two lens , the 24mm 2.8f pre AI.

the description on the link someone posted earlier,

Nikon released its major achievement, CRC (Close Range Correction) with this lens in 1968 and it got a well-deserved popularity in the years afterwards. There have been a number of versions of this 24 mm lens, the first without multi-coating and f/16 as minimum aperture, the next multi-coated but still f/16, and the later versions (AI, AIS) going to f/22. Nikon has made several changes to the optical formula during the long life-span of this lens, which still is on Nikon's price list. Earlier versions flared less easily, but could produce quite visible ghosting when employed under strongly backlit situations. Newer versions flare more easily, but the resistance to ghosting has improved provided the lens is well stopped down. It gives very sharp images corner-to-corner even at the near limit thanks to CRC, but beware of field curvature if you are shooting perfectly flat subjects at close range. Some light fall-off towards the corners is evident at f/2.8 and gone by f/4-f/5.6. Set the lens to f/5.6-f/11 to get the best picture quality, but do not stop down to f/22 unless absolutely necessary. It provides excellent results when an ultra-thin K1 ring is added, and gives good results with a 4T close-up lens if some corner softness is accepted. The 24/2.8 MF Nikkor is a classic lens in the Nikon line and one that remains a dependable workhorse to this day.
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and there both around the £100 mark. He ranks them as 4.5/5 by his standards, so I'm guessing it'll be a good lens but I just want a second opinion before I buy to make sure I'm not making a mistake!
 
tjs said:
So, I still have lens! I ran a roll of film through the F3 last week using a friends 50mm and I'm pleased to say everything is hunkey dorey - light metre accurate, light seals seem ok. Brilliant.

Now I have found these two lens , the 24mm 2.8f pre AI.

the description on the link someone posted earlier,



and there both around the £100 mark. He ranks them as 4.5/5 by his standards, so I'm guessing it'll be a good lens but I just want a second opinion before I buy to make sure I'm not making a mistake!
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You are limiting your options with a pre-Ai - you do know that? As has been mentioned the Nikon 24mm 2.8 ais is nice as is the 28mm 2.8 (I have the latter) It focuses right down to 'nout' (virtually) and is sharp everywhere. It is multi-coated and light. In the 35mm dept' the 35mm F2 is the better buy (the 35mm F1.4 is nice, heavy and thin walled (so beware the knocks) and very expensive.

Good Luck
 
tjs said:
How am I limiting my options? God this is confusing :LOL:
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Because pre-Ai can only be used on a limited number of cameras (and that in stop down on an F3) On the F3 you willstill have to flip the small 'lever' to mount that lens.

If you got an FM2n (say) as a back-up, then you are stumped as far as that lens goes i.e. No pre-Ai facility.
 
Ah, I see. But on lens quality, would the pre AI ones perform in and around the later AI/AIS models? I think I can put up with that if I am not skimping on quality, massively.
 
Also, am I right in thinking stopped down metering affects the light metre on the F3? As in you can only meter with the DOF button pressed down, otherwise I'm good to go if I meter off camera.
 
tjs said:
Ah, I see. But on lens quality, would the pre AI ones perform in and around the later AI/AIS models? I think I can put up with that if I am not skimping on quality, massively.
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Difficult question to answer directly because, it all depends what you are after i.e. just a picture? an old style look perhaps? Don't care about flare?

Ai & Ais is not one over the other per se. There were technical advances going on all the time (coatings, number of internal lens etc). There is no doubt that some pre-Ai lenses are superb and produce pictures that have their own 'lens signature'.

If you are happy with that lens, then by all means start their (I would advise you to get a hood for it though).

Good Luck

PS: Sorry I forgot your question: Yes, you are right - hand meter - or meter once and after that, unless there is a serious light change, the film will take up the small fluctuations.
 
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This sounds pretty good:

http://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/6070nikkor/wides/24mm.htm

If you've got the serial numbers of the lenses in question then look at this 'lot'. It will give you year, hood type etc., etc.,

http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html
 
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Yeah I've just read that too, the version I have seen is actually the one between the first AI model and that one - the f22 version, but still 9/7 design before they moved to 9/9. It's multicoated too.

The lens comes with a hood too.
 
scrap that - just found a AIS for £125 on the bay. Happy days.
 
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