Nikon Z* mirrorless

snerkler said:
Yeah I remember that series, very impressive but it’s in good light. I don’t use hi extended as I like to see real time view. Also the problem with dynamic as it doesn’t stay on the eyes.
What’s D8, I’m away from the camera at the mo?
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In setting people say turn D8 off it help with low light and also turn low light AF on too in setting
 
Luftwalk said:
There's a series of photos of my dog running towards me here and a couple of other tracking shots: https://www.flickr.com/photos/luftwalk/albums/72157706365176231
Another series of my dog (full sized JPGs) here: www.bobr.si/files/Ajka1.zip

I'm usually using AF-C, Dynamic area (Wide-S sometimes) and H* mode (12 FPS). It helps, especially in low-light (@snerkler ) if you turn setting D8 to off.
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They are impressive imo ive not been able to do anything like that yet lol still learning the camera like we all say you need to learn and master the tool different tools act differently
 
snerkler said:
Yeah I remember that series, very impressive but it’s in good light. I don’t use hi extended as I like to see real time view. Also the problem with dynamic as it doesn’t stay on the eyes.
What’s D8, I’m away from the camera at the mo?
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Dynamic doesn't stay on the eyes, but if you keep the box on the subject there shouldn't be an issue getting in focus shots.
D8 - Apply settings to live view; This basically means the camera just shows an even lit scene in the EVF and doesn't copy your camera settings to it, thus leaving more processor power for AF :) It also helps when using flash with the Z cameras
 
Well I have just a go messing about but not culled any of the images yet as they was nothing special just messing while dogs was playing and i hope and think the AF-C might of improved with Dynamic as it wasn't struggling much and was focusing pretty quickly.. Time can only tell
 
Luftwalk said:
Dynamic doesn't stay on the eyes, but if you keep the box on the subject there shouldn't be an issue getting in focus shots.
D8 - Apply settings to live view; This basically means the camera just shows an even lit scene in the EVF and doesn't copy your camera settings to it, thus leaving more processor power for AF :) It also helps when using flash with the Z cameras
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So with turning D8 off you lose the what you see is what you get EVF so it’d be more akin to shooting with a DSLR? That’s no biggie for me for certain scenarios as I rely on proper metering etc anyway.
I’m intrigued why it’s better for using flash, unless of course you mean it helps you to see the scene rather than a black EVF?
From my experience with all mirrorless the what you see is what you get only works ‘properly’ in regards to exposure when in manual mode, in A and S priority the EVF never shows massively under/overexposed images and can be a bit misleading. For example if the image is going to be 5 stops underexposed for example and therefore the final image almost black, the screen still shows a relatively well exposed image (maybe a stop under exposed) but the meter flashes to warn you that exposure is incorrect. I learnt this costly mistake earlier this year at Donington using the Olly. The weird thing is that the histogram also shows a ‘relatively’ well exposed image (only slightly underexposed). I thought these traits were ‘faults’ with the Olly but I tested it with the Z7 and it has the same behaviour. Only manual mode will show a true WYSIWYG exposure in the EVF.
 
snerkler said:
So with turning D8 off you lose the what you see is what you get EVF so it’d be more akin to shooting with a DSLR? That’s no biggie for me for certain scenarios as I rely on proper metering etc anyway.
I’m intrigued why it’s better for using flash, unless of course you mean it helps you to see the scene rather than a black EVF?
From my experience with all mirrorless the what you see is what you get only works ‘properly’ in regards to exposure when in manual mode, in A and S priority the EVF never shows massively under/overexposed images and can be a bit misleading. For example if the image is going to be 5 stops underexposed for example and therefore the final image almost black, the screen still shows a relatively well exposed image (maybe a stop under exposed) but the meter flashes to warn you that exposure is incorrect. I learnt this costly mistake earlier this year at Donington using the Olly. The weird thing is that the histogram also shows a ‘relatively’ well exposed image (only slightly underexposed). I thought these traits were ‘faults’ with the Olly but I tested it with the Z7 and it has the same behaviour. Only manual mode will show a true WYSIWYG exposure in the EVF.
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Am I wrong or does the histogram disappear with D8 off?
 
snerkler said:
So with turning D8 off you lose the what you see is what you get EVF so it’d be more akin to shooting with a DSLR? That’s no biggie for me for certain scenarios as I rely on proper metering etc anyway.
I’m intrigued why it’s better for using flash, unless of course you mean it helps you to see the scene rather than a black EVF?
From my experience with all mirrorless the what you see is what you get only works ‘properly’ in regards to exposure when in manual mode, in A and S priority the EVF never shows massively under/overexposed images and can be a bit misleading. For example if the image is going to be 5 stops underexposed for example and therefore the final image almost black, the screen still shows a relatively well exposed image (maybe a stop under exposed) but the meter flashes to warn you that exposure is incorrect. I learnt this costly mistake earlier this year at Donington using the Olly. The weird thing is that the histogram also shows a ‘relatively’ well exposed image (only slightly underexposed). I thought these traits were ‘faults’ with the Olly but I tested it with the Z7 and it has the same behaviour. Only manual mode will show a true WYSIWYG exposure in the EVF.
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Do you use Auto ISO? Ive not checked yet as just wondering if you use Auto ISO then you won't see the light adjustment as the iso will go up and down??
 
Stephen L said:
Am I wrong or does the histogram disappear with D8 off?
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Never tried it, I’d hope not though. Talking of all this I wish Nikon would let you customise the EVF like Olly does, eg I can choose to have histogram, shooting info, pitch and roll (bars rather than the ‘3D’ diagram Nikon uses which takes up far too much of the screen), highlight and shadow blinkies etc all on at the same time. The trouble with Nikon is that if you choose the info display with the histogram you lose half your shooting info :rolleyes:
 
snerkler said:
Never tried it, I’d hope not though. Talking of all this I wish Nikon would let you customise the EVF like Olly does, eg I can choose to have histogram, shooting info, pitch and roll (bars rather than the ‘3D’ diagram Nikon uses which takes up far too much of the screen), highlight and shadow blinkies etc all on at the same time. The trouble with Nikon is that if you choose the info display with the histogram you lose half your shooting info :rolleyes:
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Like you say Oly seem to get a lot of things correct on there cameras. Like I say if it was a FF sensor in the EM1 omg what a camera
 
rookies said:
Do you use Auto ISO? Ive not checked yet as just wondering if you use Auto ISO then you won't see the light adjustment as the iso will go up and down??
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I do, but the example I illustrated was with a set ISO. Try it and let me know what you get. Set iso to base, use shutter priority or aperture priority so that the image is massively underexposed and tell me if the EVF and histogram show the same black image you get when you’ve taken the shot.
 
snerkler said:
I do, but the example I illustrated was with a set ISO. Try it and let me know what you get. Set iso to base, use shutter priority or aperture priority so that the image is massively underexposed and tell me if the EVF and histogram show the same black image you get when you’ve taken the shot.
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I see what you mean ive just tested it up in M mode you see what your taking in other you dont and end up with a black image which is expected wonder if that was the same for sony lol
 
twist said:
That's what people said about Panasonic, cant see them flying off the shelves.
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Because it's the size and weight of a small elephant in comparison to other options, it's also a very expensive system thus far
 
Cagey75 said:
Because it's the size and weight of a small elephant in comparison to other options, it's also a very expensive system thus far
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Yes and I find them a bit ugly too on the top
 
snerkler said:
Never tried it, I’d hope not though. Talking of all this I wish Nikon would let you customise the EVF like Olly does, eg I can choose to have histogram, shooting info, pitch and roll (bars rather than the ‘3D’ diagram Nikon uses which takes up far too much of the screen), highlight and shadow blinkies etc all on at the same time. The trouble with Nikon is that if you choose the info display with the histogram you lose half your shooting info :rolleyes:
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:plus1:
 
rookies said:
Yes and I find them a bit ugly too on the top
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If they had gone with the G9 body it would have been sweeter I think, but then the IBIS might not have been as good - something they do very well

twist said:
I think its also the AF, they really messed up there.
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That is something Pany never really got right, even Olympus have improved a tonne over them
 
Cagey75 said:
If they had gone with the G9 body it would have been sweeter I think, but then the IBIS might not have been as good - something they do very well



That is something Pany never really got right, even Olympus have improved a tonne over them
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Is Olympus still contrast af only?
 
twist said:
Is Olympus still contrast af only?
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The Em1 II and the Em1X both have phase detect, not sure about the new em5 mkIII but from what I seen [vloggers testing the video AF] it seems a lot better than older models.
 
Anyone using a L plate in their Z pls?
 
twist said:
Is Olympus still contrast af only?
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Hybrid on the EM1-II and EM1x, and now the E-M5-III. I’d guess all future OMD’s will have hybrid.
 
snerkler said:
Hybrid on the EM1-II and EM1x, and now the E-M5-III. I’d guess all future OMD’s will have hybrid.
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I know this a nikon thread but have you ever tried the function for cool night photos yet on your Oly?
 
Any uk supplier
 
What gets me - and it’s not just Nikon - is the menu system where you want to invoke a certain function but you have to change another setting first. My example is Dynamic AF. To set this you have to first set AFC. Why not let Dynamic AF be set and it, as part of its “macro”, automatically also invokes AFC?
 
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