Beginner normal vs active on lens

R

rackhs

Messages
636
Name
Steve
Edit My Images
Yes
Hi,

I feel that this is probably a bit of a beginners question rather than a general equipment question so thought I would ask it here...

Not sure if other lenses have this, but on some of the Nikon lenses, I know that there is a normal and active setting. Looking at the Nikon website, it says that the difference is -

-------------------

Normal mode
This mode can be used for most general scenes. Image blur caused by camera shake in captured images as well as viewfinder images is effectively reduced. Camera shake is differentiated from intentional movement such as composition change, and compensated. Panning detection function is included to provide panning shots reliably without switching the mode.

Active mode
This mode effectively compensates image blur caused when shooting from a moving vehicle, or some other unstable position, providing stable viewfinder images and blur-corrected captured images.

-------------------

They both are there to help compensate against image blur, right? So why would you ever choose Normal? If you are hand-holding, there is the potential for movement for various reasons, so why not just leave it in active? Or am I missing the obvious?

Sorry if it is obvious, hence why it is in the beginners section :)

Cheers
Steve
 
rackhs said:
Hi,

I feel that this is probably a bit of a beginners question rather than a general equipment question so thought I would ask it here...

Not sure if other lenses have this, but on some of the Nikon lenses, I know that there is a normal and active setting. Looking at the Nikon website, it says that the difference is -

-------------------

Normal mode
This mode can be used for most general scenes. Image blur caused by camera shake in captured images as well as viewfinder images is effectively reduced. Camera shake is differentiated from intentional movement such as composition change, and compensated. Panning detection function is included to provide panning shots reliably without switching the mode.

Active mode
This mode effectively compensates image blur caused when shooting from a moving vehicle, or some other unstable position, providing stable viewfinder images and blur-corrected captured images.

-------------------

They both are there to help compensate against image blur, right? So why would you ever choose Normal? If you are hand-holding, there is the potential for movement for various reasons, so why not just leave it in active? Or am I missing the obvious?

Sorry if it is obvious, hence why it is in the beginners section :)

Cheers
Steve
Click to expand...
I think its for use of tripod based shots - on canon its called IS (image stabilisation) - but if I put it "on" (active for nikon) and pop it on a tripod, when doing something like a long-exposure shot the camera is pretty steady - so it will "focus hunt" and can do the opposite to what you're actually trying to achieve (which is a steady, in focus photograph). You should be able to just leave it on if hand-held, but when popping it on a tripod, switch it to normal - someone please correct me if Im wrong
 
It was explaned to me for the Nikon 70-300mm VR that the Active was to be used when photographing from a car or similar moving vehicle. I suppose you could have more movement when say shooting in a car compared to handholding on steady ground using the normal VR.
 
Carlh said:
I think its for use of tripod based shots - on canon its called IS (image stabilisation) - but if I put it "on" (active for nikon) and pop it on a tripod, when doing something like a long-exposure shot the camera is pretty steady - so it will "focus hunt" and can do the opposite to what you're actually trying to achieve (which is a steady, in focus photograph). You should be able to just leave it on if hand-held, but when popping it on a tripod, switch it to normal - someone please correct me if Im wrong
Click to expand...

Hi Carl, thanks. There is also an option to turn off the VR (OS in Canon terms) outside of the normal/active switch which I believe is the tripod/non-tripod use part. Have been doing that bit for a while, it is the active/normal one that I am stuck on :)

Swanseajack said:
It was explaned to me for the Nikon 70-300mm VR that the Active was to be used when photographing from a car or similar moving vehicle. I suppose you could have more movement when say shooting in a car compared to handholding on steady ground using the normal VR.
Click to expand...

Hi Simon, thanks. I saw something similar on the Nikon web page about shooting from a car etc. But I still don't see why you wouldn't put it in active rather than normal for any shooting if it is going to reduce camera shake more. I guess I am not sure what the benefit is of having both if they both do the same thing.

Does that make sense or have I just lost it? :)

Cheers
Steve
 
The way I looked at it, is the Active is for moving and Normal for stationery. Say you was in a car or jeep etc and you are hitting rough terrain, potholes etc the Active will possibly adjust for this along with panning in this mode, where Normal will be for slighter body movement.

I had it on my 70-300mm VR and I never bothered using it or had the need.
 
The active mode is for bigger movements. The reason why you don't use this all the time are twofold; the compensation may actually shake the image more if there are no big movements to compensate for; and if you are panning with a moving subject, active mode will attempt to correct your panning movement, and you don't want that: you end up with jitter in the moving background. On a tripod, turn it off altogether as the vibration from the first shutter curtain causes the VR to get confused and results in a slightly soft image. The explanation on the Nikon website is accurate.
 
Some of the bigger Nikon lenses such as the f2.8 70mm-200mm actually have three functions OFF, VR and VR ACTIVE, if I recall. (Away at the moment so cant pull out a suitable lens to check it).

Its all in the manual, but for simplicity as I recall it:-

OFF is for when using on a tripod. As the lens is stable it doesn't need any VR. (vibration reduction).
VR is for normal handholding and the lens compensates for the normal human vibration such as heartbeat.
ACTIVE allows for the human vibration plus larger more jerky movements experienced in a vehicle, although it won't eliminate them entirely in every case.

I keep it on VR most of the time, although there are occasions when I have cursed after sticking it quickly on the tripod. If you go to 100% in PP you will see the unwanted effect.

If you keep it on ACTIVE all the time, getting pin sharp shots may elude you unless you have a very shaky arm.
 
Last edited:
In my opinion Nikon have really made a confusing mess here.

Canon's implementation of IS (Image Stabilization) is much easier to understand: Mode 1 attempts to cancel out all camera movements, whereas Mode 2 detects a panning movement and allows that, whilst attempting to cancel out all movement that's not in the direction of panning. So it's quite straightforward: if you're panning, use Mode 2, otherwise use Mode 1. Simples! Of course there will come a point at which the camera movements are too large for the IS to cancel out, but that's a completely different issue.

Contrast Nikon's implementation of VR. They make it sound as if Active mode is just like Normal mode, only more so. But it isn't. Firstly, panning is only detected and allowed in Normal mode. So you might think that it's like Canon, Normal = Mode 2 and Active = Mode 1. But it isn't. Active mode is designed specifically and *only* for situations where the camera movement is caused, or added to, by external influences such as shooting from a car with the engine running. (Apparently the frequency characteristics of external movements are quite different.) So the best simple advice is to normally use Normal mode, even when panning, and to use Active mode *only* when the source of the camera movement is something other than just you hand holding it.

For a more detailed explanation, refer (as with most things Nikon) to Thom Hogan:
http://www.bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm
 
thanks all, this is really helpful - I appreciate it! Will stop putting my 70-300 in default active mode now for general walk about photography :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top