Old flashguns and modern cameras

ancient_mariner

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I've recently bought my first DSLR and still have a couple of older flashguns (>20 years) that charge & fire OK on the test button. However I've also seen a couple of comments about older guns and electronic cameras as not being a good combo (presumably the old gun pushes a big surge through the hotshoe). Can anyone confirm this, and whether I can safely use an older flash or not on a new Sony SLT camera?

Thanks
 
Being honest, unless Sony say its OK I wouldn't. Older guns have a much bigger trigger voltage and will fry your camera. Don't do it, unless someone from Sony says those specific model numbers will work OK it'll be a very expensive photo
 
I think the general advice is good, don't do it. Your older flashes could still be useful though maybe using them for off camera flash :shrug:

Jakeblu aka Steve
 
Hi, You should be able to find out what the maximum acceptable flash trigger voltage of your camera is from your users manual or the technical department of the camera manufacturer.

Below I have enclosed step by step instructions of how to check the triggering voltage of a flash unit.

Hope this helps.

George.




Flash Trigger Voltage.


Trigger voltage is measured between centre pin and edge contact on the flash's hot-foot.
To check an unknown trigger voltage, you'll need a digital multimeter. For most reliable result, the input impedance of the meter should be 10 Mohm, or higher.

To measure, put fresh batteries in the flash you want to check, and charge the flash until the “ready” lamp (or equivalent) is lit. Then set the range selector on the meter to the most sensitive DC range. To find the right range, start with the highest DC range and go downwards until the meter indicates you are out of range. Then back up one step. This is the most sensitive range. You should now be able to read the flash's trigger voltage from the meter's display.

You meter the voltage between the centre pin and the edge contact. If there is more than one pin below the flash, it is the centre one you're interested in. It will make contact with the large round contact in the centre of the camera's hot-shoe. The edge contact may be a small metal square recessed in the hot-foot, or something larger. It is designed to make contact with the metal of the mounting bar on the edge of the camera's hot-shoe. You always connect the negative probe (black on most meters) to the edge contact, and then connect the positive probe (red on most meters) to the centre pin.

Measuring voltage with a digital multimeter. Black probe on edge contact, red probe on centre pin.
Prior to metering, I've set the meter to use the range 0 to 20 volts. I use my hands to connect the points of the positive and negative probes to the metal of the Speedlight's hot-foot.

Alternatively, you can measure the voltage between the centre (+) and edge (-) of the pc-socket.
Note that older analog voltmeters may have a low input impedance which may result in a voltage drop inside the meter. This will result in a too low reading. For best results, use a digital meter with a impedance of 10 Mohm or more.

Sometimes, the gap between the foot of the flash and the screw for fixing it in the hot-shoe may be too narrow for the meter's probe to reach the metal of the edge contact. If the flash has a pc-socket, you can alternatively measure the trigger voltage from the pc-socket.

You connect the negative probe (black on most meters) to the edge, and the positive (red on most meters) to the centre of the pc-socket.

In addition to the trigger voltage, the polarity of the flash is important. All modern cameras expects the centre pin of the flash to be positive and the edge contact to be negative.

If things are the other way around (reverse polarity), even a very low voltage may cause harm. If the unit has reverse polarity, you will see this by the voltage displayed as a negative number (a minus-sign is placed in front) on the display of a digital multimeter. Never use a flash with reverse polarity on a modern camera!
 
Thanks George - I can easily measure the trigger voltage, but I wonder if current may be a problem too?

At present I don't need to use them, and in any case they won't TTL meter because shoe contact patterns have changed a couple of times. I may try to get an off-camera grip/flash mount & trigger with a photo cell (may even have one laying around).

So don't panic guys - I won't fry my camera. :)
 
Thanks George - I can easily measure the trigger voltage, but I wonder if current may be a problem too?

No. The current is absolutely tiny. Usually a very small capacitor (about 10nF) is charged from the high voltage supply through a high value resistor (about 1M). The small charge in this is discharged through the primary of a trigger transformer which ionises the gas in the tube, causing it to conduct.

It will then discharge all of the energy in the main capacitor (or until it is stopped by any automatic exposure circuit) turning the electrical energy into light energy.

The flash tube is connected directly to the high voltage supply and the power to the tube is not supplied via the flash trigger contacts.

Most cameras are rated up to 250 volts - check your manual.


Steve.
 
Steve - thank you, that makes perfect sense.
 
Your older flashes could still be useful though maybe using them for off camera flash :shrug:

Jakeblu aka Steve
I use an old centon flash (20 years old) off camera with some yongnuo triggers- works fine- would rather do this than chance on camera
 
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