Old manual lens and eyesight adjustment ?

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I like using old manual film lenses on my Sony A6000 but have varied results , What I wondered was as the Sony has the ability to set up the eye finder to suit your eyesight would this then affect to image seen by the camera as you would be trying to focus manually at an image which has been corrected for your eyesight. Is this a thing ? Results using focus peaking seem a little unreliable so I prefer using image magnification to focus using the eye finder/EVF.
 
The Diopter adjustment only affects the optics of the viewfinder. If you manually focus incorrectly you will still see the oof image only now more clearly but still oof.
 
I'm not sure Brad. My understanding is that the image will be sharp because of the auto focus. If you adjust the diopter you are just refining the focusing of the image on the EVF.
 
The Diopter adjustment only affects the optics of the viewfinder
Is this still the case in a EVF ? I had thought this was just a smaller image of what the sensor sees through the lens
 
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I like using old manual film lenses on my Sony A6000 but have varied results , What I wondered was as the Sony has the ability to set up the eye finder to suit your eyesight would this then affect to image seen by the camera as you would be trying to focus manually at an image which has been corrected for your eyesight. Is this a thing ? Results using focus peaking seem a little unreliable so I prefer using image magnification to focus using the eye finder/EVF.

With over a decade using legacy lenses on mirrorless bodies, magnified view is the way to go if you want accurate focusing.

Peaking will get you 80% of the way there 80% of the time, but EVF magnification nails it far better than even the split prism on old SLR finders.

e2a: if you haven't already done so, dedicate a custom button to go straight to magnified view. That works well on my A7x bodies at least.
 
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With over a decade using legacy lenses on mirrorless bodies, magnified view is the way to go if you want accurate focusing.

Peaking will get you 80% of the way there 80% of the time, but EVF magnification nails it far better than even the split prism on old SLR finders.

e2a: if you haven't already done so, dedicate a custom button to go straight to magnified view. That works well on my A7x bodies at least.
That's how I've got it set up on my Fuji. Just the touch of a button and you can refine your focus.
 
I find peaking useful at wide apertures as next to nothing will be shimmering but when stopped down just about everything could be shimmering and although the results might look ok for a small image when looking closely it could be easy to see what is clearly in focus and what isn't. IMO a magnified view is the way to go if time allows.
 
Manual focus lens might not focus all wavelengths of light uniformly enoung for the digital sensor...each sensel is sensitive to a different color light, and this manifests itself as color fingijng with WA FL, but simply be manifest as imperfect focus in longer FL too.

Your eyesight view of the EVF might not be precise enough to get 'in focus' at the film plane, but any focus confirmation blink should be 'best focus' because the sensor signal is used to determine when to light the focus confirmation light...regardless of how you eye fails to detect 'in focus'.

If you put an AF lens in manual focus mode, how does your eye perceive focus in the EVF and in the captured image?...if better than a vintage manual focus lens, it might simply be inadquacies of that lens design to meet the needs of the digital sensor.
 
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