Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread
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After more reading on the web I've done a pixel map and it's cloned the red pixel out. If it happens frequently it'll have to go back, but if it's just those two then I'll be happy with it.I've just been setting up my EM1 during which time the light dropped in my lounge and when I looked at the LCD I saw a bright red pixel. Checked the viewfinder and it was there too. Dead/stuck pixel sprung to mind, although I'd expect those to be either black or white. So next thought was a hot pixel, but then I thought these were only caused by long exposure and due to the sensor heating up. I turned the lounge light on to investigate the issue further and low and behold the red pixel went. Turned the light back off and the red pixel re-appeared so it appears that it's a low light phenomenon, which I find very odd. I tried it with the lens cap on and the pixel's there clear as day.
I loaded the image into LR and when it first loaded and still showing the embedded jpeg the red pixel was there, as soon as the RAW processing finalised after a second the red pixel went. I then read on the t'interweb that LR automatically corrects for hot pixels so I tried again using jpeg and not loading into LR and the red pixel (actually there's 2) can still be seen, as shown below (full image and 100% crop). EXIF ISO 1600 f2.8 1/6s
As you can see with the light turned on there's no red pixels
So why am I get hot pixels in dark light?
I've only had the camera 1 week so do I return it, do I do a pixel map and hope it fixes it, or is it normal and I should ignore it? My only issue with sending it back is that the shop I bought it from have no other silver EM1's left and say they're unlikely to get any others so I'd have to get my money back and look to buy elsewhere, but there's only one shop left with them at the same price (and they have limited stock), everywhere else is more expensive. However, I don't want a duff camera so would rather send it back if it's faulty. I don't recall this issue with my EM5-II.
Edit: Actually one of the red pixels is still there on the lighter image, so I guess it's a case of whether I send it back or do a pixel map? Whilst I know it's not great having this issue, especially on a new camera, I guess Olympus put the pixel mapping there for a reason, and do I just use it and forget about it? Obviously if the pixel map doesn't sort it it will have to go back regardless
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Do you mean in the review screen when you have the RGB histograms? If so then my AF point is there all the time.
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Guess it might depend if you're using single point or multi, C-AF, S-AF or MF?
damianmkv
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cold start by damianmkv, on Flickr
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damianmkv
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The rear thumb wheel becoming unresponsive is the common issues with the EM1, otherwise they are very reliable.
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I wasn't aware of this, is it the older models and Olympus sorted it, or is it new models too?
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All of them, Oly never officially recognised it as a problem so there was never a fix. Sometimes I think mine suffers a bit but then at other times it seems ok, definitely a 'thing' though, loads about it on t'web.
D
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It works fine, just feels quite "mushy".
Still wondering whether an em1 is the better choice over an em5 mk2....
Still wondering whether an em1 is the better choice over an em5 mk2....
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Only for CAF and the grip, otherwise they are much the same. EM5ii is better for long exposures too, the EM1 sucks at that.
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Depends what you want to shoot and what lenses you'll be using. As I intend to mainly use the 12-40mm the EM1 is much better IMO (had the EM5-II and now the EM1) as it's so much better balanced. Also the slight extra width means it's less cramped. If you intend to use small primes or pancake lenses then the EM5-II might be a better option to keep it more compact, although having the grip on the EM1 makes it much better for carrying for the times you might not have it in a strap.
As above if doing long exposure then the EM5-II is better at this.
D
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Hmmm, i have a few primes, but also have the panasonic 12-35 and 35-100.
Also have done the occasional long exposure, but not in a while. What is the issue with the em1 long exposures?
Also have done the occasional long exposure, but not in a while. What is the issue with the em1 long exposures?
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Noise and Hot spots/pixels from the sensor getting hot. I'm not sure how long the exposures are we're talking though.
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Noise, supposedly from the IBIS mechanics, but basically the EM1 sucks for long exposure (+30 seconds) as it has lots of noise. This can be counteracted by using long exposure noise reduction but purists consider that as papering over the cracks somewhat.
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Tufted Duck
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Because the sensor is a floating sensor so even if you have IBIS turned off the IBIS has to be activated to hold the sensor in place.
Supposedly the heat from the motors adds to the long exposure noise.
D
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Personally would have no qualms with long exposure noise reduction, but as it doubles the exposure time it is a bit of a pain...
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I thought it was due to the design of the sensor with the phase detect? The EM5-II also has IBIS yet is better.
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Yeah, that's why I said supposedly.
There are many theories, could be the PDAF, could be the IBIS, could be it was a Panasonic sensor. The IBIS theory makes more sense to me as all the m43 cameras without IBIS but with the 'same' 16mp sensor have pretty great long exposure capability, but I know little of the technicalities of these things and you may have different views. Bottom line though, is it sucks for long exposure
However, with the EM1ii it seems they have solved the issue which means that ultimately these things are surmountable, they just need a bit of effort to resolve.
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It's funny how times change. Not long ago, not using long exposure noise subtraction would be seen as crazy - of course you need LE noise reduction - duh!
Nowadays it seems a sign of a crap sensor...
D
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Does that mean that an em1 long exposure with long exposure noise subtraction is equal in quality to an em5 mk2 long exposure?
D
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PS, the last time i did long exposures, i took multiple 30s exposures and stacked in "StarStaX". StarStaX did 'dark frame subtraction' which i believe is an equivalent of using long exposure noise subtraction in camera - is this correct?
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Had a trip out to Bolton Abbey with my daughter on Saturday. I was going to take the D810 but decided on the ease of carrying the Pen F.
The light was poor all day, but we still got some photos - she took her D7100 and I spent most of my time helping her.
Step Back in Time by Dave Semmens, on Flickr
The light was poor all day, but we still got some photos - she took her D7100 and I spent most of my time helping her.
Step Back in Time by Dave Semmens, on Flickr
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Just had an 'interesting' email conversation with Olympus over the weird noise I've been getting with the EM1. Olympus asked for a video which I duly sent. On the video the noise kept happening every time I tilted the camera, but this isn't always the case, and it can do when just sat on my desk etc. It sometimes sounds like an old modem too.
Anyway Olympus' reply was this.
Thank you very much for sending this video through for me to see/ hear.
I can confirm that this is the noise of the cameras image stabiliser, which works off 5 motors and a floating electromagnetic cushion it is the amalgamation of these noises that you are hearing, I am happy to verify that this is normal for this camera.
Should you require any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to help you further.
I replied back asking why IBIS would be working even though it's turned off, and why it's intermittent. To which they replied.
Do you have the camera set to C-AF (continuous auto focus)? as this would keep everything active.
If you are unhappy with the noise and/ or performance of the camera please send the camera to us for a check up/ service and we can test it along side our master camera at our repair facility.
I recommend sending in your camera so we can check it out and give you some peace of mind when using the camera in future.
I then replied back saying that I wanted to get to the bottom of whether the problem was normal or not without having to send it in as I'd rather send my camera back for a replacement rather than having it repaired, to which I got this response.
Yes, please take it back to the retailer for an exchange.
Should you require any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to help you further.
I'm really baffled as they initially appeared quite sure that the noise was normal but quite quickly backtracked and then were quite happy for me to send the camera back. It doesn't fill me with the greatest of confidence about Olympus service tbh.
Anyway, in the meantime I was directed to this thread from a member on here a couple of pages back and the noise described sounds very similar to that of mine.
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30236
If you go to post 38 on page 3 olympus inform the op that it's the 12-40mm lens and not the body. I will conduct some tests with other lenses and if I still get the noise it demonstrates that it's the body and not the lens, but if it doesn't occur then it would confirm that it's the lens or body/lens combo as described in post 38.
"I have checked this phenomenon with OIMC colleagues in Tokyo last week,
This is noise from 12-40 lens which can not be avoided. As 12-40mm lens uses linear motor for focusing mechanism, it needs to be working time by time to keep its position and to be able to focus fast & accurate. Our R&D dept has checked it and confirmed this is not a defect."
My gut feeling is that it's normal based on the thread above, but it would be nice to get my hands on another to test them. It doesn't really bother me, other than the slight uncertainty that it might not be right. However, I'd like to get to the bottom of it before the end of the week in case I do have to send it back. I'm a bit disappointed in Olympus response how in one email they tell me it's normal but when I question them further I get the impression that it might not be as they're quite happy for me to send it back.
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Don't kid yourself, you convinced yourself you could get round the painterly effect on the Fuji but in the end it got to you. From what I've understood about you on these forums, is that you won't be happy until the root cause is discovered and solved, so I'd take the offer from Olympus and send it in, then if it comes back the 'normal', then you either have to live with it or change to camera system.
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Yeah, you're probably right it'll bug me if I don't get it checked
But if it's normal I can most certainly live with it as it doesn't bother me. As long as I know it's normal that's fine But as mentioned if it's not I'd rather it be exchanged than repaired.
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Thanks. TBH it's not, I boosted the volume so that it was audible, if there's any ambient noise you can't hear it hence why it doesn't really bother me. And as mentioned it doesn't do it all the time. Also, if I half press the shutter to focus on something then it goes away so I can only assume it's linked to the IBIS and/or AF system. I found it interesting that Nawty (I think it was) mentioned that even with IBIS turned off it's still kind of active as it's a floating sensor, which could be it (if it proves not to be the lens) and would hint at why it made the noise every time I tilted the camera in that video (although must stress that it can occur without tilting the camera)
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Well I believe I've cracked the strange noise. It is the 12-40mm lens and I can actually make it happen almost every time. It's when you release the shutter before the lens has acquired proper focus, so in it's hunting stage. Obviously if you're in a well lit room taking something of high contrast you're not going to be able to do it as AF is near on instant, but if you're shooting in dim light at low contrast and it hunts you can release the shutter during the hunting time. There's a knack to where in the hunting stage to 'catch it' but once you've figured it out you can get it most of the time. Obviously when I've been messing about setting the camera up etc etc it's been in this state some of the time and hence why I've got the noise. I guess in normal use you're never going to get this as you're either shooting or you're not.
I'm happy that it's normal and a 'quirk' of the 12-40mm and confirms the reply from Olympus on the other thread.
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Just got mine out (
Now that's all I'll ever hear. Thanks