Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

My first bird photo on the E-M1X + 40-150mm PRO + MC-14. This lens replaces my Canon EF 100-400mm L II and the focal lengths of either of these Olympus and Canon lenses don't have enough reach for most of my garden but testing something means pushing it to its limits. So it's a big crop. Wrens can be quite elusive so I had to go for it as soon as I saw the opportunity but if I wasn't exploring this camera I probably wouldn't have bothered taking the shot unless with a longer telephoto lens.

WREN IN MY GARDEN by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
Took the EM1 MK II out for a spin the other day. Hadn't used it in a few weeks and completely forgot I had it set to JPG only, I only realised when I got the images back to my PC :(

Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised what I got from a JPG at ISO 6400 - not award winning by any means and up close a bit of the feather detail is lost, but not too shabby for a "tiny" sensor.



Olympus OMD-EM1 MK II, LEICA DG 100-400/F4.0-6.3, 400mm 1/200" F6.3 ISO 6400​
 
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both the gsw and the wren shots look fine to me .

robin if you hadn't mentioned big crop who would have known ?

Andrew again if you hadn't mentioned j.peg and high iso who would have known?

this leads me to the point are we getting to tied up in technicalities and needless commenting for fear that another photographer ???? will rip your shot to pieces rather than taking each picture on its own merits ,i.e focus and sharpness plus context ... they are the only three things that should matter .
many years ago when shooting 35mm film the picture was either right or wrong if you wanted fine grade photos you used FP4 if the light was bad you switched to HP4 and used the noise /grain to the pictures merits
 
the black fox said:
both the gsw and the wren shots look fine to me .

robin if you hadn't mentioned big crop who would have known ?

Andrew again if you hadn't mentioned j.peg and high iso who would have known?

this leads me to the point are we getting to tied up in technicalities and needless commenting for fear that another photographer ???? will rip your shot to pieces rather than taking each picture on its own merits ,i.e focus and sharpness plus context ... they are the only three things that should matter .
many years ago when shooting 35mm film the picture was either right or wrong if you wanted fine grade photos you used FP4 if the light was bad you switched to HP4 and used the noise /grain to the pictures merits
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.... I agree with you except that in my case I am a complete newbie to m4/3 and the Olympus camera and lens and I am of course needing to assess whether it is going to satisfy me changing from my Canon full-frame 1DX-2 and EF 500mm etc. Sharing my first efforts here and getting (polite) feedback can help me learn and potentially milk more out of my M1X and ED PRO lenses.
 
RedRobin said:
.... I agree with you except that in my case I am a complete newbie to m4/3 and the Olympus camera and lens and I am of course needing to assess whether it is going to satisfy me changing from my Canon full-frame 1DX-2 and EF 500mm etc. Sharing my first efforts here and getting (polite) feedback can help me learn and potentially milk more out of my M1X and ED PRO lenses.
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When i first moved from Nikon crop to m4/3 over two years ago i did need to learn a new way of handling the files,ime sure its just this learning curve you are experiencing.
 
the black fox said:
both the gsw and the wren shots look fine to me .

robin if you hadn't mentioned big crop who would have known ?

Andrew again if you hadn't mentioned j.peg and high iso who would have known?

this leads me to the point are we getting to tied up in technicalities and needless commenting for fear that another photographer ???? will rip your shot to pieces rather than taking each picture on its own merits ,i.e focus and sharpness plus context ... they are the only three things that should matter .
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In addition looking for details like that on a jpeg further reduced in size to display on TP really doesn't tell us an awful lot about the technical quality of the original...........

Can someone remind me please .....is the sensor on the EM1 x the same as the sensor in the EM1 Mk2?

I'm on the point of selling my Canon kit and downsizing to an EM1 Mk2.
 
But your not a newbie to wildlife photography or to a camera or p.p .you know what your after and will achieve it . I think as well that you have enough contacts within the game to realise that there is not really that much difference in i.q to choose between different makes ,models,types etc .
If we were doing purely landscape work or studio work then yes a larger sensor would be the way to go but wildlife is as you know a totally different genre .. and speed ,lightness and flexibility are the key components personally since acquiring this set up I have not yet used my tripod and gimbal or monopod ,no doubt when the owls return they might come in handy during the waiting period . .
My current set up allows me to get hand held b.i.f at focal equiv’s of 550mm and 800mm with virtually instant focus lock on .its pure and simple the system works . Get down to west bay Harbour with just the camera and lens and practise on the gulls ,take a few slices of bread to keep them close then check your results
 
jerry12953 said:
In addition looking for details like that on a jpeg further reduced in size to display on TP really doesn't tell us an awful lot about the technical quality of the original...........

Can someone remind me please .....is the sensor on the EM1 x the same as the sensor in the EM1 Mk2?

I'm on the point of selling my Canon kit and downsizing to an EM1 Mk2.
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As far as I’m aware it’s the same size sensor just the e.mix has two processors ... the mkii firmware update makes them very close in results
 
mikew said:
When i first moved from Nikon crop to m4/3 over two years ago i did need to learn a new way of handling the files,ime sure its just this learning curve you are experiencing.
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.... I have only post-processed (I only shoot RAW) three files so far and I think you are absolutely right - I unexpectedly have found that I haven't needed to do so much (so far!) and this has surprised me. However, when I was researching M1X vs Canon 1DX-2 body sizes and weights etc I read other comparisons on that page (linked below) and the M1X does not have an anti-alias filter as the 1DX-2 has and so captures all the detail its sensor resolves. There can be no doubt about the quality of full-frame images but the differences are less than I imagined. As always a lot comes down to the photographer - As Ansel Adams says in my forum signature below.

https://www.apotelyt.com/compare-camera/canon-1d-x-mark-ii-vs-olympus-e-m1x

Thanks Mike, your post is reassuring. I want to stay with the M1X system for overall weight and size advantages.
 
the black fox said:
All my pics on Flickr have full EXIF data included
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.... I wish everyone else did too! It's really helpful to be able to assess what potential various bodies and lenses have, especially if you are a new user. No-one is going to steal your settings! Formulaic settings never guarantee the result anyway.
 
the black fox said:
But your not a newbie to wildlife photography or to a camera or p.p .you know what your after and will achieve it . I think as well that you have enough contacts within the game to realise that there is not really that much difference in i.q to choose between different makes ,models,types etc .
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I would say that this depends tbh, and a lot of it comes down to lenses as well. You'll struggle to get the creamy bokeh of the 600mm f4 on m4/3 for example.
RedRobin said:
.... I have only post-processed (I only shoot RAW) three files so far and I think you are absolutely right - I unexpectedly have found that I haven't needed to do so much (so far!) and this has surprised me. .
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Been mentioned a few times now, m4/3 files need far more aggressive processing, especially contrast/tone curves imo.
 
snerkler said:
I would say that this depends tbh, and a lot of it comes down to lenses as well. You'll struggle to get the creamy bokeh of the 600mm f4 on m4/3 for example.
Been mentioned a few times now, m4/3 files need far more aggressive processing, especially contrast/tone curves imo.
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What sort of sharpening settings do you find suitable please.
Could do with setting up some presets to replace my no longer used Fuji ones
Thank you
 
Battery life is good, some third party batteries have not been good at all so it's best to buy the Olympus ones.
They charge slowly which means their overall life expectancy is much better.
 
FWIW in my experience to date

Re: batteries in the MK2
A fully charged battery lasts a day that includes a fair bit of chimping. I always carry a spare......and have been known to swap out as needed the avoid the cam dying at am inconvenient moment.
Even when it's flashing red o have continued to shoot for about 10 minutes and perhaps 40-50 frames :)
 
I can honestly say that I have yet to drop my battery below 40% and I also chimp a bit and have the EVF all the time .I may well invest in a spare though just to be careful with the colder weather coming in
 
tijuana taxi said:
What sort of sharpening settings do you find suitable please.
Could do with setting up some presets to replace my no longer used Fuji ones
Thank you
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I don't usually take sharpening above the default in Lightroom, sometimes reduce it a bit actually as I think default is 40 now. If I remember, or if you remind me I'll post the settings from my preset later. I'm not saying that they are for everyone, but it makes my Olly files as close to my Nikon ones as I can get. My Nikon has 0 contrast added yet the Olly has quite an aggressive tone curve to increase contrast IIRC.
 
snerkler said:
I don't usually take sharpening above the default in Lightroom, sometimes reduce it a bit actually as I think default is 40 now. If I remember, or if you remind me I'll post the settings from my preset later. I'm not saying that they are for everyone, but it makes my Olly files as close to my Nikon ones as I can get. My Nikon has 0 contrast added yet the Olly has quite an aggressive tone curve to increase contrast IIRC.
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I'd be interested too Toby.
 
snerkler said:
I don't usually take sharpening above the default in Lightroom, sometimes reduce it a bit actually as I think default is 40 now. If I remember, or if you remind me I'll post the settings from my preset later. I'm not saying that they are for everyone, but it makes my Olly files as close to my Nikon ones as I can get. My Nikon has 0 contrast added yet the Olly has quite an aggressive tone curve to increase contrast IIRC.
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Thank you Toby
Fuji settings were quite unusual or at least the ones for the earlier sensors were.
Sharpening is quite an art in itself and nice to hear what others use.
Some of the worst examples of over sharpening are to be seen in bird photos.
I have seen feather detail that looks more like it was produced on a Spirograph (remember them)
 
tijuana taxi said:
Sharpening is quite an art in itself and nice to hear what others use.
Some of the worst examples of over sharpening are to be seen in bird photos.
I have seen feather detail that looks more like it was produced on a Spirograph (remember them)
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.... I have been guilty of that in the past and even now I have to be careful.

I do not do any sharpening onboard camera, nor in my RAW editor Capture One. I use a third party Filter Plug-in in Photoshop CS6 called Piccure+. It's powerful and analyses each individual image regardless of lens/camera and so it's not generic.

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-of-piccure-software/

I have been using it for some time.

Be aware that some feather detail actually has structural details which you might not have realised or believe! I used to keep freeflight Macaw parrots (a pair) and loose in my studio house (and garden) and so I have an intimate knowledge of bird plumage. Any falconer will have the same knowledge.

GREAT TIT TOSSING A FEAST by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
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snerkler said:
I would say that this depends tbh, and a lot of it comes down to lenses as well. You'll struggle to get the creamy bokeh of the 600mm f4 on m4/3 for example.

Been mentioned a few times now, m4/3 files need far more aggressive processing, especially contrast/tone curves imo.
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.... A relatively less creamy bokeh is a trade off of going F-F to m4/3 but one which I can accept. Professional Tesni Ward, for example, still manages some very pleasing bokeh with the same M1X + ED 300mm PRO combo as myself and so if she can then so can I. The key to it isn't just aperture and lens but the background distance and how that is lit.

In Capture One I usually reduce the global contrast and increase the micro contrast. How aggressive processing needs to be or not surely depends on the RAW editing software? I don't use Lightroom and never have. Have you seen what Nikon guy Matt Granger has to say about Capture One in comparison with Lightroom?
 
RedRobin said:
.... A relatively less creamy bokeh is a trade off of going F-F to m4/3 but one which I can accept. Professional Tesni Ward, for example, still manages some very pleasing bokeh with the same M1X + ED 300mm PRO combo as myself and so if she can then so can I. The key to it isn't just aperture and lens but the background distance and how that is lit.
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True, but all things considered equal I prefer the rendering of the 600mom f4’s. However, they are outside of my affordability and I’m not prepared to carry the weight and for me the slight reduction in IQ of m4/3 is a small price to pay for the weight and cost saving.
In Capture One I usually reduce the global contrast and increase the micro contrast. How aggressive processing needs to be or not surely depends on the RAW editing software? I don't use Lightroom and never have. Have you seen what Nikon guy Matt Granger has to say about Capture One in comparison with Lightroom?
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It sure does depend on the software, however I was making comparison of the m4/3 processing vs the other formats I’ve used (APS-C and FF) using the same software, and as such the m4/3 requires more ‘aggressive’ PP compared to FF (y)

I’m happy with Lightroom. There’s pros and cons with each software and I’ve trialled pretty much every one there is, at least all the ‘common’ ones.
 
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Yes over sharpening can be a problem with bird pics . As can over saturation and noise the first two I will hold my hands up to being guilty of .. but in all honesty it’s a hobby and a touch artistic licence helps enormously .. every single wildlife photographer I know ( quiet a few ) will render there shots differently .. the pixel peepers can pick holes in my shots ..and often do but at the end of the day it gives me pleasure and quiet often is a simply a window on time and events , I’m not fortunately driven by the need to sell pictures it purely for my own pleasure if you likey then say so if not keep stume
 
the black fox said:
But your not a newbie to wildlife photography or to a camera or p.p .you know what your after and will achieve it . I think as well that you have enough contacts within the game to realise that there is not really that much difference in i.q to choose between different makes ,models,types etc .
If we were doing purely landscape work or studio work then yes a larger sensor would be the way to go but wildlife is as you know a totally different genre .. and speed ,lightness and flexibility are the key components personally since acquiring this set up I have not yet used my tripod and gimbal or monopod ,no doubt when the owls return they might come in handy during the waiting period . .
My current set up allows me to get hand held b.i.f at focal equiv’s of 550mm and 800mm with virtually instant focus lock on .its pure and simple the system works . Get down to west bay Harbour with just the camera and lens and practise on the gulls ,take a few slices of bread to keep them close then check your results
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.... Good advice (as always) Jeff - Thanks for the encouragement.

Yep, my ED 300mm F/4 PRO has arrived and already had the latest 1.5 firmware loaded so must be very new stock. So after I have done a few settings for CAF and allocated Tracking to a button etc, I'm off to West Bay beaches and need not have any care whatsoever about the weather!

Being able to easily carry and shoot a 600mm (equiv) prime lens handheld is a bit of a new experience! Adding the 1.4x to shoot handheld at 840mm (equiv) is a bit of a novelty too.

I must remember to take some sliced bread.
 
Take care m8 just seen west bay specifically mentioned on the weather reports
 
My mate just dropped round with his new Panasonic G9 ,specifically to try my lens out and see what worked on it..

30mm macro o.k
100-400 pl o.k but that’s Panasonic anyway
50-200swd painfully slow ,whereas it’s lightning fast on mine

Lesson learned ,made the right choice in the mkii
 
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the black fox said:
Take care m8 just seen west bay specifically mentioned on the weather reports
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.... Live webcam :

https://video.love-weymouth.co.uk/bridport-harbour-west-bay-live-webcam/

I reckon it's the image stabilisation which will get tested the most and so I'll pick my places to stand. I used to live in a house on West Cliff (until I divorced) and so am not a complete stranger to it fortunately. Light is looking better from about 3:00pm so I'll wait a bit. Tomorrow might be easier weatherwise but we'll see.

Because of the articulated rear screen I'll be able to place the camera on the ground - I have a small beanbag for the camera and won't need any fiddly raincovers.

I'll play it safe in any case - No photo is worth risking injury or life over.
 
the black fox said:
My mate just dropped round with his new Panasonic G9 ,specifically to try my lens out and see what worked on it..

30mm macro o.k
100-400 pl o.k but that’s Panasonic anyway
50-200swd painfully slow ,whereas it’s lightning fast on mine

Lesson learned ,made the right choice in the mkii
Click to expand...

.... Don't forget to check and update any firmware if available for either lens or body.
 
Box Brownie said:
FWIW

When I was looking to downsize I looked at example raw files from the E-M1MK2 and considered the noise as reminiscent of film grain.,......and 'saw' it as more acceptable than the noise I saw in my old canon 7D which by that point I had not used for ages as had my 5D3.

Once I got it and I noticed that where the noise needed more pp on some files than others LR would not cope that well! Someone pointed me to DxO Photolab and it's Prime noise reduction was a revelation......in the way it reduced noise but left subject details untouched that then sharpened nicely.

PS I remember when some grain in an image was considered important.......though it's presence on the Konica 3200 ASA was s bit meh! But then as the highest ASA colour print film available it was the only choice ;)
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Have you any samples of the Prime noise reduction, I have tested it on an image or two and wasn't blown away however was my first attempt. Would be good to see how good it is by some one who has previously used it?
 
RedRobin said:
.... Live webcam :

https://video.love-weymouth.co.uk/bridport-harbour-west-bay-live-webcam/

I reckon it's the image stabilisation which will get tested the most and so I'll pick my places to stand. I used to live in a house on West Cliff (until I divorced) and so am not a complete stranger to it fortunately. Light is looking better from about 3:00pm so I'll wait a bit. Tomorrow might be easier weatherwise but we'll see.

Because of the articulated rear screen I'll be able to place the camera on the ground - I have a small beanbag for the camera and won't need any fiddly raincovers.

I'll play it safe in any case - No photo is worth risking injury or life over.
Click to expand...
Bet you never got a pic of the roof flying off the ice cream parlour on the front
 
RedRobin said:
Yep, my ED 300mm F/4 PRO has arrived and already had the latest 1.5 firmware loaded so must be very new stock. So after I have done a few settings for CAF and allocated Tracking to a button etc, I'm off to West Bay beaches and need not have any care whatsoever about the weather!
Click to expand...

I am watching your posts with interest Robin. I have a Nikon D500 along with the Sigma 150-600mm sport and 500mm f/4 sport with 1.4x and 2x converters and I have to say I haven't used them much at all the last 9 months as the weight is beginning to get me down a bit. I rather like the look of the E-1MX and 300mm combo (with 1.4x) so I look forward to your upcoming exploits and some sample wildlife pics ;)
 
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