Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Only just found this thread. I joined a while ago but have not spent much time here, think that will change. I recognise some members from the other site so they can't escape me on here:)
 
wornish said:
Only just found this thread. I joined a while ago but have not spent much time here, think that will change. I recognise some members from the other site so they can't escape me on here:)
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Evening Dave LOL
 
RedRobin said:
.... Even without making any comparisons with any of the full-frame cameras I have owned, I find the noise levels on my E-M1X images to be slightly alarming when viewed at 100% and so I keep my ISO set below 1000 whenever possible, ISO 400/500 being my most used. And this happens with histograms which hardly ever clip either side.

I have given up on Topaz DeNoise AI as it simply doesn't cope at all well with seas with waves. Instead I use NoNoise AI which also has the valuable benefit of being an integrated part of ON1 2022 and so my workflow is also much more time efficient. It's only my ISO 200 shots which don't need any noise reduction. Furthermore, the default sharpening within NoNoise AI results in me hardly ever needing to apply any sharpening at all in post-processing.
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I have found the same Robin when I know I'm going to be pushing the iso I take the canon R5 and R6 with me as well I don't
think there ever will ever be a perfect camera lens combo but I do love the Em1x with 300mm f4 and the R5 and R6's with the 400mm f4 do mkii with tele convertors
 
lost said:
I have found the same Robin when I know I'm going to be pushing the iso I take the canon R5 and R6 with me as well I don't
think there ever will ever be a perfect camera lens combo but I do love the Em1x with 300mm f4 and the R5 and R6's with the 400mm f4 do mkii with tele convertors
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That’s great as long as you can afford it and then carry the weight
 
RedRobin said:
.... Even without making any comparisons with any of the full-frame cameras I have owned, I find the noise levels on my E-M1X images to be slightly alarming when viewed at 100% and so I keep my ISO set below 1000 whenever possible, ISO 400/500 being my most used. And this happens with histograms which hardly ever clip either side.

I have given up on Topaz DeNoise AI as it simply doesn't cope at all well with seas with waves. Instead I use NoNoise AI which also has the valuable benefit of being an integrated part of ON1 2022 and so my workflow is also much more time efficient. It's only my ISO 200 shots which don't need any noise reduction. Furthermore, the default sharpening within NoNoise AI results in me hardly ever needing to apply any sharpening at all in post-processing.
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I know it's tempting to pixel peep at 100% and many people reading this probably do it but another way of looking at pictures could be to think about how they'll be looked at and look at them that way. For example in the possibly unlikely event that a picture will be printed, and I'd guess that only a fraction of pictures do get printed, then look at it at the print size and if it's only going to be looked at on a screen look at it on that screen. I take pictures at up to and including the max ISO the gear can do and the results are usually useable as whole pictures and often even as crops. I think one of the main things for me when using high ISO's is if at all possible getting the framing right so that big crops aren't needed.
 
woof woof said:
I know it's tempting to pixel peep at 100% and many people reading this probably do it but another way of looking at pictures could be to think about how they'll be looked at and look at them that way. For example in the possibly unlikely event that a picture will be printed, and I'd guess that only a fraction of pictures do get printed, then look at it at the print size and if it's only going to be looked at on a screen look at it on that screen. I take pictures at up to and including the max ISO the gear can do and the results are usually useable as whole pictures and often even as crops. I think one of the main things for me when using high ISO's is if at all possible getting the framing right so that big crops aren't needed.
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I think it also depends on the subject. Birds show up noise pretty bad and I try to keep iso low but for other scenes I’ve got away with 3200 and 6400 ISO.
 
I don’t sell photos , ,unless specifically asked… so everything is for online use only . And noise these days is easily overcome . I would rather get a shot than have to worry about the technical aspect
 
alfbranch said:
A shot from back in summer on a trip to London a 4 vertical 8mm shot panoramic stitch E-M5iii and Panasonic 8-18mm

British museum by Alf Branch, on Flickr
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Yes, I like that. Good stitching from a wide-angle lens. Personally I prefer it uncropped as it shows the symmetry of the shadows to the network of glass frames. I've never seen the place so empty!
 
Hypothetical question (‘cos I’m currently skint). Panasonic 7-14 f4, Pana Leica 8-18 f2.8/4, or Oly 8-25 f4. And why? To complement Oly 12-100/Oly 12-45.
 
Stephen L said:
Hypothetical question (‘cos I’m currently skint). Panasonic 7-14 f4, Pana Leica 8-18 f2.8/4, or Oly 8-25 f4. And why? To complement Oly 12-100/Oly 12-45.
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Not the Panasonic 7-14 but the 8-18 is good I use mine all the time but I am looking to sell it as I want the 8-25 as I think it will suit my needs.
 
alfbranch said:
Not the Panasonic 7-14 but the 8-18 is good I use mine all the time but I am looking to sell it as I want the 8-25 as I think it will suit my needs.
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Must admit the 8-25 looks ideal, but it’s also the most expensive. The 7-14 is the cheapest. Is that because, rather than being bad, the others are simply better?
 
Stephen L said:
Must admit the 8-25 looks ideal, but it’s also the most expensive. The 7-14 is the cheapest. Is that because, rather than being bad, the others are simply better?
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The 7-14 had a bad rep on Oly bodies with terrible purple blotches on images that couldn't be sorted.
 
alfbranch said:
The 7-14 had a bad rep on Oly bodies with terrible purple blotches on images that couldn't be sorted.
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Useful information. Trawling back to my previous interest in Oly, I now remember (vaguely) this defect. Thanks for reminding me.
 
Stephen L said:
Useful information. Trawling back to my previous interest in Oly, I now remember (vaguely) this defect. Thanks for reminding me.
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I am not sure if it has been sorted by Oly firmware but I would still choose the other two the 8-18mm is way better than the m.zuiko 9-18mm.
 
I'm more than happy with the 8-18 and no interest in the 8-25.
Apart from not being bothered about the extra 7mm at the long end, I detest those extending wind out/in lenses.
One other point for me is the usefulness of f/2.8 at 8mm for night sky photos
 
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tijuana taxi said:
I'm more than happy with the 8-18 and no interest in the 8-25.
Apart from not being bothered about the extra 7mm at the long end, I detest those extending wind out/in lenses.
One other point for me is the usefulness of f/2.8 at 8mm for night sky photos
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Two good points there.
alfbranch said:
I am not sure if it has been sorted by Oly firmware but I would still choose the other two the 8-18mm is way better than the m.zuiko 9-18mm.
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I wouldn’t touch the 9-18 with a bargepole. I had one in a previous life, and the only benefit was the light weight.
 
+
alfbranch said:
Not the Panasonic 7-14 but the 8-18 is good I use mine all the time but I am looking to sell it as I want the 8-25 as I think it will suit my needs.
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As mentioned by other posts 8-18 is very good and the added bonus if you are into using filters in the field and not into post processing multiply images the 8-18 will take filters l still have my 100mm filters and they work whereas the Panasonic 7-14 is a lot more difficult to add filters to
 
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My only hesitation (apart from pecuniary reasons) is whether my existing 10mm Laowa is still too narrow for all foreseeable occasions.
 
Stephen L said:
Useful information. Trawling back to my previous interest in Oly, I now remember (vaguely) this defect. Thanks for reminding me.
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was just about to post the same. The purple blotches can be so bad that you really can't clear them. In fact, this was actually the trigger which caused me to move to Fuji from Olympus as at that time, there wasn't a decent UWA alternative for an Oly body.
 
Saw my first Tree Creeper today. Was a long way away so a severe crop (approx. 2mp) on the EM1X, and in undergrowth on a dull day so ISO's were pretty high, so all in all not conducive to the best images on M4/3, but pretty pleased anyway.



 
Sootchucker said:
Saw my first Tree Creeper today. Was a long way away so a severe crop (approx. 2mp) on the EM1X, and in undergrowth on a dull day so ISO's were pretty high, so all in all not conducive to the best images on M4/3, but pretty pleased anyway.



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Did well, they normally run behind the tree as soon as they see you. :LOL:
 
Had a short ride out after lunch today, The light wasn't brilliant after a promising start. The first was with the Laowa 10mm, the second with the 12-100.

Winskill Tree by Stephen Lee, on Flickr

Winskill by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
 
Hi Stephen L two very good images and i was wondering is this somewhere around Malham. Was your ride motorised or pedal powered.
Cheers
 
rockdodger said:
Hi Stephen L two very good images and i was wondering is this somewhere around Malham. Was your ride motorised or pedal powered.
Cheers
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No, this was just up the hill from Langcliffe, on the Malham road. The lone tree is just off this road, down the lane you can see in the other photo. To be honest, I could have walked it from home, but it’s all uphill, very steep, so I drove. Besides, I’m bone idle by nature and with good practice. :p
 
Thanks for that info Stephen L I will have to head that way for a nosey the next time I am out on my bike.
Cheers
 
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