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I do not have the OM5 but could it be slightly different processors or in camera processes?
Thinking perhaps the newer sensor has better qualities?
Mmmmm.....could be the sensor............
I do not have the OM5 but could it be slightly different processors or in camera processes?
Thinking perhaps the newer sensor has better qualities?





Thanks Jeff - assuming you’re talking about the 300f4, yes I’m already thinking about oneThat’s one of the faults of the 100-400 Mike , I suggest trying to hire one if possible it’s far far superior even wide open and my standard rig is with the 1.4 tc .. you lose the flexibility of the zoom but gain unrivalled sharpness
Some more with the 100-400 and OM1 - still not fully convinced... some sharp shots at close range but with even a modest bit of distance to the target and the quality seems to drop off pretty quickly. The reed bunting for instance - I took 50+ shots and this was the best and it's ok but no better I think. The light was reasonable (f6.3, 1/800 and iso640) and I was about 10 metres away I would say - maybe I am expecting too much, opinions welcome.
Reed Bunting by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Happy with this one
Herring Gull by Mike Smith, on Flickr
And this is sharp but at a closer range
Jackdaw by Mike Smith, on Flickr
This is ok - not great - again at longer range
Wren by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Some more with the 100-400 and OM1 - still not fully convinced... some sharp shots at close range but with even a modest bit of distance to the target and the quality seems to drop off pretty quickly. The reed bunting for instance - I took 50+ shots and this was the best and it's ok but no better I think. The light was reasonable (f6.3, 1/800 and iso640) and I was about 10 metres away I would say - maybe I am expecting too much, opinions welcome.
Reed Bunting by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Happy with this one
Herring Gull by Mike Smith, on Flickr
And this is sharp but at a closer range
Jackdaw by Mike Smith, on Flickr
This is ok - not great - again at longer range
Wren by Mike Smith, on Flickr
You can get them new from Amazon for 70 quid or they're on eBay 2nd hand for less.I was all set to pre-order an OM-5 ii until i saw they had stopped support for the small FL-LM3 flash I got with my E-M5 ii.
Think now i'll get an OM-5 i or perhaps an E-M5 iii, that little flash comes in handy at times, very strange decision.
Put a wanted in the classifieds a week ago, but nothing yet so might see what the dealers have to offer.
Sorry for any confusion, I meant the camera to buy secondhand.You can get them new from Amazon for 70 quid or they're on eBay 2nd hand for less.
Thanks for the reply Jeremy - yes I am using Topaz. I don't think it's a terrible shot by any means maybe just not quite as good as I was hoping forAre you using Denoise in Lightroom or something similar? It makes a lot of difference.
Thanks Terry, that is interesting to hear. I've shot a lot with an RX10iv with a 1 inch sensor - it's very sharp and in good light can produce great results. Having bought much bigger and better (?) kit it may be that my expectations were too high...They are a good deal cleaner than what I get from my EM1X and same lens.
I'd be happy with those.
In fact those shots have made up my mind to go for an OM-1 at some point.

Ah that is great advice thanks so much! I used to shoot FF and have not quite recalibrated yet - I’ll try f8 and report back. Thanks againf14 on 60 mm micro 4/3 is physically the same size aperture as f28 on 120mm FF (as f numbers represent a ratio). You could be running into diffraction. I'd try f8 which will give you same DoF as f16 on FF lens of twice the focal length.
In all honesty with 99.9% of my shots with Olympus I have shot wide open . With Macro as the others have said you only need to go as far as F8 , and there’s also focus stacking to play with .. the only difference with Olympus focus stacking is that unlike other competitors your aiming point is the middle of the target for best results as it works from the middle forward then goes all the way back to get the finished result
Thanks GentsI don't own that lens but on the 90 mm I tend to stick around F5.6 to F8.
On the last page my two images of them were F7.1 natural light.
collection agent by jeff cohen, on FlickrI do most of my single shot stuff at f11 / f13 with the 90mm.I don't own that lens but on the 90 mm I tend to stick around F5.6 to F8.
On the last page my two images of them were F7.1 natural light.
Grayling, Isle of Man by Pete, on Flickr
Highland Darter, Scotland by Pete, on Flickr
Harbour reflections and gull trails by Alf Branch, on Flickr
Harbour reflections by Alf Branch, on Flickr





Hummingbird hawk-moth by Ian Diplock, on Flickr
Red peacock butteryfly by Ian Diplock, on Flickr
Field Grasshopper, Isle of Man by Pete, on Flickr
Red-veined Darter, Isle of Man by Pete, on FlickrReally like those great detailSlowly getting to grips with the 60mm
Wool Carder Bee by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Wool Carder (2) by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Peek-a-boo by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Meadow Brown by Mike Smith, on Flickr
CheersReally like those great detail





Emperor Dragonfly, Isle of Man by Pete, on FlickrThats great with the tc and at f6.3 !