Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Not sure if this works or not. Comments and criticism most welcome. OM3 and 12-45mm f4

Point of view by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
 
justyn_c_uk said:
I would be tempted to crop the top 20-25% off it and use the tree more selectively to frame it.
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Thanks for that. I can see what you mean.
 
I'm looking to use my em5 mk2 to take some unintrusive shots of my daughter playing football. I currently, almost exclusively use the oly 45mm f/1.8 on the em5.

So I'm thinking a cheapish way into this and provide enough reach might be something like the Panasonic LUMIX 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 or the Olympus 40-150mm f4.0-5.6.
How do these lenses compare on the em5, can I make these work for from the sidelines sports photography?
 
one from this afternoon OM1 + sigma 150mm f2.8 macro ( nikon fit ) + nikon to MFT adaptor .. if any clever chaps know how to change aperture with this please let me know
incy wincy by jeff cohen, on Flickr
 
Marsh Harrier seen on Guernsey and to share

This is quite a crop and processed to see if there was any value in the level of the crop. I was in a hide and though I was tracking the bird the hide window edge caught me out :(

It was towards the end of the day and the light just touched the birds eye & head. Looking closely I have realised that there are some sharpening haloing along the lower edges :(

Z8169972_DxO_web test.jpg
 
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swisscheese said:
I'm looking to use my em5 mk2 to take some unintrusive shots of my daughter playing football. I currently, almost exclusively use the oly 45mm f/1.8 on the em5.

So I'm thinking a cheapish way into this and provide enough reach might be something like the Panasonic LUMIX 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 or the Olympus 40-150mm f4.0-5.6.
How do these lenses compare on the em5, can I make these work for from the sidelines sports photography?
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You might not have great success for this type of action with your E-M5 ii. It's focusing for moving subjects isn't the best, I speak from my own experience.
Probably best sticking to the Olympus lens, it should focus quicker than the Panasonic on your camera.
My advice for settings would be single small point AF, CAF (not CAF and tracking) low speed burst, superfine jpeg and turn off face detect. Ideally good light so you can use a high shutter speed, set auto iso to 6400 and auto WB too.
 
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Some advise please, i have bought a om-1 body used,and it has arrived with a faulty multi selector , can the camera be used without the mult selector , i see in the instruction manual you can disable it , can its functions be assigned to other controls on the Body, or would it just be a pain , it was a very good price , and it may be worth keeping , what are olympus prices like for repairs
Thanks
 
tijuana taxi said:
You might not have great success for this type of action with your E-M5 ii. It's focusing for moving subjects isn't the best, I speak from my own experience.
Probably best sticking to the Olympus lens, it should focus quicker than the Panasonic on your camera.
My advice for settings would be single small point AF, CAF (not CAF and tracking) low speed burst, superfine jpeg and turn off face detect. Ideally good light so you can use a high shutter speed, set auto iso to 6400 and auto WB too.
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Thanks for the advice, I will check out those settings.
 
mav said:
Some advise please, i have bought a om-1 body used,and it has arrived with a faulty multi selector , can the camera be used without the mult selector , i see in the instruction manual you can disable it , can its functions be assigned to other controls on the Body, or would it just be a pain , it was a very good price , and it may be worth keeping , what are olympus prices like for repairs
Thanks
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That's probably why it was a good price. Although I'm sure it can still be used (don't know about remapping it) the fact that it's got one major-ish fault would make me doubt that it wouldn't develop more faults in the future. Was the fault mentioned when you bought it? If it were from a reputable retailer ask if they would get it repaired. But my instinct would be to reject it.
 
mav said:
Some advise please, i have bought a om-1 body used,and it has arrived with a faulty multi selector , can the camera be used without the mult selector , i see in the instruction manual you can disable it , can its functions be assigned to other controls on the Body, or would it just be a pain , it was a very good price , and it may be worth keeping , what are olympus prices like for repairs
Thanks
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Reach out to OM-Systems

Repair Service - MyOMSYSTEM

my.omsystem.com my.omsystem.com
 
You have two options for repair the first is contact OMS via there European office they do a fixed price repair and it goes to Portugal about 7 day turn round ..
Or contact a.j.johnstone in Glasgow and see what there estimate is they handle repairs for all the grey importers
 
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Hi. Quick question for any Olympus e-m5 ii users. Does focus peaking only work for electronic lenses? I’ve just been out with the Laowa 7.5mm and noticed that although I had focus peaking switched on, there was no focus peaking visible through the viewfinder. Fortunately, it was ultra wide so I’m confident that it was mostly in focus anyway, but if I look into other manual focus lenses then should I consider upgrading to an e-m5iii or other camera?
 
Petey said:
Hi. Quick question for any Olympus e-m5 ii users. Does focus peaking only work for electronic lenses? I’ve just been out with the Laowa 7.5mm and noticed that although I had focus peaking switched on, there was no focus peaking visible through the viewfinder. Fortunately, it was ultra wide so I’m confident that it was mostly in focus anyway, but if I look into other manual focus lenses then should I consider upgrading to an e-m5iii or other camera?
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Which version of the Laowa do you have? The plain one or the one with electronic connections? On mine, the C-Dreamer with the connections which allow it to communicate with the camera, focus peaking is in operation, but I think with the vanilla version the camera body also needs to be told it is a manual focus lens. This is on the OM3, but I imagine it's the same on other Olympus bodies.
 
Stephen L said:
Which version of the Laowa do you have? The plain one or the one with electronic connections? On mine, the C-Dreamer with the connections which allow it to communicate with the camera, focus peaking is in operation, but I think with the vanilla version the camera body also needs to be told it is a manual focus lens. This is on the OM3, but I imagine it's the same on other Olympus bodies.
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I have the older version without electronic connections. I’ve got manual focus on and focus peaking, but it’s not working. So I’m thinking, with my camera which is much older, that the focus peaking only works with lenses that have the electronic connections. I’ll try again later with an oly lens, but may need to think about another camera if I want something like a 35mm f0.95 (I’ve picked that lens up for Fuji with an x-t2, but never take it with me as all my other gear is mft.)
 
Petey said:
I have the older version without electronic connections. I’ve got manual focus on and focus peaking, but it’s not working. So I’m thinking, with my camera which is much older, that the focus peaking only works with lenses that have the electronic connections. I’ll try again later with an oly lens, but may need to think about another camera if I want something like a 35mm f0.95 (I’ve picked that lens up for Fuji with an x-t2, but never take it with me as all my other gear is mft.)
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That sounds strange. Yes, it's a good idea to try it with another manual lens. Although I've found focus peaking to only give a close approximation to sharpness, and it may still need the good old-fashioned eye.
 
jerry12953 said:
Which would you buy to replace my OM1 mk 1? I also have an OM5 mk 1 but I hardly ever use it. I shoot mainly birds and landscapes.

OM1 mk2 - HDEW price at the moment £1249
OM3 - HDEW price £1199.

I'd have to buy a grip for the OM3 which more or less equalises the price.
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I have a grip on my OM3, but I tend to only need it on the heaviest lens I own - the 12-100. Even if they were the same price I wouldn't swap my 3 for a 1 as I value the lightness and size, even with the grip.
 
the black fox said:
You have two options for repair the first is contact OMS via there European office they do a fixed price repair and it goes to Portugal about 7 day turn round ..
Or contact a.j.johnstone in Glasgow and see what there estimate is they handle repairs for all the grey imports
Click to expand...

Spoke to the Shop i bought it from , they were very apologetic and will issue a refund. It is the actual button that has broken ,contacted johnsons they are a similar price to olympus circa £350
The Camera looks brand new 4000 shutter count, i am temped to keep it as it was a raally good price , its for my gf she is going to have a try and see if she likes it how wouldnit perform with the panasonic 100-400 , would the is still work or would it be ibis only. She is using a panasonic g9 at the moment. Would the om-1 a good upgrade
 
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Stephen L said:
I have a grip on my OM3, but I tend to only need it on the heaviest lens I own - the 12-100. Even if they were the same price I wouldn't swap my 3 for a 1 as I value the lightness and size, even with the grip.
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I'd be using it with the 12-100 and a Pana 100-400 zoom (at the moment) . I thought I'd use the OM5 a lot more than I do for its small size and weight, and the OM3 could suffer the same fate despite is updated innards.
 
jerry12953 said:
I'd be using it with the 12-100 and a Pana 100-400 zoom (at the moment) . I thought I'd use the OM5 a lot more than I do for its small size and weight, and the OM3 could suffer the same fate despite is updated innards.
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I own an om1ii and an om3. The om3 is great for primes and compact zooms, anything bigger it’s the om1. Even the grip on the om3 doesn’t feel right with longer/heavier lenses.
 
jerry12953 said:
Which would you buy to replace my OM1 mk 1? I also have an OM5 mk 1 but I hardly ever use it. I shoot mainly birds and landscapes.

OM1 mk2 - HDEW price at the moment £1249
OM3 - HDEW price £1199.

I'd have to buy a grip for the OM3 which more or less equalises the price.
Click to expand...

Wildlife. OM-1 mk2. Bigger buffer.
 
mav said:
Spoke to the Shop i bought it from , they were very apologetic and will issue a refund. It is the actual button that has broken ,contacted johnsons they are a similar price to olympus circa £350
The Camera looks brand new 4000 shutter count, i am temped to keep it as it was a raally good price , its for my gf she is going to have a try and see if she likes it how wouldnit perform with the panasonic 100-400 , would the is still work or would it be ibis only. She is using a panasonic g9 at the moment. Would the om-1 a good upgrade
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Nope not a good move as you lose a lot of functionality using Panasonic lenses on Olympus bodies .. it will work but your not going to be able to do everything the camera is capable of
 
mav said:
Spoke to the Shop i bought it from , they were very apologetic and will issue a refund. It is the actual button that has broken ,contacted johnsons they are a similar price to olympus circa £350
The Camera looks brand new 4000 shutter count, i am temped to keep it as it was a raally good price , its for my gf she is going to have a try and see if she likes it how wouldnit perform with the panasonic 100-400 , would the is still work or would it be ibis only. She is using a panasonic g9 at the moment. Would the om-1 a good upgrade
Click to expand...

I've used an OM1 with the Panasonic 100-400 for a good few years and got some excellent results with it. Maybe I just didn't know what I was missing?

What is it they say about the perfect being the enemy of the good?
 
Taken at Linton, near Grassington OM3 with 12-100 f4 Pro

Bridge by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
 
Stephen L said:
Taken at Linton, near Grassington OM3 with 12-100 f4 Pro

Bridge by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
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Interesting bridge...
My first thought that it is a 'packhorse bridge' but the stone 'squeeze stile' at the end of it would bar the packhorses.

Edit
Took a bit of digging but found this blog post where the writer poses the same question re : packhorse bridge but not one because of the stile!
It is apparently Grade 2 listed.

Ooops missed adding the blog...

www.realyorkshireblog.com

Li’le Emily’s Bridge – a window into past Dales lives

On a recent trip to Grassington to take some photos of the town which poses as Darrowby in the new Channel 5 remake of All Creatures Great and Small, I decided to walk down to Linton from the Yorkshire Dales National Parks Car park. After crossing the main footbridge over the weir, I took a path...
www.realyorkshireblog.com www.realyorkshireblog.com
 
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Stephen L said:
That sounds strange. Yes, it's a good idea to try it with another manual lens. Although I've found focus peaking to only give a close approximation to sharpness, and it may still need the good old-fashioned eye.
Click to expand...
I found out what the issue was. With lenses that have no electronic connections, not only do you have to switch focus peaking on in the menu, but you also need to assign it to a function button. Switching it on in the menu means it’ll operate for lenses with electronic contacts when in manual focus. But for lenses without electronic contacts, for some reason you also need to assign focus peaking to a function button with my camera. I’ve no problem with that now I’ve figured it out.

Annoyingly, in figuring this out, I’ve discovered that the manual focus clutch on my 12mm f2 is broken. Must’ve taken a knock while I’ve been on holiday. Tbf.. it still works just fine in AF, but it’s a feature of that lens I liked.
 
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