Outdoor flash usage?

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dancook

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I'm shooting the A level results tomorrow morning, and my initial reaction was to use flash.. however I couldn't really place my finger on why for this occasion of outdoor photography I would choose to do so - over other times. It just seemed appropriate to ensure I got 'well lit' shots.

I had a look at last years shots and also happened upon a publicly available shot, sure enough flash was used
https://unitedlearning.org.uk/news/975-a-b-grades-for-guildford-high-school-in-2017-a-levels-1

I'd rather not learn to fail when I need to produce results, and I'm sure I'm overthinking it...

I guess i'm thinking when these images will be used for the newspaper and marketing I want the subject to pop more than usual?

any thoughts on the matter?
 
Like any situation, it rather depends on the conditions - flat and overcast day, flash adds much needed pop; bright sun, flash lifts harsh shadows; against the light, use a dash of fill-in; dark skin usually benefits, etc etc. But on balance I'd guess that flash would usually be beneficial more often than not and should certainly be at the ready. You can always turn it off.

The images in your links are good examples of getting it wrong IMO. Some shots without flash definitely needed it, and most of those with flash are over-cooked (even for a press tog ;)).
 
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HoppyUK said:
Like any situation, it rather depends on the conditions - flat and overcast day, flash adds much needed pop; bright sun, flash lifts harsh shadows; against the light, use a dash of fill-in etc etc. But on balance I'd guess that flash would usually be beneficial more often than not and should certainly be at the ready. You can always turn it off.

The images in your links are good examples of getting it wrong IMO. Some shots without flash definitely needed it, and most of those with flash are over-cooked (even for a press tog ;)).
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So maybe test with some TTL -2/-1 until I get a near seamless look and go from there - direct flash vs rogue flash bender - I don't want to create a shine on oily faces, but i'm not going to have a big softbox
 
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dancook said:
So maybe test with some TTL -2/-1 until I get a near seamless look and go from there - direct flash vs rogue flash bender - I don't want to create a shine on oily faces, but i'm not going to have a big softbox
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Yes (y) And less is more. You only need a very small amount of light to lift dark shadows and put a sparkle in the eyes. On-camera on-axis works well, the flash will recharge immediately so you can shoot lots to avoid blinking, and it's dead easy to moderate.

As you said, I'd guess the requirement is only for 'well-lit' shots and there's no need or want for anything more. Going fully armed with a ton of intimidating gear could even work against you.
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes (y) And less is more. You only need a very small amount of light to lift dark shadows and put a sparkle in the eyes. On-camera on-axis works well, the flash will recharge immediately so you can shoot lots to avoid blinking, and it's dead easy to moderate.

As you said, I'd guess the requirement is only for 'well-lit' shots and there's no need or want for anything more. Going fully armed with a ton of intimidating gear could even work against you.
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Thanks, will sleep better having a plan :)
 
dancook said:
Thanks, will sleep better having a plan :)
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On the other hand, every assignment is a potential portfolio opportunity so if there are a couple of camera-friendly students and a handy location with maybe a nice line of school desks or whatever, it would be a shame not to have an umbrella in the car to lay a bit of Rembrandt on them ;) After you've got the job in the bag.
 
Basically I agree with Richard - regardless of weather/light conditions, I almost always use just enough flash power to make a difference, but without risking buggering it up.

And once you've got your must have shots safely in the bag, do some more dramatic, experimental shots too, partly for experience, partly so that you can offer something better and different.
 
Is it ok to mix auto ISO aperture mode and hss TTL flash?

A few times the results were way over exposed.

However this morning it went well, it poured with rain - but still got some nice shots for the press.

I was constantly moving inside and out - maybe I should have gone full manual and kept on top of it, just so I could work out some faster flash recycles. At some point I gave up on flash, as I wanted to burst through the emotions - kept the flash for a few group shots.
 
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dancook said:
Is it ok to mix auto ISO aperture mode and hss TTL flash?

A few times the results were way over exposed.

However this morning it went well, it poured with rain - but still got some nice shots for the press.

I was constantly moving inside and out - maybe I should have gone full manual and kept on top of it, just so I could work out some faster flash recycles. At some point I gave up on flash, as I wanted to burst through the emotions - kept the flash for a few group shots.
Click to expand...

Mixing flash and daylight is notoriously difficult for camera metering systems. There are three exposures to sort out - flash, ambient, and flash/ambient balance. Then throw in some common variables like a white shirt against a dark background and there's plenty of room for both error and inconsistency. Then in the next group shot the white shirt moves to the side and there's a dark blazer in its place and the whole thing goes to poo :eek:

Can't speak for Nikon, but I tend to use a mix of auto-exposure and manual. On Canon, it's easy to have manual exposure on the camera for ambient and auto on the flash controlled independently on the back of the gun. And vice versa. Having manual on one at least nails that down, then get good at chimping fast and adjusting each situation quickly.

Catching fleeting expressions is vital so if the flash recycle time is slowing you down, push the ISO mercilessly. Nobody will notice for this kind of work but if you miss the moment you'll kick yourself. Or just turn it down (it'll still make a useful difference), or lose the flash diffuser that is sapping power. With flash at close distance, just taking one step forward will bump the brightness usefully.

Lots of options, but thinking on your feet is key, knowing the best compromise to make, and total familiarity with equipment.
 
dancook said:
Is it ok to mix auto ISO aperture mode and hss TTL flash?
Click to expand...
I do it frequently with good results. With Nikons, as long as you are not using spot metering the system goes into BL mode... I've heard that BL stands for Balanced Light or Back Light; not sure which. Either way, the camera sets the exposure for the scene and the flash sets it's exposure for fill to balance. The flash is not used as primary. -1 is where I start on the flash, and I prefer matrix metering for this. Of course, anytime you let the system make decisions for you, you might not get what you want.
 
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