"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

I pass this building every day. Today I decided to capture the beauty of the flowers against the dereliction of the door. G9 with PanaLeica 15mm

Door by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
 
What do you think of that particular lens @Stephen L ?
It's sharp, relatively bright at f1.7, light, with an aperture ring. Useful focal length for just walking around. Yes, I like it.
 
I did laugh when I looked up the GX9 grip....who came up with the idea of launching an official grip with no cut out for the battery LOL
Fortunately JJC make a good alternative for the GX9. Olympus did exactly the same with the grip for the E-M10 III but I didn't find the third-party one as good. The compromises needed to create the cut-out for the battery mean the grip moves slightly on the camera. I also prefer the extra shutter release position on the OEM grip.
 
Not that I'm looking to become professional but do many pros use M43 cameras? Anyone know of any pros that do? Would love to have a look at what they can achieve with the smaller system.
I posted this in another thread but you may have to look for MFT shots.


And there are loads of blogs and reviews...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOPwMqrSTro


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98PF33R5gxk
 
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Yes I read that and it's interesting.

Sony are not for me as I can't get my fingers between the grip and lens on the ones I've tested (A7IV and A9 I think it was, the really expensive one). Well I can, but my finger tips are squished against the lens barrel lol and I don't want to be doing that every time I take a photo. Definitely suited to people with smaller hands than me the Sony cameras.

I just wondered if MFT still had a place in the professional world given the strides the new cameras have made in terms of smaller size, stabilisation, etc.

I did read something online about a company in California that had made a 33 MP M43 sensor. Wonder if they increased the MP of the M43 systems would they suddenly become more popular on the various YouTube channels, etc?

Just a thought, nothing particularly behind it. Just you watch and read a lot and people seem to criticise the M43 system..but are they really that bad that you couldn't do say a wedding with one, or a portrait session for example?
 
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Yes I read that and it's interesting.

Sony are not for me as I can't get my fingers between the grip and lens on the ones I've tested (A7IV and A9 I think it was, the really expensive one). Well I can, but my finger tips are squished against the lens barrel lol and I don't want to be doing that every time I take a photo. Definitely suited to people with smaller hands than me the Sony cameras.

I just wondered if MFT still had a place in the professional world given the strides the new cameras have?

I did read something online about a company in California that had made a 33 MP M43 sensor. Wonder if they increased the MP of the M43 systems would they suddenly become more popular on the various YouTube channels, etc?

Just a thought, nothing particularly behind it. Just you watch and read a lot and people seem to criticise the M43 system..but are they really that bad that you couldn't do say a wedding with one, or a portrait session for example?

Years ago people had a pop at the comments that lady above made and at the time IMO she completely justified herself with the quality of results she provided.

Ah Ha! found a link with examples...


The problems I can see with MFT as a happy amateur are as follows...

- Low mp count, some people demand high mp count cameras.
- A lack of DR when compared to FF cameras and I do see this myself with MFT being more susceptible to blowing the highlights.
- Grain is perhaps visible at base ISO's whereas with FF you get a smoother look.
- When compared to FF the high ISO's aren't so good.
- Panasonic persist with DFD focusing which some say isn't good for tracking subjects but this doesn't affect me as I don't take pictures of birds in flight or fast action.

I'm sure you'll be able to google your way to many nice examples from many different people.
 
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Is 21-25 MP low though? My S5 isn't much better and the R6 is 20ish MP isn't it?

I don't typically take photos in low light and the light trails I have done I e done on my S5, so no experience on my G9 / GX9.

I am an amateur and have taken what I think are okay pictures with both, but I just wonder if the M43 system perhaps gets a bad rep because we are gear driven (typically) and tend to want the latest shiny toy (I know I am guilty of this).

I've subscribed to a couple of YouTube channels where they use M43 systems but I don't trust many people on YT as they are typically either sponsored or trying to get income / sponsors and will have a bias...

It's hard to find genuine, honest information.

I watched a video where the guy had a M43 camera and a 5D something and had been hired to shoot some pictures for print around 1 meter longest side if I recall correctly and the printer couldn't tell the difference. Is this legit or was it all staged? Who knows, and that's where the issue is for me...what's legitimate and what isn't ?

I know it doesn't matter really as I'm not a pro so don't really care but I'm curious and like to read / research things.....
 
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Is 21-25 MP low though? My S5 isn't much better and the R6 is 20ish MP isn't it?

I don't typically take photos in low light and the light trails I have done I e done on my S5, so no experience on my G9 / GX9.

I am an amateur and have taken what I think are okay pictures with both, but I just wonder if the M43 system perhaps gets a bad rep because we are gear driven (typically) and tend to want the latest shiny toy (I know I am guilty of this).

Some people on forums call for ever higher mp counts and for them MFT and 20mp just isn't enough. I was happy enough with my 12mp Canon 5D and before that I was happy with my 8mp canon 20D and before that I was happy with my 6mp Canon 300D. The biggest picture I've ever printed is A3 and 6mp seems to be enough for that when viewed normally or even a bit closer. I do like being able to crop more though these days and as I mostly use prime lenses that gives me some extra scope and freedom.

I don't often take pictures in low light now but I do think that some artificial lighting can be just horrible at ISO 1,600 and that is IMO a bigger issue than low light.
 
Years ago people had a pop at the comments that lady above made and at the time IMO she completely justified herself with the quality of results she provided.

Ah Ha! found a link with examples...


The problems I can see with MFT as a happy amateur are as follows...

- Low mp count, some people demand high mp count cameras.
- A lack of DR when compared to FF cameras and I do see this myself with MFT being more susceptible to blowing the highlights.
- Grain is perhaps visible at base ISO's whereas with FF you get a smoother look.
- When compared to FF the high ISO's aren't so good.
- Panasonic persist with DFD focusing which some say isn't good for tracking subjects but this doesn't affect me as I don't take pictures of birds in flight or fast action.

I'm sure you'll be able to google your way to many nice examples from many different people.
Interesting article.
She uses Sony FF now.....
 
Interesting article.
She uses Sony FF now.....

She seems to use Sony and MFT.


"Sony A7Riii full frame camera body
Tamron 70-180 f2.8
Tamron 28-75 f2.8
Sony 85mm f1.8

Panasonic GX8 u43 camera body
Olympus 45mm f1.8
Olympus 17mm f1.8"

I have those two Oly lenses but I can't remember the last time I used the 45mm.
 
I remember the days well when Lindsay Dobson was having to defend herself from all sorts of attacks because she was professional using MFT. As mentioned above, her photographs were the proof in the pudding and spoke for themselves. I think she retreated a little from various on-line communities because of the attacks, which was a shame because she was a very knowledgeable person, and very generous with that knowledge,

In other news, I love my MFT set-up. I don't even find low-light noise an issue any longer now I have Topaz Denoise AI... One day I'd like to treat myself to a G9. I see they're £835 on Amazon right now, That's still an awful lot (for me) but definitely edging in the right direction! And I too love the 45mm 1.8 but rarely use it. I have the Panasonic 35-100 lens and that covers that range in some style. But I must confess, when I do use the 45 (and the 20mm 1.7) I always think, yes, must use primes more.

I also bought a Nikon D700 last year to try full frame, I think that's only 12mb, and that's fine. In fact, when it comes to processing on this old computer these small files are way quicker and easier to handle, and on screens the results are fine.
 
I've never worried overmuch about technical quality, provided a camera can deliver the picture I want. The tiny GM5 with its "standard" 12~32mm does that, more often than not...

Chieftain tank at the Yorkshire Air Museum GM5 P1220743 copy.JPG
 
I have the GM1 rather than the GM5 but the same 12-32 lens. It's usually in my pocket and I prefer it to my phone.

One from this morning:

52126278668_334d09ea16_c.jpg
 
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I use the compact 35-100mm on my second GM5.

It's an inconspicuous kit for walking around with...

Girl and friend Exeter Guildhall GM5 P1240147.jpg
 
Just been told my pre ordered 9mm is in stock. LCE had three come in today, so have to assume other places are getting them too.
I spoke to UK Digital yesterday. They hadn't arrived yet but am 3rd on their list, so shouldn't be long.
 
Lovely pictures and no doubt a lovely day out Stephen :D I haven't been able to get out for a couple of weeks so I've been limited to the house, through windows and the garden.
 
Lovely pictures and no doubt a lovely day out Stephen :D I haven't been able to get out for a couple of weeks so I've been limited to the house, through windows and the garden.
Thanks - I’ve not been out for a while, but on a whim I ventured out after tea yesterday. Being early evening, there were few people around, and it was a lovely drive through the dales and over Buttertubs (one of my favourite roads).
 
Recommendations please, want a smaller lens to go with my 100 - 300 on the Lumix G80. Here's the criteria:

Power OIS so it works in unison with the IBIS
Around £200 so likely looking at used.

I've seen a few good condition Pana 12-60 online and that's where I'm drifting, but please advise if there's others I should consider in the £200 price range?
 
You don't gain that much with dual is, G80 already works well with its IBIS.
I use an Olympus 12-45 on a GX9 and its IBIS is probably a stop less effective than your camera.
Saying that the 12-60 is still probably your best bet unless you can find a reasonably priced 12-35/2.8 mk i. Also consider paying a bit more for an Olympus 12-40/2.8, another fine lens.
 
As alternatives to the 12-60mm lenses I think these deserves a look before being dismissed...

Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8... Power OIS.


I have the MK1 which I bought used. I like the f2.8 throughout the zoom range as it gives a FF (FF at f5.6) type look from a MFT zoom and can help to keep the ISO down in lower light. I think it is a good lens.

I also have this one which I can recommend as it's tiny and sharp from wide open. You can buy a used one for £60-£70.


I'm not a great zoom user so I'd probably go for a prime, something in the 14 to 25mm range.

Good luck choosing.
 
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The very best camera in the world is always the one you have with you when you see the picture.

In this case, the tiny GM5...

Panasonic GM5_red 8GB 02 P1220035.jpg
 
You don't gain that much with dual is, G80 already works well with its IBIS.
I use an Olympus 12-45 on a GX9 and its IBIS is probably a stop less effective than your camera.
Saying that the 12-60 is still probably your best bet unless you can find a reasonably priced 12-35/2.8 mk i. Also consider paying a bit more for an Olympus 12-40/2.8, another fine lens.
As I understood it, the Mega OIS takes control and you don't get the IBIS?
 
As alternatives to the 12-60mm lenses I think these deserves a look before being dismissed...

Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8... Power OIS.


I have the MK1 which I bought used. I like the f2.8 throughout the zoom range as it gives a FF (FF at f5.6) type look from a MFT zoom and can help to keep the ISO down in lower light. I think it is a good lens.

I also have this one which I can recommend as it's tiny and sharp from wide open. You can buy a used one for £60-£70.


I'm not a great zoom user so I'd probably go for a prime, something in the 14 to 25mm range.

Good luck choosing.
I take it Prime lenses have a fixed single point?
Do you have to double all the zoom specs on Pana lenses? For instance my 100 - 300 is actually a 200 - 600
 
As I understood it, the Mega OIS takes control and you don't get the IBIS?
I'm talking about lenses with no stabilisation apart from the 12-35 which haa ois.
More specifically the Olympus 12-45 and 12-40, both excellent lenses which work well on Panasonic cameras.
 
I'm talking about lenses with no stabilisation apart from the 12-35 which haa ois.
More specifically the Olympus 12-45 and 12-40, both excellent lenses which work well on Panasonic cameras.
so the Olympus lenses use the in built IBIS on a Panasonic? Is this good stabilisation without the Power OIS of the Pana lenses?
 
I take it Prime lenses have a fixed single point?
Do you have to double all the zoom specs on Pana lenses? For instance my 100 - 300 is actually a 200 - 600

Prime lenses have a fixed focal length such as 12 or 60mm, whereas zooms cover a range of focal length like 12-60mm.

Advantages of primes can include a wider aperture and sometimes they can be smaller than zooms and traditionally they had better image quality but that may not always be true as there are some excellent zooms these days. Zoom lenses have the advantage of being able to give you different focal lengths without changing lenses.

Panasonic and other Micro Four Thirds cameras use a smaller sensor than that used in FF cameras and they have a x2 crop factor compared to "Full Frame 35mm" so a 17mm lens on MFT equates to a 34mm lens on FF.

For old fuddy duddies who grew up with film it's sometimes helpful to think about the crop factor to help understand it all. For example I liked my 35mm lens on my RF but on MFT that would be the equivalent of 70mm so I'd need to buy a 17mm lens to use on MFT to get the same field of view I'd get from a 35mm on that old film RF. So, in that sense although your 100-300mm is definitely a 100-300mm lens and nothing can change that... because that's what it is... it gives the same field of view as a 200-600mm lens would on FF because MFT uses a smaller sensor. The crop factor also works for depth of field and a 17mm lens at f4 will give the same depth as a 35mm lens at f8 on FF.

Light gathering is the same across formats and it doesn't change and there's no crop factor for exposure. If a MFT set up gives a good exposure at 17mm, f4, 1/200 and ISO 200 the FF set up to get the same field of view and exposure will be 35mm, f4, 1/200 and ISO 200. The only difference will be that the FF system will have shallower depth of field.

This is all just for people like me who're stuck in the past and younger people and those who don't have to think back 30 years to understand things needn't bother too much with all this unless they move to another format like APS-C or FF and want to use similar lenses. They then might want to think about crop factors to work out what lenses they want to buy.

Hope that helps :D
 
Prime lenses have a fixed focal length such as 12 or 60mm, whereas zooms cover a range of focal length like 12-60mm.

Advantages of primes can include a wider aperture and sometimes they can be smaller than zooms and traditionally they had better image quality but that may not always be true as there are some excellent zooms these days. Zoom lenses have the advantage of being able to give you different focal lengths without changing lenses.

Panasonic and other Micro Four Thirds cameras use a smaller sensor than that used in FF cameras and they have a x2 crop factor compared to "Full Frame 35mm" so a 17mm lens on MFT equates to a 34mm lens on FF.

For old fuddy duddies who grew up with film it's sometimes helpful to think about the crop factor to help understand it all. For example I liked my 35mm lens on my RF but on MFT that would be the equivalent of 70mm so I'd need to buy a 17mm lens to use on MFT to get the same field of view I'd get from a 35mm on that old film RF. So, in that sense although your 100-300mm is definitely a 100-300mm lens and nothing can change that... because that's what it is... it gives the same field of view as a 200-600mm lens would on FF because MFT uses a smaller sensor. The crop factor also works for depth of field and a 17mm lens at f4 will give the same depth as a 35mm lens at f8 on FF.

Light gathering is the same across formats and it doesn't change and there's no crop factor for exposure. If a MFT set up gives a good exposure at 17mm, f4, 1/200 and ISO 200 the FF set up to get the same field of view and exposure will be 35mm, f4, 1/200 and ISO 200. The only difference will be that the FF system will have shallower depth of field.

This is all just for people like me who're stuck in the past and younger people and those who don't have to think back 30 years to understand things needn't bother too much with all this unless they move to another format like APS-C or FF and want to use similar lenses. They then might want to think about crop factors to work out what lenses they want to buy.

Hope that helps :D
Very interesting Alan, thank you.
 
If you decided to go for a 14-42, be patient, look on ebay, and find one with a camera attached.
From the middle of last December, up until Easter, I bought a G2, two G3s and a G5 all with 14-42 Mega OIS lenses for £50-£60, by bidding in the last few seconds. I lost dozens as well from being outbid, but patience eventually wins :)

And yes, Mega OIS "takes over" but it is still very good.

I also have an Olympus 14-42 that retracts when not in use and is very small, that cost less, no stabilisation but works OK on the G80, but distortions are not corrected.
I don't know which Olympus lenses fully integrate with Panasonic cameras.


The 12-60 is still the best though.
 
so the Olympus lenses use the in built IBIS on a Panasonic? Is this good stabilisation without the Power OIS of the Pana lenses?
Yes, the IBIS is very effective and works on five axis as opposed to the three with just the lens stabilisation.

Lens correction is an across brands MFT standard, I use Olympus lenses almost exclusively on my Panasonic cameras.
Can assure you that lenses such as the 12-45 and 12-40 make for excellent distortion free combinations.

One misnomer is an Olympus lens with ois automatically overrides the Panasonic camera IBIS
Its lens ois or nothing, using the 12-100 on a G9 is a good example of this.
Fortunately the lens stabiliser is very good and I never have any issues, probably my most used combo.

So much misinformation, another example being the Olympus Lens Fn button doesn't work with Panasonic, it does.
 
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