Pixapro (Godox) AD600 Modelling Light limitations?

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Dan
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I was photographing at a event and had a 2+ hour queue of people wanting their portraits taken..

From time to time the modelling light cut out and wouldn't come back on for about 10 minutes, which was a pain because it was the only significant source of light to get AF to lock consistently.

Does anyone understand the limitations with this?
 
Maybe overheating? just a guess. The weathers been hotter recently, might affect it. Might be worth carrying a cheap on camera video light for focus assist?
 
Maybe overheating? just a guess. The weathers been hotter recently, might affect it. Might be worth carrying a cheap on camera video light for focus assist?

Yes, overheating - sorry I'm now not sure what kind of answer expected, it overheated - it came back on when it cooled down sufficiently.

I get annoyed when equipment doesn't perform flawlessly, I wonder if profoto have over engineered their heatsinks for such occasions.
 
Simple answer - use two lights and alternate between them.

I briefly considered swapping it with the rim/hair light but with a 2 hour queue I was put under pressure to be fast, taking just enough time to to tell the subject to stand over the taped X and take a couple of shots.

Taking down the stands, swapping over the giant octobox and changing out the powers whilst everyone watched and waited wasn't something I considered for long, didn't really have much time to think.

Took about 880 photos using the lights in 2 hours, and these were photos 'on arrival' so people did not join the party until after they had their photo taken....

Then they went and joined the 45 minutes queue for a drink



my solution was to use manual focus which was the quickest option anyway
 
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I briefly considered swapping it with the rim/hair light but with a 2 hour queue I was put under pressure to be fast, taking just enough time to to tell the subject to stand over the taped X and take a couple of shots.

Taking down the stands, swapping over the giant octobox and changing out the powers whilst everyone watched and waited wasn't something I considered for long, didn't really have much time to think.

Took about 880 photos using the lights in 2 hours, and these were photos 'on arrival' so people did not join the party until after they had their photo taken....

Then they went and joined the 45 minutes queue for a drink



my solution was to use manual focus which was the quickest option anyway
What aperture? If they're on a taped X and you're on a tripod then you might get away without refocusing.
 
What aperture? If they're on a taped X and you're on a tripod then you might get away without refocusing.

F9.5 but only because i knocked it off f8 and not on a tripod as I quickly moved in for an upper body close up from a higher angle.
 
Maybe this is a ridiculous suggestion but could you use a cheap and nasty fan attached to the lightstand pointed at the light ....the ones you handhold on a hot day
 
Maybe this is a ridiculous suggestion but could you use a cheap and nasty fan attached to the lightstand pointed at the light ....the ones you handhold on a hot day

Maybe but it would take many hours of experimentation to work out whether it was effective or not.

This was also outdoors (though under cover) between the hours of 8pm and 10pm, so whilst we have had hot weather earlier in the day it wasn't in direct sun or anything.

1694606850230.jpeg
 
Why were you relying on a modeling light for focus? Could you not of had some other sort of constant light on to assist your focusing?
 
Why were you relying on a modeling light for focus? Could you not of had some other sort of constant light on to assist your focusing?

I didn't expect to be setup in area that would become dark, as it got darker I used it because it would work -but yes I suppose you're right, the modelling light probably isn't designed to assist with focus and is only to see the effect of the light source. Therefore I was using it incorrectly.

I guess I need something like this, about £200 with high capacity batteries that last 244 minutes

I have a mains powered LED panel, but can't rely on having access to mains.
 
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fwiw I was using an AD600Pro (on mains) at a group shoot just this week. The whole unit - not just the modelling light - overheated during one set.

They're very good but they're not quite up to the same level of abuse as the Elinchrom battery stuff.

I did an hour photoshoot with a musical comedy group.

Rapid fire shooting and light bounced around the walls and ceiling to make everything bright.

We stopped at the hour mark because the ad600 unit overheated.
 
Overheating, especially used inside enclosed light modifiers...whytruly professional gear comes with built-in fans to extract heat from within the enclosures!

There should be no need to refocus if position of the subject can be reasonably replicated to fall within the center area within the DOF zone. Many decades ago I used to shoot portratis at events in low light conditions with manual flash and an SLR which you could not dependably optically focus, so used zone focus and zone aperture selection.
 
No solution, but the AD300s I own have the same problem. Created an interesting scenario when I was explaining to students how a modelling light could be beneficial then have it turn off, the second the sentence was out of my mouth. I worked around it, but guessed it was an overheating thing at the time. Shame, as it's the reason I picked them over the AD200.
 
Back in 2000 I was using a red gunsight laser to get my camera to focus on the spot. It worked well, once I explained to the subject what the laser dot was for, and that it isn't on a gun. It was a simple job to remove the single dot from their clothing in each photo during POST.

Today, many camera light control transmitters have a red laser cross hatch pattern that can be switched on when needed. This cross hatch pattern lights only briefly during the camera focus cycle to assist with camera focus, not before, and not after, so the subjects in the photo don't even notice it and it is not on the photo taken either. All five of my Godox X Pro and X2T transmitters have this feature, with a slide switch on the right side to enable or disable it. The laser head itself is located behind a red plastic window in the neck, or below the battery compartment with a slot in the battery cover for it to shine through. Don't you all read the manuals to find these features?

Charley
 
Don't you all read the manuals to find these features?

Charley

Never! I play with them to find the features.

It's a Nikon transmitter on a Hasselblad camera, I did try the AF assist beam but it wouldn't activate and the Hasselblad itself doesn't have one either.
 
The autofocus assist requires communication with the camera to work properly. When the correct transmitter matches the camera, additional contacts in the hot shoe receive focus control signals through these contacts to activate and then turn off the laser. Camera and flash transmitter must match for this to work.

You could always resort to my old method of using a Laser Gunsight to put a red dot on the subject for the camera to focus on. It's quite easy to remove the dot in POST using Photoshop or any photo editing software. I had a bracket/handle attached to the tripod thread under the camera, that came up around the left side of the camera, and this modified laser gunsight was attached to the cold shoe that was mounted on the top of this bracket. An included push button on the back of the laser turned it on and off, so completely manual. When going to use it I always explained to the subject what it was and what I was doing, so they didn't think I was pointing a gun at them. Don't scare your subject.

The only modification that the laser needed was a small block of aluminum with grooves on the sides at the top for the laser to attach like it does to a gun, and the bottom portion filed to the shape of a male hot shoe like the bottom of a speedlite, so it would fit into any cold shoe that I chose to mount it to. The little cold shoe accessories with the 1/4-20 threaded hole in the bottom that are readily have a side adjustment to allow tightening the grip to prevent the laser block from sliding out during use, so one of these would be good to use wherever you wanted to add this laser to your rig or cage. If you won't be putting any light or other things on the camera hot shoe, the laser could be attached there as long as the bottom of the block was shaped correctly. I just used hand tools (files) when making mine, but started with a scrap small block of soft aluminum scrap that I found in my shop that was about the ideal size. A little flat black on it when completed made it look like the rest of my camera gear.

I'm not sure where this laser gunsight is, since I haven't used it in over 20 years, but I did find it in the pocket of a camera bag about 5 years ago, so it's still around here someplace. If I can find it, I'll post a photo or two, but it may be a day or so before I can even begin this search.

Charley
 
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