Pocket Wizard for Canon

Silver Simon

Silver Simon

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Hi, this may well come across as dumb but I'm totally confused as what units I need.

I'm looking for Pocket Wizards transmitter and receiver to use with a second body. I'm told the major difference between the PW II and the PW III is the PW III has many more channels.

I've been on ebay and found this page but I don't know what I'm looking at ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_s...+canon&_nkwusc=pocket+wizards+II+canon&_rdc=1

They seem a heck of a lot dearer than what people have been telling they would cost.

Any pointers would great, thanks.
 
Mark Anthony said:
They're the flex units, used when high speed sync and ettl is needed in a trigger (though much cheaper hss compatible triggers are available if that's what you need).

If just standard pocket wizards are what you're after then the plus3's have replaced the plus2's now and are around £220 a pair.
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Thanks but the 3's are not what I want, as I said they are over 'specced' for my needs. All I want them for is to put a second camera behind a goal. The ones I see are hundreds of pounds a pair, just too much. That's is why I want the PWII's. Maybe there are none available on ebay.

Thanks
 
Silver Simon said:
Thanks but the 3's are not what I want, as I said they are over 'specced' for my needs. All I want them for is to put a second camera behind a goal. The ones I see are hundreds of pounds a pair, just too much. That's is why I want the PWII's. Maybe there are none available on ebay.

Thanks
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The basic non-TTL PW triggers are way expensive, only really worth getting if you already have a few PWs and need reverse-compatibility on the frequency. Otherwise, just get a set of Yongnuo RF602 (with the camera trigger cable) £20 Amazon. Or any one of the numerous other similar options.
 
The reason I want one is to fire a second camera behind a goal at football. I therefore need the transmitter to fit on the hot shoe of my main camera and have an easy to use on/off switch. I need this as I don't want the camera shooting every time I activate the shutter on my main camera. I could end up with 200 shots of a keeper having a drink, scratching his head or sorting out a wedgy! :) Does the Yongnuo RF602 offer this please?

Thanks.
 
Silver Simon said:
The reason I want one is to fire a second camera behind a goal at football. I therefore need the transmitter to fit on the hot shoe of my main camera and have an easy to use on/off switch. I need this as I don't want the camera shooting every time I activate the shutter on my main camera. I could end up with 200 shots of a keeper having a drink, scratching his head or sorting out a wedgy! :) Does the Yongnuo RF602 offer this please?

Thanks.
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Yes, RF-602 will do that. Latest version has an on/off switch on the transmitter as well as receiver. Normally you don't need a switch on the TX as it's only active when the shutter release is pressed on the RF-602, but it saves wasting the battery if the button should get accidentally pushed in your bag. TBH though, in your situation, I'd probably just pull the TX backwards on the hot-shoe a smidge to break the contact rather than fiddle with the switch.

Then you need the right cable to attach RX to the remote camera, 5D3 and high end Canons needs this one on the top here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Yo...674090&sr=1-13&keywords=rf602+shutter+release If your remote camera is a consumer grade Canon, it may need a different plug. Some retailers sell RF-602 sets with all cables, or just the studio flash jack cable, or none at all. Check the ad.

Bear in mind that the two cameras won't fire in perfect sync, and the remote one will be a few ms behind (while the mirror rises and shutter opens). Only significant if you wanted to sync flash together, but there is a workaround for that if needs be (cumbersome though).
 
[quote="I'd probably just pull the TX backwards on the hot-shoe a smidge to break the contact rather than fiddle with the switch."[/quote]

Ah, now that is serious bad news I'm afraid. :( I have a Hahnel remote that works perfectly well, however it does not have an on/off switch and I've tried having it on the hotshoe permanently and pulling it back when not needed then pushing it over the contacts when needed. This caused major probs, as whilst I was doing this I couldn't use my main body. This is the primary reason I am looking to get another remote trigger.

The first and most important thing the unit MUST HAVE is an easy to use on/off switch on the transmitter.

Thanks.
 
Silver Simon said:
[quote="I'd probably just pull the TX backwards on the hot-shoe a smidge to break the contact rather than fiddle with the switch."
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Ah, now that is serious bad news I'm afraid. :( I have a Hahnel remote that works perfectly well, however it does not have an on/off switch and I've tried having it on the hotshoe permanently and pulling it back when not needed then pushing it over the contacts when needed. This caused major probs, as whilst I was doing this I couldn't use my main body. This is the primary reason I am looking to get another remote trigger.

The first and most important thing the unit MUST HAVE is an easy to use on/off switch on the transmitter.

Thanks.
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Lots of other options, maybe RF-603 has an easier on/off switch, or the YN 622 E-TTL triggers. My choice for a basic manual trigger would be Phottix Strato II. IMHO they're the best manual triggers on the market and the ones I use most. Fast sync speed (not that you need that here), lots of features including E-TTL pass-though, massive range if you wanted to cover the far goal, and an easy on/off switch on the side :thumbs: More expensive than 602, but much cheaper than PW3 and better I think, and comes with all cables http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phottix-Str...keywords=phottix+strato+ii#productDescription
 
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HoppyUK said:
Lots of other options, maybe RF-603 has an easier on/off switch, or the YN 622 E-TTL triggers. My choice for a basic manual trigger would be Phottix Strato II. IMHO they're the best manual triggers on the market and the ones I use most. Fast sync speed (not that you need that here), lots of features including E-TTL pass-though, massive range if you wanted to cover the far goal, and an easy on/off switch on the side :thumbs: More expensive than 602, but much cheaper than PW3 and better I think, and comes with all cables.
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Funny you should suggest those Richard, I've been on You tube looking at videos of the Yongnuos and somebody mentioned them. I've since done some research and they look as though they could be just the ticket. It has a simple on/off switch on the side, which, as I said is the most important feature I'm looking for. Not as pricey as the Wizards, so I think I have found what I need. Many thanks for your help, time to get the plastic out! :)
 
Arrived today a set of Phottix Strato II. They look just the thing I was after, looking forward to testing them this weekend. :) Thanks Richard
 
Silver Simon said:
Arrived today a set of Phottix Strato II. They look just the thing I was after, looking forward to testing them this weekend. :) Thanks Richard
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:thumbs:
 
Update: It worked a treat. As I said the on/off switch was a major issue. It's easy to get to and simple to use, just what I needed. Here are a couple of shots of goals going in.

The remote was to control the camera behind the net and was fixed onto the hot shoe on my main body.

1.

2.
 
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Sorted :)

Do they always play with a rugby ball? :D
 
Silver Simon said:
Oh yeah! I noticed that, who wouldn't!!! ;)

Is there anyway I can reshape it!? :D
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Maybe, maybe not. If it's common wide-angle 'volume anamorphosis' DxO has some clever software options for various kinds of distortion - scroll down here http://www.dxo.com/intl/photography/dxo-optics-pro/features/optical-corrections

On the other hand, in this case I think it's more movement distortion caused by the ball moving quickly sideways while the shutter is travelling vertically, as the goal posts don't look to bad - or probably a bit of both.
 
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