Polo sport, would 200mm on 1.3 crop body be enough?

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squarepeas

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Never been to a Polo match...
I have got a 70/200 f2.8L with 1D mk3.
Would this be enough to cover the event?
I would like to be able to capture players facial expression as well as the 'stick' and the ball.
If I have to use an extender - x1.4 or x2? I have heard that x2 mk1 is not a good optic.
 
Not really to be honest, as all you'd be able to shoot would be action near to your own goal line, even a 400 is too short for the far end of the field.

The ideal would be a 70-200 on one body and a 400 to 600 prime on another. I got away with a 100-400 on a 7D, giving the ability to crop quite heavily, and I know that Fabs uses a Sigma 150-500 (or 50-) for his stuff, but a prime gives you the ability to throw out what can often be quite a cluttered background (depending on the level of play).
 
I use a 200mm on a crop body for various sports events (not polo) and often find it way too short. As a result, I capture about half the action....
 
just checked Sigma 150-500 isn't sharp judging by fabs's cricket shoots. but canon 400mm f2.8L costs a kidney!
 
We have a customer who is currently covering a major polo tournament at Windsor. He's hired a Sigma 300-800mm and he reckons even that's barely long enough when the action is down the other end of the pitch.
 
squarepeas said:
how about 1200mm? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Canon-EF-1200...24604050?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item1e63df6692
I think it will be better off to have a unmanned 200mm at the other end, controlled by a pocket wizard.
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You wont be able to do that on a Polo field; the horses run out too far and a stand alone remote would be at risk of being knocked over unless it was very carefully sited.

It would also be of very little use. It's not like a football goal mouth where the action is concentrated, polo is a very fluid game and the chances of aiming and focusing a remote at the right target are minimal.

I like Stewart's idea of a 300-800 though!
 
Yes and No

All is not lost and you would capture some action if you are patient enough..Its not an ideal combo.. But a polo game lasts long enough for the action to come close enough plenty of times.. You couldnt guarantee captuing everyone or all the action.. But certainly you would get quite a few shots

Depends on what coverage you need.. if every player is expecting to be featured then your not going to manage it I fear.. but if your just getting a feel for the game you will get enough action...
 
(making notes...)
I have not done a Polo (or football) before, so it is a long shout to invest in quality 500mm or 800mm glasses. I am bouncing the idea of a 2x or even FD lens with converter to EF like this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RARE-CANON-FD...=UK_Lenses_Filters_Lenses&hash=item56444f72f5 (still costs as much as a 5Dmk2). Unless there is money in it, I am quite happy to just getting the feel of the game.
 
Firstly don't spend any money on new lenses until you've seen at least one game up close and personal, because it might well turn out to be a waste.

Secondly making money from polo photographs is very very hard. There are only eight players on the field, so event style sales don't work, and the press market is saturated.

There are a couple of guys that do polo commercially on here. I'll PM them to see if they want to comment.
 
You'll be able to get some decent stuff from the sidelines with a 70-200. I usually do at least 1 chukka from the sides, sometimes 2, in order to get a good variety of images.

Of course the head on "ride off" shots are the really cool ones. With 280mm you'll do ok with action near the goalmouth but you'll find yourself waiting around a lot for the action to come to you. Still, I cut my teeth in polo with an excellent sigma 100-300 which was super.

For real quality shots though, a 400 2.8 is the daddy. Mostly you'll be shooting in nice daylight so you could go for a smaller aperture long lens which would be cheaper, but you lose the amazing background blur the 2.8 gives.

Saying that though, the depth of field on a 400 2.8 at 2.8 is too shallow to get horse and rider in focus so you may end up at f/4 anyway.

I say give it a go with the 70-200 and extender. Find it's limits. Then maybe think about the 100-300 sigma or a 300 f4 both of which you can put an extender on.

Andy
 
Tobers said:
Then maybe think about the 100-300 sigma or a 300 f4 both of which you can put an extender on.
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the canon 300 f4 non is would be my choice every day of the week for the cheapest quality prime lens.. its fantastic!
 
Also, don't underestimate how far you can crop. Cropping is your friend. I had a front page of Polo Times with a ridiculously cropped picture and it looked awesome. I'll try and dig it out when I get a chance.
 
Tobers said:
You'll be able to get some decent stuff from the sidelines with a 70-200. I usually do at least 1 chukka from the sides, sometimes 2, in order to get a good variety of images.

Of course the head on "ride off" shots are the really cool ones. With 280mm you'll do ok with action near the goalmouth but you'll find yourself waiting around a lot for the action to come to you. Still, I cut my teeth in polo with an excellent sigma 100-300 which was super.

For real quality shots though, a 400 2.8 is the daddy. Mostly you'll be shooting in nice daylight so you could go for a smaller aperture long lens which would be cheaper, but you lose the amazing background blur the 2.8 gives.

Saying that though, the depth of field on a 400 2.8 at 2.8 is too shallow to get horse and rider in focus so you may end up at f/4 anyway.

I say give it a go with the 70-200 and extender. Find it's limits. Then maybe think about the 100-300 sigma or a 300 f4 both of which you can put an extender on.

Andy
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Great stuff Andy! This is some really good inside information. Really appreciated.

KIPAX said:
the canon 300 f4 non is would be my choice every day of the week for the cheapest quality prime lens.. its fantastic!
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I have a prime FD 300/5.6, maybe can try that with slide/use as a backup.

Tobers said:
Also, don't underestimate how far you can crop. Cropping is your friend. I had a front page of Polo Times with a ridiculously cropped picture and it looked awesome. I'll try and dig it out when I get a chance.
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Looking forward to it.

Also thanks a lot Mark - for bringing Andy over here.

The local polo club is literally 10 mins driving distance away. I have been speaking to the manager a very friendly guy. I plan to visit them as much as I can since the tournament season is just starting.
 
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Thanks Mark for the PM.

Coming to the table a bit late, but it looks like Tobers has given you good advice. I shoot with two bodies, one with 70-200 and the other with 300 f2.8 and a 1.4 convertor, giving me 420mm on F/F at f4. I do 1st two chukkas from the side and last two down by the goal. If the polo manager is ok with you down by the goal, one rule, don't move when the horses are coming at you. 99% of the time you will be fine, but if you move the odds will change against you, and you will get hurt...badly!
Be prepared to spend a lot of time shooting nothing, just have to accept thats the way it is. :)
 
treeman said:
Thanks Mark for the PM.

Coming to the table a bit late, but it looks like Tobers has given you good advice. I shoot with two bodies, one with 70-200 and the other with 300 f2.8 and a 1.4 convertor, giving me 420mm on F/F at f4. I do 1st two chukkas from the side and last two down by the goal. If the polo manager is ok with you down by the goal, one rule, don't move when the horses are coming at you. 99% of the time you will be fine, but if you move the odds will change against you, and you will get hurt...badly!
Be prepared to spend a lot of time shooting nothing, just have to accept thats the way it is. :)
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I promise I will be brave and will not run away :lol: I checked your port, really nice captures.
btw how close you can get at the goalmouth position? Any special etiquette, such like dressing code need to follow?
 
squarepeas said:
I promise I will be brave and will not run away :lol: I checked your port, really nice captures.
btw how close you can get at the goalmouth position? Any special etiquette, such like dressing code need to follow?
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My advice, if you're not too familiar with the game, is to shoot from the sidelines, for the first couple of games, to get a feel of things. The sidelines are in fact not at the little wooden boards around the field, but a further 10 yds back from that. if you get to the goal, then stand on the same line as the Goal Judge, but to one side or the other of the goal posts and well out of his/her way, as they need to move around quickly.
I wouldn't worry too much about dress code, unless directed otherwise. I've done three matches with royals in, and only ever been asked to wear smart trousers and shirt for those.

Main thing is to enjoy it, and maybe try and get some good shots of anything else going on, horses by the lorries etc. The Argentinian grooms can often be great characters too :)
 
Tobers said:
a 400 2.8 is the daddy.

Saying that though, the depth of field on a 400 2.8 at 2.8 is too shallow to get horse and rider in focus so you may end up at f/4 anyway.
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interesting to see 300mm/f4, 300mm/f2.8 and 400mm/f2.8 are being short-listed.
I have a little bit more look into the glasses - 400/f2.8, really nice one.
Is IS really needed? on 70-200, it is suggested to turned of IS if mounted on tripod. And 400/f2.8 is always needed to be mounted on a solid tripod.
 
Well, I used a 400 f/2.8 for the nationals last year very adequately. You simply cannot photograph the whole field, just as in football or rugby... But 400 is a good length, very fast focusing speed as well...
 
Back in the late 1970's when I did some Polo photography at Cirencester Park (when Prince Charles played quite a bit) I used to hire a 500mm lens for my Pentax second body, with a shorter lens on the first body for closer work. As others have said, you need to go to some matches and get a feel for the action and where good action is usually located; it is just not possible to cover the whole field of play whatever kit you have.

Its a great game so enjoy...

Anthony.
 
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