Portrait lighting

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Al
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I was wondering what would work better for a portrait shooting? Flash on hot shoe, on stand or an actual continuous light? I hope I asked this correctly. The shot would be a headshot type photo.
 
To be honest, for sensible options we really need to know what type of portrait you are wanting to take. A headshot type photo does not really offer enough information. If it is for a passport it is important that you cast no shadows at all (even gentle ones).

Also what type of flashgun do you have? where are you planning on shooting the image (indoors or out)?, what accesories do you have for the flashgun (if any, reflector, brolly, softbox)? What background are you planning on using? How big is the area you are shooting in (if indoors)?

So, give us some more information, and we can give you some ideas.
 
Indoor shooting, black or white background No flashgun. No accessories. I have a very large room with high ceilings. 18 ft x 18 ft room ceiling about 9 feet or moor high. For a brochure & other general use.
 
Indoor shooting, black or white background No flashgun. No accessories. I have a very large room with high ceilings. 18 ft x 18 ft room ceiling about 9 feet or moor high. For a brochure & other general use.

So from this I am assuming that you are looking for guidance about what lighting to purchase to take your portraits.

If you are going to be using the lighting specifically in the environment as suggested above my suggestion would be to purchase some Studio Flash Heads, a decent sized softbox and a couple of brollies. This would give you some versatility, although the quality of the equipment will depend somewhat on how much money you wish to spend.

You could purchase a couple of cheap Chinese studio flash heads with a softbox, brollies and stands from ebay from about £160 or so (I have a couple of these that I use as occasional fill-ins or bg lights) , but personally I would probably suggest a 2 or 3 head outfit from a major manufacturer such as Bowens or Elincrom (I have 3 Elinchrom 400BX heads) but this will set you back in the region of £500+. There are some cheaper outfits on the market from both these suppliers and others but I do not have any experience of them.

Personally I would not use continuos lighting unless cost is a major isssue, it can be uncomfortable for a model when on for any length of time (heat build up), can be difficult to colour balance with ambient light (if you ever decide you need to).

What you should budget for though is a reasonable Flash Meter and I would suggest that you look for one that you can also use for ambient light (both incident and reflected).

As for technique, there are many examples of what to do to get good results on the internet, and if you can put up with the Geordie accent and can spare the time I would have a look through the series of videos on youtube, search for Studio Lighting demonstration by Ken Henderson APAGB

Hope this helps.
 
TBH, I don't think there is one answer to this, or one recipe.

I have been looking into this subject for nearly a year now, and each and every photographer will tell you a different way of doing it. But it's what works for them, their equipment, their camera, their style, their room and their client.

I've looked at dozens of DVD's, tons of YouTube's, countless websites and loads of books, and not one of them gives the same answer.

I have come to the conclusion that you must use lighting position, a good light meter and loads of wasted shots before you can answer this yourself.

I plan on doing this over the next few weeks when my softboxes arrive (I've opted for the beginner safe cold continuous lighting) to figure all this out for myself.

There are some very good (and some not so good) YouTube videos out there, have a look through -- 'Studio Lighting' search will give you plenty.

HTH:thinking:
 
Ratzz, I see the same thing. The videos on Youtube are never the same set up though it would seem that I could actually get away with one of the set ups, but I think my nxt purchase for sure would be a softbox.

In the meantime I think I will conduct my own test with what I have & see what happens.

Thanks, your replies help me go in the right direction.


Time to learn to use a light meter too.
 
but I think my nxt purchase for sure would be a softbox.

In the meantime I think I will conduct my own test with what I have & see what happens.

Thanks, your replies help me go in the right direction.


Time to learn to use a light meter too.

Hang on a minute, I asked earlier what lighting gear you had and you said quote "Indoor shooting, black or white background No flashgun. No accessories. I have a very large room with high ceilings. 18 ft x 18 ft room ceiling about 9 feet or moor high. For a brochure & other general use."

So what are you going to light this softbox you buy with?
 
looking at options & sizes, I don't know alot about this but i figure if I stick with a mid range size & light source it should be sufficient.
 
Well, you have an SB-600, so why not use that?

SB-600 in a 40" softbox/umbrella to camera right

3068935969_6e0da2c04e.jpg
 
Well, you have an SB-600, so why not use that?

SB-600 in a 40" softbox/umbrella to camera right

3068935969_6e0da2c04e.jpg



Me likey!

Omg, I have an umbrella too.

What materials would I need to pull this off?
 
Go to the Bowens website, and sign up for the Bowens Light Book (It's free)

There's a section in there "Hough to" by Christian Hough which will provide some basic lighting setups with diagrams of how to arrange everything, and examples of how the shots should look.

But....
You need to spend time working with them and getting a feel for the results, you'll not get the same results straight off.
 
Thanky!

Will do right away.

Trial and error.I gotta learn to burn.
 
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