PROBLEM - ARRI light - 16 amp > 13amp adapter

wblati

wblati

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I recently received some ARRI lights but unfortunately didn't come with an adapter to plug into a 13amp socket.

anyone know where in London would stock some 16amp > 13amp adapters. I need to get 2 by Friday.

or anyone here (living in London) have 2 for sale.

Thanks.
 
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thanks

seems to be quite close - park royal and can collect within an hour.
 
just bought the adapter - once I plug it in I think I blew a fuse and the light died.

written on the cable attached to the light is:
16A - 110v - 2P+E

and on the adapter:
16a - 6h
200 - 250v
50-60Hz 2P+E
E884175
BS EN 60309
 
Looks as if your problem might be the lamp is 110 Volts, if so you might have blown the bulb.
 
wblati said:
just bought the adapter - once I plug it in I think I blew a fuse and the light died.

written on the cable attached to the light is:
16A - 110v - 2P+E

and on the adapter:
16a - 6h
200 - 250v
50-60Hz 2P+E
E884175
BS EN 60309
Click to expand...
That light needs a transformer not an adaptor.
 
just took the bulb out and it is indeed gone.

is the fuse gone as well or can I put it back in?
 
If it is a 110 volt one the bulb is toast, still only needs replacing with a 240 volt one.as far as I know there are no electronics in these Lamp Heads.
 
Should say what voltage and wattage on the base of the bulb.
 
dizidav said:
If it is a 110 volt one the bulb is toast, still only needs replacing with a 240 volt one.as far as I know there are no electronics in these Lamp Heads.
Click to expand...
If that's true, the OP is onto a winner.
 
Most of the Arri lights are rated 110-230 volt, can be a bit misleading if you dont look at the bulb.
 
so all I need to do now is just replace the bulbs?

did I buy the right adapters? is the fuse in the adapter where the bulb blew still ok?

sorry for all the questions - you can tell I am no electrician.
 
Right some of my power tools are 110v compared to the standard 240v. In this instance I have to use one of these.

Now I don't know if your lights are 110V or 240V, if they are from the U.S. then a very high chance that they will be 110v rated.

What's the model number of your lights?
 
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wblati said:
did I buy the right adapters? is the fuse in the adapter where the bulb blew still ok?
Click to expand...
The adaptor looks fine.
Nobody here can tell you if the fuse has blown. You will have to test it to find that out. A simple continuity tester (can be found built into some neon-type screwdrivers) or ordinary cheap digital multimeter (can be had for a fiver) would be fine for this.
 
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wblati said:
I recently received some ARRI lights
Click to expand...
Arri make excellent lights. Very good, robust and reliable.

However, they make LED, HMI, Tungsten and Fluorescent heads.
Everyone so far has presumed that you have two tungsten-lamped units, and I'm also guessing that this is the case - especially given your mention above of "just took the bulb out and it is indeed gone.".
However you haven't actually told us what you have. It might matter, so please tell us the type and model number of the units you have.

I'm also presuming that you bought these second-hand.
If so (and especially if, as it seems, you are not familiar with this stuff) I would strongly advise that you get these units checked by a competent electrician even if they look in good nick, and that you also get them PAT (Portable Appliance Test) Tested before using them.
I have PAT tested probably thousands of tungsten fresnel, profile, PAR and flood lights over the years. Even if they look OK (with apparently good cabling, sound earth bonds and undamaged connectors) there can still be hidden problems that will show up in the relevant PAT test.

Most professionally run venues (studios, theatres etc) will not even let you use equipment of this type unless you can provide an up to date PAT certificate (or unless all equipment has up to date PAT labels attached and they have reasonable cause to believe you).
Oh, and you'll need to test your lights, your cables and your adaptors. Seriously.
 
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If it's an ARRI Tungsten Lamp (we need the part number to check) then they usually have 110v, 230v and (sometimes) 120/230v bulbs available.

E.g. the ARRI 300 Plus datasheet lists: CP81 FSL 300 W / 230 V ; CP81 FKW 300 W / 120 V

So you could just replace the blown bulb with the 230v variant.

However, I'd also suggest you get the Lamps and the RCDs you run them on tested, that you read the ARRI safety sheets for the lamps (especially the safe operating distances) and that you replace the bulbs properly (you should wear cotton gloves - oils from your skin can cause a weak spot in the bulb and at these temperatures explode).
 
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