question about macro lenses to go with my sigma 105mm ?

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hi guys just a quick question i already have a Sigma MACRO 105mm f/2.8 EX DG for my macro work however i would like to get closer.


i was going to get some extension tubes like these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170239346356&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fitems%2F%3F_nkw%3D170239346356%26_in_kw%3D1%26_ex_kw%3D%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_udlo%3D%26_udhi%3D%26_sabdlo%3D%26_sabdhi%3D%26_samilow%3D%26_samihi%3D%26_ftrt%3D901%26_ftrv%3D1%26_sadis%3D200%26_fpos%3D%26LH_SALE_CURRENCY%3D0%26_fvi%3D1


would these fit on my canon eos d300 with the sigma 105mm lens? as read someware you have to mod the tubes to fit??

however also seen 2X Tele Converters
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vivitar-2X-AUTO-Tele-Converter-Canon-Digital-AF_W0QQitemZ160259404972QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160259404972&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

which one do i go for for closer pictures of macro work ? or can you combine the 2 together .

im trying to get closest picture possible for macro shots with my Sigma MACRO 105mm f/2.8 EX DG lens.

hope someone can advize.
 
it does fit with 300d.

you dont need to mod the tubes unless your lens is EF-S.
Sigma 105mm Macro is EF so its okay.

You could combine both tubes and tele :D
 
I've used Tubes with my 105mm - if you get some get the Kenko ones, the cheap ebay ones fit poorly, one thing you will notice is the light drop off as you add more tubes, you will need a ringflash or macro flash to get any type of DOF, with a full set of tubes anything above f5.6 and i cant see the subject on anything other than very bright days.
 
For Macro work tele converters arnt what you want. Extension tubes are.

Extension tubes do aid light loss, so a nice brightly lit subject is a good idea (or a flash on a cable).
Tele convs add more glass in the way and invariably add more distortion, plus you lose light.
 

These tubes will fit but they are sections which screw together and then have attachments for each end to mate with the body and lens.

They are cheaply made and the screw portions have the added danger of releasing small amounts of aluminium debris into your camera body.

A set of Kenko tubes is probably the best way forwards.

Bob
 
ok thanks guys im still learning about macro work so just bit confused on few things so thanks for the help.

as for flash im just useing the built in flash on camera i gather this is no good for macro work ? can i ask whats so bad about the built in flash?? is no good for macro???



what advantages do you get with addon flash units ?
 
ok thanks guys im still learning about macro work so just bit confused on few things so thanks for the help.

as for flash im just useing the built in flash on camera i gather this is no good for macro work ? can i ask whats so bad about the built in flash?? is no good for macro???



what advantages do you get with addon flash units ?

When you are using tubes you will be that close to the subject to focus the lens will cast a shadow when using the on-board flash.
 
ok thanks guys im still learning about macro work so just bit confused on few things so thanks for the help.

as for flash im just useing the built in flash on camera i gather this is no good for macro work ? can i ask whats so bad about the built in flash?? is no good for macro???

what advantages do you get with addon flash units ?


The problems with the built in flash are:
- It's can be too low power
- It's a fixed position
- It's intended to be used at focal lengths > 1m (macro is generally < 30cm ish)
so most of the light will miss what you are aiming at
- It's too harsh a light and it's not easy to fit a diffuser to one (but you can use a milk bottle and some sticky tape, but that reduces incident light even more)
- The lens can/will get in the way and block the light/cast a shadow

You can get around lots of these problems with anything from:
- External flash (with diffuser) on camera
- External flash on a cord (with diffuser) <<<< I use this option
- Multiple external flashes (on a macro bracket)
- Macro ring flashes (loadsa wonga needed)
 
ok thanks mate.


a know a shop local to me selling a CANON 420EZ SPEED LIGHT FLASH pretty cheap but guess this wont be any good for macro ? :thinking:
 
i am no expert but am learning fast due to advice from the good people here.
from reading and asking in the last few weeks i determined the best set up as Kenko tubes with my Sigma 105. I am very happy with the set up at using the extra 36mm.
When i feel more accomplished i will aquire a mpe65 or something.
I have the DCR-250 as mentioned upthread and think it is exellent (Dcr-150 on order)
I have an off camera bracket and flash for now which does the trick
Hope this helps
 
ok thanks i did notice the cheaper ones on ebay are 9mm, 16mm, 30mm lens

the kenko are 12 mm, 20 mm, and 36 mm

im not really bothered about brands etc as m just starting macro, so just want some cheaper version for now.

questions is the cheaper version tube has 30mm and kenko 36mm does this mean the kenko has more zoom than the cheaper version as kenko is 36mm?

also heard with cheaper tubes theres no metering & hard to see any light at all with tubes so what guess will need to buy a decent flash afterwards.

sorry to ask im still learning.
 
If you want better than 1:1 why not try dioptres - Hoya do a reasonably priced set - a good way of buiding up to the MP lens - they do have some benefits over tubes IMO
 
what benefits do they have over tubes?? are they expensive ?

as heard its not good adding more glass for macro shots.
 
The problems with the built in flash are:
- Macro ring flashes (loadsa wonga needed)

I bought a SUNTAX one on ebay for my Canons (5D & 30D) for under £100 delivered, they offer ETTL and have a guide number of 14 at ISO100. It is brilliant. There are other similar specced models for both Canon and Nikon available generally around the £100 mark including shipping.
 
what benefits do they have over tubes?? are they expensive ?

as heard its not good adding more glass for macro shots.

I'd stay away from the dioptre lens, sticking these onto a true macro lens is only going to reduce quality (the only ones I've seen produce good results are the Raynox ones which are used by some of the TP members.) Tubes have the advantage that IQ is not affected as there's no glass to comprise the quality but you will get a loss of light.
 
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