question about Sigma 150-500 & f#

Comfortably Numb

Comfortably Numb

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Daron
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I'm considering getting a Sigma 150-500 for wildlife.

My next longest lens is 70-200 f4L. Obviously the new lens is slower at f 6.3 & I have been stopping the 70-200 down to f 6.3 to try out & get a feel for the slower shutter speed.

However, my question is, will the drop in shutter speed on the Canon @ 200mm be equal on the Sigma @ 500mm.
 
Aye, f number is the same in terms of exposure BUT at the longer focal length you need a faster shutter speed to stop blur.
 
To add to what's been said, the camera will meter differently for the two lenses. Because there will be less in the frame on the 150-500 at the long end, you may get subtly different shutter speeds than you do on your 70-200. But f6.3 is f6.3 (To a reasonable degree of accuracy anyway).
 
when the sigma's set to 200mm you can expect the same kind of delivery in term of shutter speed, depth of field etc. But it will create a different effect at a longer focal length. As already said, the shutter speed will need to be faster to combat camera shake (although the OS on the lens is pretty good). But in terms of depth of field there will be a difference.

for example: At a distance of 25 foot, a lens set to 200m f6.3 will have a DoF of 1.12 feet, whereas at the same aperture a lens at 500mm will have a DoF of only 0.17 feet.
 
Thmaga said:
To add to what's been said, the camera will meter differently for the two lenses. Because there will be less in the frame on the 150-500 at the long end, you may get subtly different shutter speeds than you do on your 70-200. But f6.3 is f6.3 (To a reasonable degree of accuracy anyway).
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not if your using center point metering, only with evaluative metering.

it also makes a difference with the body you are using - you really need something that handles high ISO's well for dull days. and yes you are emulating what will happen with the 150-500mm - shutter / iso / aperture.
 
Thanks for your replies.

I realise stopping action is going to be a problem but am hoping OS will allow me to get sharp results when the light is mediocre, presuming I can get a "sharp copy"!

The dof is a good point, especially as I'll probably need to stop down to get really sharp results, from what I read. Accurate af is going to be crucial.

A lot to think about still, I think.
 
There are quite noticeable contrast differences between my 70-200 f2.8 and my Sigma 150-500 which means I do have to try and compensate for when I'm switching between both lenses.
 
Paul, I'll be using a 40d which is pretty good at high iso.

I saw your shots of the flower pot at various lengths, it clearly can produce sharp results if used carefully.

Did you handpick or just get lucky?
 
Comfortably Numb said:
Paul, I'll be using a 40d which is pretty good at high iso.

I saw your shots of the flower pot at various lengths, it clearly can produce sharp results if used carefully.

Did you handpick or just get lucky?
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fleabay luckyness for a bargain £500 :cool: i took a chance before going for a canon 100-400mm and decided to keep it -

love the user name - favorite Floyd track - best played from vynal , very loud in a darkened room
 
Dogfish_magnet said:
fleabay luckyness for a bargain £500 :cool: i took a chance before going for a canon 100-400mm and decided to keep it -

love the user name - favorite Floyd track - best played from vynal , very loud in a darkened room
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Jammy!:D

Plenty of Floyd fans on here, I reckon it's only a matter of time before someone requests a Pink Floyd related sub-forum:cautious:
 
Comfortably Numb said:
Thanks for your replies.

1. I realise stopping action is going to be a problem but am hoping OS will allow me to get sharp results when the light is mediocre, presuming I can get a "sharp copy"!

2. The dof is a good point, especially as I'll probably need to stop down to get really sharp results, from what I read. Accurate af is going to be crucial.

A lot to think about still, I think.
Click to expand...


1. The OS will greatly reduce camera shake but can do nothing to reduce subject movement. It can be a matter of compromise between high ISO noise to reduce subject movement and a (possibly) low keeper rate caused by subject movement.

2. Ideally, you'll want to be at f/8 or narrower (f/6.3 is useable but a little soft for pixel peepers) so you'll get a bit more DoF than there is at f/6.3 but beware of slow shutter speeds and subject movement.
 
Hi

I use the 150-500 on a 7D. Handheld you need to keep the shutter speed up above 400sec. On a tripod with cable release it can achieve great results.

Some examples

1/20 f8 500mm

4779614923_e492308273_b.jpg


1/160 f8 500mm

4780245634_77e19293e8_b.jpg


Let me know if you need any more info.

Marty
 
Cracking pics ,Marty.

The kingfisher is on my hitlist. I've found where one hangs out, need to stake him out
& point a new lens at him!
 
Thanks Daron. There are more on the bird forum.

Kingies become very addictive be careful.

Get your self a hide as well, you will need one.

Good luck.
 
I don't think this lens will ever satisfy pixel peepers but fill the frame (which should be easier given you've got 500mm) and you'll have excellent printable results, the OS works wonders too :)
 
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