Question about the 100-400

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Dex
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Evening all

I am currently looking for a 100-400 but after googling ive seen quite a few people saying theirs is soft at 400 but then would this be down to user error and possible use of a filter on the lens or is their duff lenses out there.
Am I worrying for no reason and that whatever 100-400 I do get will be sharp once you learn how to work arround its limitations.

Help me
Dex
 
It could be down to user error or filters in some cases but there are also some lenses where they're just not as sharp as others. It's the same as everything else, some instances of a product can get faulty or just not quite as good as others.

Whether canon would be able to fix that via a service is something else, but a slightly soft lens could still be within official tolerance limits. Get it from somewhere with a very good return service though and it's not such a worry.
 
Thanks both, the most stupidest question that I am probaley ever going to ask but does a lens ever lose its sharpness? Sorry for the really silly question.
 
I'm happy with the 100-400 results in terms of sharpness at 400 and find it's a very versatile lens to have.

Just a few randoms @400......

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I've discussed 100-400's with a few owners that have been selling theirs and one of them said their first was very sharp across the full range, they sold it and got another a couple of years later that was significantly softer then ended up getting a different one later again and that was as good as the first.

From what I've read the soft copies used to be more common but in more recent times (got the impression it's the last few years) it's tightened up. That's just what I've gathered from looking into getting one myself for the past year or so, but at the end of the day I've never pressed the button on purchasing one.

ps, dinners, that looks like one of the very sharp ones you ended up with. Nice photo's.
 
The 100-400mm does have its issues, but it's a very versatile lens. As for copies being soft, this is usually wide open at 400mm @ f5.6 If you stop it down an f-stop or 2 there shouldn't be a problem. Unfortunately it's IS system is 1st generation and there are several challengers on the market that have better OS systems like the sigma 50/150-500mm lenses, but the canon 100-400mm has been going strong for 12/13 years, so that does say something about how good the lens is.
 
Thaks for the images Phil, those are pin sharp, can I buy your lens :D.
Thanks everyone for the comments, has certainly given me some food for thought.
 
There is usually a huge variation in lenses of the same description. You may find a pretty sharp one, but the overall trend is that 400mm 5.6L prime beats them easily for resolution (but not versatility)
 
When people talk about a lens being soft at a certain focal length, what exactly does it mean??
Can it generally be seen in a normal size photograph or is not visible until image is blown up or is it just seen from pixel peeping!!
Would be nice to see an example of a soft and sharp image to see the difference and wether Jo blogs doing it for a hobby photographer needs to worry about it!!!
 
When people talk about a lens being soft at a certain focal length, what exactly does it mean??
Can it generally be seen in a normal size photograph or is not visible until image is blown up or is it just seen from pixel peeping!!
Would be nice to see an example of a soft and sharp image to see the difference and wether Jo blogs doing it for a hobby photographer needs to worry about it!!!

1. That a zoom lens will be sharper at some focal length settings (or a range of settings) than at others. It seems quite common that consumer level zooms are typically softer at the long end, but even professional grade (or expensive at least) lenses can still suffer the same issues.

2. Define "normal size photo". A 6x4 print as you might have once got in the old days would rarely reveal problems unless it was taken from a heavily cropped original. But print at 12x8 or 19x13 for the wall, for example, or larger still for a gallery and you might find the quality to be unacceptable. Pixel peeping is kind of like making a 30x20 print, or maybe even larger, and then viewing it from ridiculously close, which can reveal flaws you might not see at more conventional presentation sizes or viewing distances. However, if you want to make a judgement on lens quality, such as when buying one second hand, I personally would want to see 100% crops without edits so that I could make a fair evaluation. Tiny little 800 pixel webshots can conceal a multitude of sins.

I seldom print, with most of my photos being displayed on a 40" 1920x1080 TV or 17" 1920x1080 laptop, so I need my pictures to be of sufficient quality to produce files which can fill those screens in one or both dimensions and still look sharp and clear. If they don't then they are of no use to me.

3. Here are two photos from my 100-400 at 400mm and f/5.6. The first one I'll only show at 100%, because it is plainly sharp to begin with, sharper still with a little tweaking, but would make a near useless photo when shrunk to 800 pixels....

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The second example is with quite similar settings, but with my 7D instead of my 5D2. At 100% and before edits it is an abomination....

20120807_142521_6258_LR-2.jpg


But give it a few tweaks and shrink it and you could almost call it usable....

20120807_142521_6258_LR.jpg


I don't know why it was so crap to begin with - shake (the shutter speed is slower and the magnification of the 7D file higher), misfocus, atmospheric muck - maybe a combination of all the above or something else, but as I said earlier, you might think it was a decent photo if you didn't know the ugly mess to begin with.

You can do an awful lot more with a properly sharp image in the first place, like crop it mercilessly or print/display it as huge size, but with a ropey image to begin with your options will be pretty limited. That's why I'd only be interested in 100% crops when judging a lens. An 800 pixel wide web shot is not going to tell me much at all.

My own experience of the 100-400 is that it does sharpen up further when stopped down, with the optimum being at around f/9, but when you're trying to shoot sports/action in low light f/9 isn't really the answer, so if those things interest you you really need the lens to be sharp (enough) wide open and at all focal lengths - or accept that you might not be able to make very large prints/displays from them.

Oh, sod it, here's the first image, full frame resized to 800x533. Enjoy. :D

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Well that deserves a thank you!! That's quite an in depth description!!
 
You're welcome. When I make the effort to reply I usually try to make the response well rounded and provide explanation and examples for my reasoning.

Here's another example (not mine) of the power of editing and downsizing to overcome or mask flaws in an original picture of less than stellar quality - again a demonstration of why you can't necessarily trust small, edited examples when trying to judge equipment performance....

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=15563983&postcount=2930
 
I've had no problems with mine, pin sharp at all of the zoom range over all f numbers. So good in fact I bought a second so my youngest had one. Initially it's different to use being a push-pull lens, but is so versatile and quick to zoom I wouldn't be without it.
I've shot robins in the garden at 400mm, f5.6 with my 50D and at 100% can see every detail on the feathers.

Its a really old lens now but stunning. Oh and ignore any talk about dust pumps. I've never had any issues with anything getting sucked inside it and I've used it in all weathers including torrential rain.
 
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