Quick quetion regarding my 100-400 isl

den

den

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Dennis
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Hi, i could anyone please give me a kind of do and dont's with my 100-400is l ,i use it a lot in AF and IS mode 1 and what i would like to know is can you still push and pull the lens while in AF mode or should you alweays switch to MF,also is it better to carry the lans via the camera battery grip or the tripod mount when using a black rapid strap , i have just got it back from repair and i want to make sure i am looking after it the best i can . Thanks
 
Af mode is auto focus, pushing/pulling the lens is to zoom it from 100 to 400mm.
you can switch to mf if you want to but then you will have to manually focus it once at the desired zoom.
just leave it on AF i do.
IS has two settings one for panning and one for all round IS so choose which one you want for a certain shot.

I always support the lens, so i have neck strap round my neck for the camera and my hand under the lens to support it.

hope this helps

spike
 
The most important bit of "care" advice I can offer is to always loosen off the zoom tension adjustment if you want to zoom the lens. After two years of ownership from new my tension mechanism started fragmenting and after a further year needed to go to Canon to be fixed at a cost of £127 at the time. Since the repair I always leave the tension ring fully loosened - it's quite firm even like that - and it really has been no problem. I also feel far more confident that I won't be seeing another repair bill for many years to come, if ever.

You can have the IS and focus in any mode you like and feel free to adjust focal length or manually override the focus.

As for Black Rapid mounts, I have connected via both the body and the lens with no ill effects. It does balance better and seems to make more sense to use the lens tripod mount rather than the camera body. If you've got a battery grip fitted then I'd definitely lean towards using the lens tripod mount rather than the grip.
 
I wouldn't move the focus ring when it's in AF

Because that way you're twisting the motor against it's will...

Might be worth sticking a protection filter on the end if you want too ( i do this for rain, and any dusty events ( rallying ) )


EDIT: Sorry i read your question wrongly
 
You can move the focus ring without changing from AF to MF as this lens has 'full time manual focus'.

Say (for example) you're using a body without the best AF to photograph a bird amongst branches yet the AF keeps hitting leaves - you can very quickly adjust focus yourself without switching the AF off.

As for pushing / pulling the lens to adjust focal length - I leave AF on and kind of do the two together.
 
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inlineadam said:
I wouldn't move the focus ring when it's in AF

Because that way you're twisting the motor against it's will...
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Utter bull. The lens has a ring USM motor and allows manual focus override at all times. If you use back button focusing then the argument is rendered moot, but frankly there is no argument in the first place.

Scroll down this page to the section headed "Ultrasonic focusing" - http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Pro...Telephoto_Zoom/EF_100-400mm_f4.5-5.6L_IS_USM/

inlineadam said:
Might be worth sticking a protection filter on the end if you want too ( i do this for rain, and any dusty events ( rallying ))
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For nasty conditions I agree a filter might be a wise precaution, although that hood does a pretty good job of shielding the lens from many physical contact risks. However, the lens is not weather sealed, so personally I would rarely use it in rainy conditions and certainly not without a rain cover. If I did then the odds are I would not be pointing the lens upwards in any case - I don't see much point shooting with the front element (or filter) covered in rain - so rain really should not be reaching the front element.

But it's worth a note that fitting any sort of filter to the 100-400 may well have a visible negative impact on IQ, especially at the long end. There are many reports on the internet of IQ going downhill fast with this lens if a filter is fitted. I would only ever use a filter when there was a genuine risk of flying mud, gravel, sand, sea spray etc.. For everyday use I never use a filter (other than a CPL) on any lens.

Recent discussion about filters in general - http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=334373. I'm sure a bit of Googling will turn up examples specific to the 100-400.
 
I'll second tdodd's comment on using a filter on the 100-400. When I first got mine I was disappointed at how soft it was - I then read up about it not really taking a filter well so tried it without - there was a significant improvement so I also avoid using a filter unless conditions dictate - more than happy with it now!
 
With regards to tdodd saying the lens is not weather sealed I have just contacted Canon's support to clarify and received this in reply.

L-series quality
Incorporates Canon’s highest standards of precision engineering and optical superiority. The L-series is Canon’s flagship professional lens range, combining outstanding image definition and ultimate performance with all-weather construction to prevent dust and moisture ingress.

Just thought it would give Tim, myself and everybody else some peace of mind. Will try my 100-400 without a filter next time I use it, but mine is pretty sharp with one.
 
It is not fully weather sealed. Apologies for the hand held 1/4 second "macro" shot, but please note the rubber O-ring present on the 70-200/2.8 L IS and the absence of this crucial ring from the 100-400. Without that ring the chances of water ingress into both the lens and the camera body go up.

20111015_221923_1324_LR.jpg


To quote from the review here - http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-100-400mm-f-4.5-5.6-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx ....

The Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens is a partially weather sealed lens. A lens mount gasket is not present, but the switches, focusing ring and zoom ring have moderate dust and moisture resistance. A front filter should be used for sealing purposes.
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Some L lenses, such as the 16-35.2.8L II require a filter to be fitted to complete weather sealing. Others, such as the 135/2L are not weather sealed.

I don't know how definitive this list is, but there are many notable absences from the L range of glass, especially the shorter primes. Please don't assume that "L" = weather sealed. The 100-400 certainly isn't fully sealed, and partially sealed is about as useful as not being sealed at all - weakest link in the chain etc. etc.....

http://www.lensplay.com/lenses/lens_weathersealed.html

EDIT : Just found Canon's own tech spec list in Lens Work III. See the second page of this document - http://software.canon-europe.com/files/documents/EF_Lens_Work_Book_11_EN.pdf. The 100-400 has a "-" in the column for dust/moisture resistance. That's a "No". The "Yes" lenses have an "o" in that column.
 
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I never use a filter on mine either (Tims advice some months ago) I also read about filters not being a good idea.

I leave my zoom on loose too, after being advised it can be damaged if moved when tight.

No problems so far :)
 
I NEVER use a filter on this lens, the hood is massive so the chance of the lens getting damaged is minimal, you would have to be doing something pretty extreme, ok the hood will not protect it if you dropped it, with a combined weight of nearlt 2kg with a gripped 50D then some damage is going to occur if dropped.

I always loosen the ring right off when shooting with this lens.

spike
 
SpikeK6 said:
I NEVER use a filter on this lens, the hood is massive so the chance of the lens getting damaged is minimal, you would have to be doing something pretty extreme, ok the hood will not protect it if you dropped it, with a combined weight of nearlt 2kg with a gripped 50D then some damage is going to occur if dropped.

I always loosen the ring right off when shooting with this lens.

spike
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+1

The only time I would put a filter on it is if I was going to the seaside where there is potential for salt water spray. Apart from that, the lens hood is a far better way of protecting the front element.
Filters on long lenses often seem to produce very nasty looking bokeh effects as well as increased chance of flare/ghosting.
 
Thanks Tim for the heads up, seems the Canon man I was getting my info from wasn't up to the job. Not that I'd be out in the rain with mine that much anyway, I dont like getting soaked unless I'm bathing or swimming anyway.
Also thanks for saying about the filters. I was a little dismayed when I saw some recent wildlife shots with the filter on. Tried testing it today (and all of my other lenses) without the filter and I'm now much happier. Think I'll leave the filter in place while storing and transporting but remove it for the shooting.
 
tdodd said:
Utter bull. The lens has a ring USM motor and allows manual focus override at all times. If you use back button focusing then the argument is rendered moot, but frankly there is no argument in the first place.
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No need to be so harsh.

I did edit and say " Sorry read your question wrong "

I had an old fujifinepix s9000 which i broke because of focusing manually while it was in auto. It is possible with some lenses.

As i said , i read his post wrong and so thought about the wrong lens.
 
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