Right time, right camera to get into film?

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James
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First post here, bit curious

Film's always had that hipsterish analogue appeal to me, not necessarily for the result but the process of loading film and measuring shots.

But I haven't touched film since 90s disposables and since been chimping away on smartphones and a Ricoh GR

I was tempted to get into it by buying a Contax G1/G2 - but I got thinking, with it being the pandemic, has film in general been a nightmare this year? Has processing in stores (or even the hassle of mail) been practical this year? Are film scanners worthwhile for average consumers?
 
Oh and what's the right entry point/gateway camera? I was thinking it far more sensible to get old Olympus's and the like for their cost-effectiveness, I was just scared they may offer too many difficulties in both functionality and results, friction that might nullify the whole tactile experience I'm after (maybe a bit contradictory)
 
just a half decent old 35mm SLR to have a pop if you fancy.
go for a cheapish one and a prime lens like a 50mm
my first was nikon fe2 nut they shot up, maybe a minolta?
 
Quite a few of us get our processing and scans done here:


I'd be cautious about spending a lot of money on a G1 or G2 - I don't think they can be fixed if the electronics fail, though of course the lenses are very good. As Paul suggests, there are a lot of SLRs available. Mid-range AF models tend to be pretty cheap and using the later ones (say a Nikon F80, or the more expensive Nikon F100) is similar to using a dSLR once you've loaded the film. Nikon or Canon may be your best bet here. If you'd prefer something a bit more retro, there are any number of fully manual SLRs from a dozen or so manufacturers that would be fine. Nikon or Canon again, of course, Olympus as you mention, or Minolta, Pentax, Contax/Yashica, Ricoh, Cosina, even Leica (much cheaper than their M rangefinders). As with the G1/2, anything electronic may not be fixable if it goes wrong, but most of these cameras are a fair bit cheaper, and there are some models with mechanical shutters (like the Olympus OM-1 or the Nikon FM/FM2) that only use electronics for their meters.
 
If your thinking Contax then my suggestion would be a 139 quartz or 137 ma or MD, or if budget is an issue one of the Yashica equivalents, FX or similar. Paired with a Zeiss 50mm 1.7 it's a reasonably inexpensive way of getting back into film that should produce good results. My wife has a 139 with the Zeiss lens and I'm constantly amazed at how good the images are.
However, if you are used to the clean look of digital then maybe 35mm would be a little underwhelming and a bit of medium format would satisfy the itch. There are a huge amount of very good but inexpensive mf cameras out there, still lots of places to buy and have film developed and much fun to be had.
 
A lot depends on what you’re looking for and what you want to get from the experience.
Are you looking for a point and shoot, do you want to go fully manual, do you want a camera that’s similar to a modern digital?
The world of film is a diverse and wonderful place, you could spend less than £30 or you could spend thousands.
 
Just a thought from me, if you are used to things like auto focus I would suggest that you initially avoid range finder cameras. There are reasonably priced 35mm SLRs (Pentax ME is my favourite but also Canon and Nikon) but as @Andysnap says above dive straight in with a medium format (120 film) TLR or SLR.
 
I have to agree with the above comments, so I won't add anything further there.

Scanner wise, it's really a case of how much are you planning on shooting. If you're going to shoot a lot, and indeed stick with film for the longer term, then it's fair to say that a scanner such as an epson V500 will likely pay for itself. The cost of dev only vs dev and scan does tend to differ, and the scan resolution you get from the dev and scan services varies with price. If however you only want to shoot a roll a month or something like that, buying your own scanner is probably not worth it, and getting a dev and scan service done each time could well be the better option for you. There is a huge, and very useful, scanner thread on here, so definitely give that a read as well, as that may answer some/all of your questions.
 
I would echo what has been written above. It's a big playground, this film thing, so you would do well to think about what you want (and why) and spend accordingly. If you can't answer the What and Why questions, start cheap.

I got back into film about this time last year and have loved it all. I have had films developed by Silverpan (which was good) and Ag Photolab (which was excellent). You should probably expect to pay £15-£20 for the whole processing, scanning and postage, though there are cheaper options available. I also recently home processed my first film for 40 odds years, which was also good fun (and worked OK). All my film has been purchased from Wex (who always seem very quick).

Some of the questions you should probably be trying to answer:
Black & White or Colour?
Manual camera, auto-exposure, auto-focus or auto-everything (inc. winding on)
Do you expect to be all film, or mixture of film and digital? If the latter, late models from Canon, Nikon and probably others, will let you share lenses across your film and digital cameras.
Any brand loyalty? You mention Olympus - if you have always fancied an old Olympus, go for it!
 
Ah that link looks affordable, sweet

Thanks all for the recommendations, have a lot to trawl through!
 
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but as @Andysnap says above dive straight in with a medium format (120 film) TLR or SLR.


Well I think that way too as trying to get into the mind of a digi guy suggest that they use their digi for everyday shooting and a medium format camera when they want to relax and see the different perspective from medium format lenses and better quality compared to 35mm. Going to extreme just looking through the RB67 viewfinder is a wow.
But it's always difficult giving advice to a digi guy for trying film as 35mm cameras are more versatile and lenses cheaper than medium format and is a VG starting point esp if you want to try e,g, your own development and experiment with say increasing the ISO up to 6400 for fun as you can open the back in a changing bag take out say 5 exposed shots (cutting the film with scissors) and place in a dev tank.....and just develop that strip.
Anyway film is fun erm well as a filmie I take it seriously (y)
 
If you want to go into film, you might consider buying Tamron AD2 lenses. These fit virtually all film cameras through a system of adapters that supply all the film era functions that different cameras support such as: automatic aperture; aperture readout and shutter priority exposure automation. They are also generally very good both optically and mechanically.

Here are some of mine which I can use on both the Nikon D600 and my Canon FD mount film bodies....

Tamron Lenses with Nikon D600 GX7 P1140566.jpg

Canon cameras Tamron lenses _1050343.JPG
 
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I picked up a Minolta X300 on eBay which while a bit grubby when I got it, cleaned up into excellent condition. It came with two lenses and cost me £60 in total. I've put a few rolls of film in and it has been great.
 
35mm SLR camera wise, do you want manual focus or auto focus? That's the first thing to consider. If manual and you've got a budget of £100 to £150 then perhaps have a look at the Canon A1 with 50mm Canon FD lens. It's a quality piece of kit that has the P A S M metering modes that most modern cameras have, plus a good digital LED read out in the viewfinder, which is quicker and easier to use than some vague wavery meter needle, particularly in darker conditions. Watch out for 'Canon cough' which is squeaky sneeze type sound when the shutter is fired, due to dry mirror damper bearings. Also check the light seals where the film door closes, which perish with age (as they do on many 35mm SLRs that use foam rubber type seals). If not already done, a 'Clean, Lubricate and Adjust' (CLA) service to cure the squeak and replace the light seals will probably cost around the £100 mark if using one of our 'tame' camera repairers, but that should hopefully give you a fully working and reliable camera for several years to come.

For an auto focus 35mm SLR then have a look at the Canon EOS 30. £40 to £80 should get you a fully working body in good condition, or a good one with a zoom lens (and perhaps the original box) will probably cost around the £100 mark, + or - £20 or so. The EOS 30 will work with full functionality (including Image Stabilisation) with all genuine Canon EF lenses (not EF-S crop sensor ones). This is really handy if you have a Canon EOS DSLR and some EF lenses already, as the lenses can be shared between bodies.

Be aware that with the Nikon 35mm SLR camera system full functionality may not be available between certain lenses and bodies, and it's a bit complicated to work out which will work with what and to what extent.

As for film processing, it's taken a bit longer at times this year and I believe Royal Mail are currently experiencing delivery delays due to staff shortages, but apart from that I've found no difference using AG Photolab, who have worked right through the pandemic. The 'nightmare' has come from not being able to get out and about with my film cameras this year, as so many outdoor events were cancelled.

The other bad news is that lockdown has caused people to take up new hobbies... such as film photography, and this has driven up the price of a lot of the more 'desirable' cameras. Hence my two suggestions above, as these two cameras seem to be somewhat overlooked, so still give some good 'bang for buck', although their prices have still crept up a bit.

The only other advice is to check that the battery a camera uses is still available. Mercury type batteries were banned years ago due to their toxicity, and direct equivalents that will give the same voltage and power discharge characteristics can be hard to find. Using 'near' equivalents can result in inaccurate metering on quite a few cameras, so bear this in mind. There are ways round this, but as usual, this often comes at an additional cost. Both the Canon cameras I mentioned above use batteries that are still readily available (Amazon, eBay, etc).

Hope the above is useful and best of luck choosing what's right for you.
 
For an auto focus 35mm SLR then have a look at the Canon EOS 30. £40 to £80 should get you a fully working body in good condition, or a good one with a zoom lens (and perhaps the original box) will probably cost around the £100 mark, + or - £20 or so. The EOS 30 will work with full functionality (including Image Stabilisation) with all genuine Canon EF lenses (not EF-S crop sensor ones). This is really handy if you have a Canon EOS DSLR and some EF lenses already, as the lenses can be shared between bodies.

Be aware that with the Nikon 35mm SLR camera system full functionality may not be available between certain lenses and bodies, and it's a bit complicated to work out which will work with what and to what extent.
Nikon can get complicated, but anyone wanting to run AF film bodies alongside a dSLR system should probably:

(1) Buy an F100, F80, or F5. If your budget is tight or you find one cheap, an F65 or F75 would work, but lack some useful features; the F6 is great but expensive.

(2) Stick to lenses that have 'AF-S' and 'G' in their names, which will work with all the cameras above and with any Nikon dSLR. For other lenses, check the compatibility charts.
 
There are lots of us here that have more film cameras than we can use, maybe somebody will lend you something, where abouts are you? They might even be able to teach you the basics of home developing
 
Personally I would go for a mechanical camera as they're likely to last longer and be easier to repair than anything electronic. Something like a Nikon FM or Olympus OM1 would be a good start. However, I would agree with @Andysnap about medium format as these formats scan really well on an Epson flatbed scanner. I have an Epson V750 but have always found it poor for scans of 35mm film but very good for 6x6. I find a dedicated 35mm film scanner much better for small negs.
 
I add an OM1 and it was lovely. Very nice viewfinder and great ergonomic. Loved the 35mm 2.8 on it too, more that the 50mm. Some lens are a bit expensive on this system and I think price are always going up.

But i don't do film anymore, it was just a phase when i was rich and i add to much time on my hands. That's before becoming a dad...
 
Again cracking information guys, more than I bargained for even!

Located in SE London fwiw Karl

But otherwise I settled on getting a Contax G1 and Zeiss 28mm for £350 - not that the suggestions fell on deaf ears! Was reassuring to see how film practicalities have been fine over the period I think I had homed in on the Contax as aesthetic and form was part of what was drawing me in, and the combo should be relatively easy to get into from a Ricoh
 
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