Robin , is this a better one then

Roger W

Roger W

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Rog
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Hope this gets better comments Jeeze,lolrobin2f.jpg
 
what camera, lens and setting Roger and how did you process it?
 
Hi used the Canon 7D and the Canon 300mm . I think it was 1/100 f6.3 and ISO 800 as the light was fading getting dark and at 300mm setting processed in PS
 
Normally 1/100 sec would be really slow for this type of shot

With a 300mm hand held, I'd use 1/500th sec especially if the lens does not have VR or IS

colours look just a little over cooked

It is usual to give the bird a bit more space to look into
 
It does have stabilizer, its funny how people differ, my son in law is a Pro Photography and he has always told me to use 1/100, on still shots like this , guess I can't win ,lol
 
Roger W said:
It does have stabilizer, its funny how people differ, my son in law is a Pro Photography and he has always told me to use 1/100, on still shots like this , guess I can't win ,lol
Click to expand...

Does he take Birds?

but even so - even with IS, with a 300mm lens, hand held, at least 1/300th sec would be the starting point generally, (most of the time)

1/100th sec with a 300mm lens - I would never do that, but I'm not a pro
 
He is well known the world over so I think I will take his advice , but thanks for you suggestions .
 
What's his name? he's a wildlife photographer?

Looks pretty sharp considering its 1/100 on that lens... Would like to see more space to the right though
 
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Could have Adam trouble was I had a rather large Solar lamp about a few inches to the right , sometimes things don't always work out .thanks for the comments though .
 
He never taught me ,, Ok Bill , it would have been more useful to me for you to say in the first place what could be improved in the image , I am learning coming from 26 years as an Astro imager, thought I would try something new.i know I have a lot to learn that's why I came on this forum, so lets not get off on the wrong foot .
Rog
 
Roger W said:
He never taught me ,, Ok Bill , it would have been more useful to me for you to say in the first place what could be improved in the image , I am learning coming from 26 years as an Astro imager, thought I would try something new.i know I have a lot to learn that's why I came on this forum, so lets not get off on the wrong foot .
Rog
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I started but as you said you would rather take notice of a "well known world over" Pro photographer who told you to shoot birds at 1/100th sec
 
Roger W said:
He never taught me ,, Ok Bill , it would have been more useful to me for you to say in the first place what could be improved in the image , I am learning coming from 26 years as an Astro imager, thought I would try something new.i know I have a lot to learn that's why I came on this forum, so lets not get off on the wrong foot .
Rog
Click to expand...

This is just a quick mock up regarding composition only for this shot and similar

I would have gone for a composition like this

I would have used a constrained crop of a standard size - which this is

next, I would balance the bg and fg and ensure that noise reduction around the edge of the bird is carefully done, (which has not been in your image) - also bottom LH corner

don't reduce any noise in the bird and do not sharpen the bird, as you will only be sharpening noise


Rog.jpg


settings are another important factor - test these against the in camera histogram before you start

spot focus on the eye

my parameters would be - with the 300mm lens, hand held (I presume it is f5.6)

1/500th sec - f5.6 and auto ISO up to ISO 1000 - I would add 1/3EV to start with
(anyone who told you to use 1/100th sec is crazy - Pro or not)

the image looks a crop - so judge the ISO depending on your distance knowing you will crop

take RAW - process lightly to start with

Processing - take RAW and jpeg - when you can get your RAW processing up to the OCC jpeg quality then you are half way there
 
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Thanks for that Bill , first off I have to apologize to you , I called my son-in law a while ago , and it seems I have got it all wrong, it was ISO he said try to keep it as low as poss ISO 100 for starters , so it was not the shutter speed, I feel stupid now , but I see what you mean about composition it does look a whole lot better and fits the frame
Thanks once again
Rog
 
The second "crop" is much better but as I am at all (yet) into post processing the bird seems to have the feathers far too sharpened and the colour too saturated. Of course it could have put its make up on ready to pose but ....
 
second robin.jpg
After the advice ,I reprocessed the Robin from the original, is this a better one .
 
Give it a bit more

1 minute in LR/PS




Rog_4.jpg



Also ISO Roger

Do not worry about ISO to start with - it is important to get a sharpe image, get the shutter speed and exposure "right"

This is ISO 5000


ISO5000.jpg
 
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what saturation you mean bill, the last guy said it was oversaturated ,but on checking the original from the camera , it was how it was , I never done anything in the original , only sharpened. I like your one you just done
 
Roger W said:
what saturation you mean bill, the last guy said it was oversaturated ,but on checking the original from the camera , it was how it was , I never done anything in the original , only sharpened. I like your one you just done
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Was your original image an out of camera jpeg Roger? ..... If so look at the adjustments that are applied to jpegs in camera

Quick Edit
set black and whites and shadows and highlights - add just a little saturation overall and a little more orange

reduce all the bg noise and only sharpen the very edges of the bird

get the composition right with more space to the right for the bird to look into

(have a look at the Lightroom or Photoshop tutorials - lots on Utube or Adobe - all free)
 
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Ok Bill , as regards the noise , I only have PS cc , I can only use the nise section there , do you have noise software to deal with this ,
 
second robin.jpg
Done another like you said , but as regards the Noise I am a bit stuck with that.
 
BillN_33 said:
Do not worry about ISO to start with - it is important to get a sharpe image, get the shutter speed and exposure "right"
Click to expand...
Bill is right about this, BUT, if you're using a 7D, you will become demoralised very quickly if you start popping shots all over the place at 5000 ISO.

Much of the trick with wildlife is to get the framing right. The space to the left of your Robins tail is of little or no use. Always leave the space where the bird is looking and (generally) keep the eye of the bird between a third and the centre if you can.

The 7D is a good wildlife camera to be starting with, but it's noise making ability is the stuff of legends. I used a 7D for a long time and eventually I just wouldn't press the shutter if the ISO was heading into four figures. The 7Dii is an improvement, but it's not light years ahead either.

I'd suggest that you set the Auto ISO up (in the menu) within a range of up to maybe 1600 max on a 7D. That way, you will see what happens when the ambient light isn't sufficient to produce a decent image and can adjust your apperture/shutter speed accordingly. I do both wildlife and astro (aurora) photography, so I understand that it's going to be difficult to cross-over, as the two genre's are very different. Friends often marvel at my moon shots, but I keep explaining that the moon is easy because it doesn't decide to fly away just as you go to press the shutter! ;)
 
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