Rolllie IR 400 iso film

Are you using a filter as well?
 
Meter for the film if no filter, add the stops for whatever filter you use on top (eg. a red #25 filter will mean a 3 stop increase). Use the IR focus points on the lens without filters, you can use normal focus settings if you use filters. By filters I mean the higher bandpass ones here - maybe above 600nm

Rollei developing info: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Development_Rollei films.pdf
 
Hi all,i am using a cokin ir filter,do i meter the reflected light or the light falling on to the subject,thanks for the links
 
Reflected light, then add the filter...
 
Well just had a nice few hours at the Runcorn bridge,must have looked at the back of the camera half a dozon times for a preview.Slowed me right down and made me think about what i wanted to shoot.Was rather nice not rushing will get the film sent of tomorrow for develping and scanning. A nice few hours,even got ofered a brandy and coke off a few down and outs,must dress better LOL
 
i've come to the conclusion that there is no point in metering for IR film as it's just doesn't follow the same 'rules' as conventional film.

I now shoot (with a 5 stop IR filter on the camera) 1-2s in bright sunshine, 2-4s in semi shade, 15-30 secs in overcast/heavy shade.

This is all using Efke ir820, which is based on their 100ASA film, I've not used the Rollei yet.
 
is it worth using ir in overcast cloud or is there still plenty of ir light about,thought there must be a starting point
Exposere seem long though,is that why a lot of ir shots seem blured,eg clouds trees and grass seem to move
What f-stop setting
 
lostinfrance said:
is it worth using ir in overcast cloud or is there still plenty of ir light about,thought there must be a starting point
Exposere seem long though,is that why a lot of ir shots seem blured,eg clouds trees and grass seem to move
What f-stop setting
Click to expand...

For me, shooting IR is pretty much something to do in the middle of the day, on bright sunny days like today has been - ie when the light is too harsh and flat for shooting normal film. There's definitely an element of movement due to long exposures on most of the stuff i've done - though I must confess that the bulk of the IR stuff I've done has actually been on the digikal :naughty:
 
My last roll of rollei IR was metered at iso 12, my meter only went down as far as iso 25, but that's just a doubling of the time.
I think your question is about the metering level of Rollei 400 IR, with an R72 filter its iso 12
 
one thing is a bit of a nusance is removing the filter to compose the shot,would a range finder viewfinder be of any help,i would need one for each lens but like the idea of using a 35mm or 50mm most of the time
 
lostinfrance said:
is it worth using ir in overcast cloud or is there still plenty of ir light about,thought there must be a starting point
Exposere seem long though,is that why a lot of ir shots seem blured,eg clouds trees and grass seem to move
What f-stop setting
Click to expand...

Sorry, f8.

You can get results from overcast or shady conditions.

These were taken in a shady woodlands. Without looking at my notes I think the exposure time was about 30s @f8.
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one thing is a bit of a nusance is removing the filter to compose the shot,would a range finder viewfinder be of any help,i would need one for each lens but like the idea of using a 35mm or 50mm most of the time
Click to expand...

I'm using my Holga more for IR shots for specifically this reason, it's a right pain to keep putting on and taking off the filter.
 
All good stuff, thank you all for your help
felt like i was aphotograper again yesterday (amature) but didnt half make me think what i was doing.Some strange looks when i was using my seconic 308 light meter and tripod but who cares,still look at the back of the camera though.
Nice thing about film is you can afford the cameras that 10 years ago you could only dream about but neaded a +1 eye correction for the viewfinder ---£20,ouch.The eyesite not as good as it was.
Why is the Holga good for ir
By the way ,lovley photographs
 
because you dont look through the lens, there is just a small window which shows you what you are shooting.

either that or because it makes you look cool ;)
 
and is that on 120 film 6x6,will have a look at the website
film cameras are cool by the way
 
Depends on the Holga - i've got a couple - one is the 120 6x6 or 6x4.5 one (though I got the posh one with the glass lens - not that it makes things a whole lot sharper!) and the other is a wide angle pinhole job - 6x9 or 6x12 images. The pinhole's not all that easy to frame up however - only indication of view is a v-shaped ridge on the top plate of the camera and 3 little "pips" that indicate an approx edge of frame with the 6x12 mask. No guides at all for the 6x9 of course...
 
I have a roll of this film to try out.
I used Ilford SFX before in my EOS 3 with filter on and that was able to cope quite well with the meetering aspect.
 
Lucky you used SFX200 and Rollei 400 or Efke IR820 as the IR frame counter in the EOS 3 would have fogged it. What filter did you use as theres no meter in the world that can meter properly through a 720nm filter, except prehaps a Cds meter.
 
I got a Ilford cokin sfx 200 filter with the films and used that.
I had read about it fogging some IR films, but it was mentioned it was only a small area of the frame.
The sfx came out nicely.
 
The SFX is not true IR film, its just an extended red sensivity film, hence why yours came out without any fogging. If you were to put Rollei or Efke IR film through it then it can fog a significant amount of the image, depending on the camera.

How did you meter with that filter? Did you meter with it off, add it on and add 4 stops on like it recommends?
 
I just let the EOS do the work for me. It worked fine.
 
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