Sensor Cleaning

Lehman’s in stoke on Trent

Thank you! They even offer pick up and delivery for a little extra. I just tried cleaning the sensor myself but there is still dust. I have no idea where it is, as I really looked hard with torch and all.

Having never done this before I would agree with one thing some have said here: the blower is a tricky thing to use. I quickly stopped as I felt I was blowing dust into places where it shouldn't be and then later, when moving the camera, would come back to surface (or back on to the sensor).

Right now having it done professionally is my last option and looking at their website they seem to know what they are doing. It's 'only' a Canon 1200D which I purchased 2nd hand to replace my old Canon 450D which has after long hard work has given in. I enjoy macro photography but with my equipment it's amateur level only of course. But it is when taking macro shots that the dust shows most.
 
The trick to using a rocket blower is to turn the camera face downward and blow up into it, this way any dust that shifts falls out through the mount. If it's loose dust it's not going to stick to the sensor. This does only shift very loose dust though, you can't beat a wet clean.
 
Warning, never try cleaning a sensor with a cotton bud, you will end up in all sorts of problems


Between using the blower and the Arctic Butterfly my first option is the latter every time. Of course costs are involved and a blower is so much cheaper. Disadvantage of a blower is disturbing dust in the camera body and causing more problems, been there done it. The butterfly one can virtually watch the loose dust being attracted away from the sensor and any dust in the body doesn't get disturbed. A 5 to 10 second spin is all it takes and switch off and gently brush over sensor

We all have our own ideas on how to deal with the problem so if a blower is the choice then go with it. Stuck on dust is a different matter needing sensor cleaning fluid and a swab.

One tip I can pass on and now always do is not to tip or even dip a swab into a tube of cleaning fluid. No matter how careful the swab will take in more and get a good soaking.

What I do is to pour out a drop of sensor cleaning fluid onto a hard clean surface and dip the swap tip into it. This way it is easier to control the amount of fluid the swab takes by the size of the drop.

Hope this tip helps

The main trick is to allow plenty of time and not try and rush it. Sensor cleaning may take a few passes to clean with a swab. The Loupe is well worth getting may I add.

With 3 camera to keep sensors dust free would be expensive send them away each time
 
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Thank you! They even offer pick up and delivery for a little extra. I just tried cleaning the sensor myself but there is still dust. I have no idea where it is, as I really looked hard with torch and all.

Having never done this before I would agree with one thing some have said here: the blower is a tricky thing to use. I quickly stopped as I felt I was blowing dust into places where it shouldn't be and then later, when moving the camera, would come back to surface (or back on to the sensor).

Right now having it done professionally is my last option and looking at their website they seem to know what they are doing. It's 'only' a Canon 1200D which I purchased 2nd hand to replace my old Canon 450D which has after long hard work has given in. I enjoy macro photography but with my equipment it's amateur level only of course. But it is when taking macro shots that the dust shows most.


Right as the others have said if using a rocket blower hold the camera above your head and blow into the throat any loose dust will fall out , you also say you can still see dust on your images .. little tip everything is reversed so if dust is top right in image it’s bottom left on the sensor ... sounds like as a first attempt you may not have applied either enough fluid /and.or pressure it has to be firm but not hard .... go one way then turn the swab and go the other way .. then quickly turn camera off and fit body cap or lens
 
Right as the others have said if using a rocket blower hold the camera above your head and blow into the throat any loose dust will fall out , you also say you can still see dust on your images .. little tip everything is reversed so if dust is top right in image it’s bottom left on the sensor ... sounds like as a first attempt you may not have applied either enough fluid /and.or pressure it has to be firm but not hard .... go one way then turn the swab and go the other way .. then quickly turn camera off and fit body cap or lens

As you look at the sensor (from the front) left and right are the same for dust bunnies and it's only top and bottom that are reversed so if a dust bunny is at the bottom left in your picture as you look at the sensor it'll be top left.
 
Warning, never try cleaning a sensor with a cotton bud, you will end up in all sorts of problems


Between using the blower and the Arctic Butterfly my first option is the latter every time. Of course costs are involved and a blower is so much cheaper. Disadvantage of a blower is disturbing dust in the camera body and causing more problems, been there done it. The butterfly one can virtually watch the loose dust being attracted away from the sensor and any dust in the body doesn't get disturbed. A 5 to 10 second spin is all it takes and switch off and gently brush over sensor

We all have our own ideas on how to deal with the problem so if a blower is the choice then go with it. Stuck on dust is a different matter needing sensor cleaning fluid and a swab.

One tip I can pass on and now always do is not to tip or even dip a swab into a tube of cleaning fluid. No matter how careful the swab will take in more and get a good soaking.

What I do is to pour out a drop of sensor cleaning fluid onto a hard clean surface and dip the swap tip into it. This way it is easier to control the amount of fluid the swab takes by the size of the drop.

Hope this tip helps

The main trick is to allow plenty of time and not try and rush it. Sensor cleaning may take a few passes to clean with a swab. The Loupe is well worth getting may I add.

With 3 camera to keep sensors dust free would be expensive send them away each time

QK9a6FE.jpg


taken with camcorder, sorry about poor quality, didn't adjust camcorder for lighting conditions


I have never heard of anyone trying to clean a sensor with a cotton bud! But tbh, the Arctic Butterfly isn't far behind. Possibly the most over-rated camera gear device ever made. Give me a rocket blower any day of the week
 
I have never heard of anyone trying to clean a sensor with a cotton bud! But tbh, the Arctic Butterfly isn't far behind. Possibly the most over-rated camera gear device ever made. Give me a rocket blower any day of the week

All I can say is the Arctic Butterfly seems to work for me. Maybe people that have used it expect too much of it. It is only designed for light dust and absolutely brilliant for removing things like fine hair which sensors sometimes collect.
 
Pretty much this if you're careful.
I think we were all scared first time of wet ones :D But seriously, once you do it once, you'll wonder why you were so wary of doing it. It is basically putting a drop of fluid on a clean sensor swab, and wiping this across the sensor in one smooth action, reverse the swab, add another drop and do same again. That is it! If the spot persists, use another swab, don't use the same side twice or you may be just putting that dust spot back on. You cannot break or damage anything unless you really try hard to tbh. You won't be actually touching the sensor itself but a protective filter in front of it. I know that helped ease me into doing it the first time, also knowing you would have to really press hard to do any kind of damage
 
All I can say is the Arctic Butterfly seems to work for me. Maybe people that have used it expect too much of it. It is only designed for light dust and absolutely brilliant for removing things like fine hair which sensors sometimes collect.

I don't trust the design of it, if that thing goes off accidentally when you're wiping the sensor it could cause some damage. A rocket blower isn't going to damage anything, it's not like compressed air it's just like a strong breath, but moisture free. If there anything that doesn't shift I'd recommend the wet clean every time.
 
You wouldn't take your film camera to a dealer to have the film changed.
Why would you take your digital camera to a dealer to have the sensor cleaned?

Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.
 
You wouldn't take your film camera to a dealer to have the film changed.
Why would you take your digital camera to a dealer to have the sensor cleaned?

Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.

Like we said, it's only daunting before you do it the first time, not a chance I would pay £50 or whatever it is these days for someone to do the same thing I can do myself. I've heard people say they sent their cameras in to be cleaned only for them to come back with dust spots still present. It's just some guy working in a camera store using the same swabs you can buy for a tenner. I guess people like the sound of a "professional clean"
 
I don't trust the design of it, if that thing goes off accidentally when you're wiping the sensor it could cause some damage. A rocket blower isn't going to damage anything, it's not like compressed air it's just like a strong breath, but moisture free. If there anything that doesn't shift I'd recommend the wet clean every time.

I've had a couple of artic butterflys and never experienced that with them.
I also did a much better clean with one than the service I received from a London based companies so called professional clean.
The chances of it accidentally going off are the same as the chance your TV, kettle of any other devive with a power switch powering up on it's own.
 
Like we said, it's only daunting before you do it the first time, not a chance I would pay £50 or whatever it is these days for someone to do the same thing I can do myself. I've heard people say they sent their cameras in to be cleaned only for them to come back with dust spots still present. It's just some guy working in a camera store using the same swabs you can buy for a tenner. I guess people like the sound of a "professional clean"

I've read about bad so called professional cleans being rubbish and also experienced this myself.
There's a company in Swindon who sell sensor cleaning equipment who for a small fee will show you in house how to clean a sensor.
I had a chat to them last year and the guy really sounded like he know his stuff.
 
I've had a couple of artic butterflys and never experienced that with them.
I also did a much better clean with one than the service I received from a London based companies so called professional clean.
The chances of it accidentally going off are the same as the chance your TV, kettle of any other devive with a power switch powering up on it's own.

Not exactly, as you're holding it while cleaning, you could accidentally hit the on switch. Even besides that I wouldn't use it, if you've got to the stage that you need to use this, then I say you need a wet clean which is no harder to do - but a lot cheaper!

I've read about bad so called professional cleans being rubbish and also experienced this myself.
There's a company in Swindon who sell sensor cleaning equipment who for a small fee will show you in house how to clean a sensor.
I had a chat to them last year and the guy really sounded like he know his stuff.

They're not all bad of course, and some camera stores offer the service for free if you buy the camera from them. In this case may as well let them do it.
 
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Other side of the coin

I used to DIY clean - sometimes with great success - sometimes not. I had the artic butterfly which wasn't bad but it wouldn't shift stubborn dirt and had the same removal abilities as a blower.

Wet cleaning did remove but once I left fluid streaks all over the sensor which showed up. What did it for me was when I scratched the AA filter on my D800 (it doesn't show very often and only in some unique lighting circumstances) and I now just use the in camera sensor cleaning - work out where the spots are and clone them out and once I find I am spending too much time on that off it goes to AJ Johnstone in Glasgow - who always pass my aim at the sky F22 test - not one spot. I could never get it that good.

I'd urge anyone who cleans their sensor to try - after cleaning it - taking a shot at F22 aimed at a clear backdrop and see just how good they have done it.
 
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As you look at the sensor (from the front) left and right are the same for dust bunnies and it's only top and bottom that are reversed so if a dust bunny is at the bottom left in your picture as you look at the sensor it'll be top left.
I stand corrected
 
You wouldn't take your film camera to a dealer to have the film changed.
Why would you take your digital camera to a dealer to have the sensor cleaned?

Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.

People who are competent drivers may not feel like tinkering under the hood. Same applies to photography I think. Just because you know how to use it doesn't mean you want to get your hands dirty.
 
People who are competent drivers may not feel like tinkering under the hood. Same applies to photography I think. Just because you know how to use it doesn't mean you want to get your hands dirty.
Not a good analogy I'm afraid.
Were not talking about a mechanical stripdown.
You don't need any mechanical skills to wash your vehicle, which is in the same category.

As I said (Sensor cleaning is) Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.
 
Not a good analogy I'm afraid.
Were not talking about a mechanical stripdown.
You don't need any mechanical skills to wash your vehicle, which is in the same category.

As I said (Sensor cleaning is) Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.

I know of many decent drivers who cannot do a proper wash to save themselves - they miss bits of polish they put on, they wash in direct sunlight so you get water streaks on the paint.

So I am not sure I agree with the bit in bold.
 
A clean car won't do it's job any better than a filthy one, but a clean sensor will. Which is why I never wash my car, but do clean my sensors.

Sensor cleaning is a minor skill well worth learning.(y)
 
Not a good analogy I'm afraid.
Were not talking about a mechanical stripdown.
You don't need any mechanical skills to wash your vehicle, which is in the same category.

As I said (Sensor cleaning is) Something that any competent photographer should be capable of.

Washing a car is not the same as cleaning a sensor. You scratch the bodywork you've still got a working car. You scratch or damage a sensor then you don't have a working camera. Regardless of differing opinions not everyone would feel at ease cleaning the most important part of their camera body.
 
right I recently bought a Nikon D3S always fancied one and I got it at a bite yer arm off price .. it was very dusty externally when it arrived but otherwise immaculate condition I cleaned it up and then went out for a few test shots ... oh dear the sensor wasn't just dirty it was minging.. I got back to the seller and he agreed to fund a wet sensor cleaning kit which he did . below are the before and after shots which prove no matter how dirty it can be done before .jpgafter .jpg
 
If you are wet cleaning a mirrorless camera with IBIS make sure to have the camera switched on as this will hold the sensor in place otherwise there is the possibility of damaging the IBIS mechanism.
At least that’s what I’ve read and it sounds plausible.
 
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I've done my own sensor cleaning for decades with good results.
But I have to admit to getting careless/overconfident because I did eventually scratch the one in my D4... that was a $1500.00 repair at Nikon USA. My insurance covered it, but if you don't have gear insurance (or a high deductible) you can pay for a lot of cleanings with that kind of money... just saying...
 
I use a slice cut from an old credit card with a Pec Pad wrapped around it. The theory is that I can't apply too much pressure as the credit card simply flexes. I've cleaned all my cameras sensors for years without any problem since I had a Canon 20D.
 
Always use the right tools and read as many tutorials as possible before attempting
 
As it goes Digital Camera magazine came with a blower this month so purchased and puffed and all seems ok now, so fingers crossed, thanks everyone for all the help and advice.View attachment 247425



What an idiot in that book photo, the camera should be face down so the dust falls out .not back into the camera body ( see post 30)
 
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There seems to be a lot of kits available are they all pretty much the same or are some more highly regarded? Like the OP I have a D7000 that could do with its sensor cleaning but the choices on Amazon seem endless.
 
There seems to be a lot of kits available are they all pretty much the same or are some more highly regarded? Like the OP I have a D7000 that could do with its sensor cleaning but the choices on Amazon seem endless.
If you're talking wet cleaning, I'm currently using VisibleDust Vswabs Ultra MXD-100 with Eclipse Optical Cleaning Fluid. Very happy with the ease of use and the results.
 
right I recently bought a Nikon D3S always fancied one and I got it at a bite yer arm off price .. it was very dusty externally when it arrived but otherwise immaculate condition I cleaned it up and then went out for a few test shots ... oh dear the sensor wasn't just dirty it was minging.. I got back to the seller and he agreed to fund a wet sensor cleaning kit which he did . below are the before and after shots which prove no matter how dirty it can be done View attachment 248475View attachment 248476


That's a really good kit.

It even removed the bird!!
 
Did both of my cameras over the weekend. I bought some swabs from Amazon. I actually used methanol (which is what ellipse fluid is) as I work in lab environments.
Took 5 mins each blow with rocket blower then bit of Methanol on swab.
Quick test and forget for 6 months or longer.
There is nothing to be worried about doing a wet clean,
 
Several years back purchased the bits to clean the sensor myself. I wrote a blog on my website about it.

https://spark.adobe.com/page/Jn0SoWCc0bLL8/

In 6 years I’ve done a few cleans. So far the blower or dry clean (sensorklear pen) has done the job. Admittedly I probably don’t clean the sensor that often. Most of my photography is with wide apertures (f4-5.6) so I probably don’t notice dust spots as much as I would at f13-16. That said I’m off to do some landscapes in the Peak District in the next few weeks so I probably should check the sensor is clean before I go.
 
glad I did a search and found this tread, just noticed iv about 5-6 dust specs on, not quite as bad as the op's,
I used to have a blower about 20 years ago but never used it, think I threw it out a year ago:(
looks like i will have to buy another, and then a cleaning kit if that doesnt work, any recomendations on a decent kit/make
thanks.

lee
 
glad I did a search and found this tread, just noticed iv about 5-6 dust specs on, not quite as bad as the op's,
I used to have a blower about 20 years ago but never used it, think I threw it out a year ago:(
looks like i will have to buy another, and then a cleaning kit if that doesnt work, any recomendations on a decent kit/make
thanks.

lee
I use Vswab made by VisibleDust and Eclipse cleaning fluid for wet cleaning of the sensor when other methods have failed.
https://www.visibledust.com/WetCleaningManual.php
https://photosol.com/products/eclipse-optic-fluid/

works perfectly for me.
 
If you are wet cleaning a mirrorless camera with IBIS make sure to have the camera switched on as this will hold the sensor in place otherwise there is the possibility of damaging the IBIS mechanism.
At least that’s what I’ve read and it sounds plausible.

Not to so sure about this advice, always cleaned mine with the camera switched off.
Would rather go with the flow than fight the ibis, also the shutter could possibly activate and would no doubt be wrecked
 
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