Sensor/Mirror Cleaning

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DavidSteel

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David Steel
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I have made a total hash of my own effort to clean the sensor of my Canon DSLR which has resulted in smearing of the mirror (don't ask!!). I've tried to resolve it myself but come to the conclusion I need to engage an expert.

Can anyone reccomend anywhere to service the camera, preferably in the North West?

Thanks,

Dave
 
A Lenspen SensorKlear will remove the smearing.
They are cheap and very good.
Don't be put off by the price, it's a really good product.
 
Link doesn't load - page error.

Any more hints please?
 
it might look bad in the viewfinder but will a smear on the mirror affect the shots?
 
I got one from here - Personally i wouldn't attempt to clean the mirror, its actually the silvered side of a mirror and is very delicate - the lens pen is ideal for a sensor though.
 
killy said:
A smeared mirror will not affect the final image - but if there is muck on the mirror, it could get bounced around and finish up on the sensor.

Regards

Mike
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How ? the sensor is behind the mirror :thinking: and when you take a picture the mirror is raised out of the way to allow light to strike the sensor. A mucky mirror may cause focus problems as the mirror is used to deflect the light onto the focusing sensor's and if this light is diffused by a dirty mirror focus accuracy / speed may be affected.
 
Dogfish_magnet said:
How ? the sensor is behind the mirror :thinking: and when you take a picture the mirror is raised out of the way to allow light to strike the sensor. A mucky mirror may cause focus problems as the mirror is used to deflect the light onto the focusing sensor's and if this light is diffused by a dirty mirror focus accuracy / speed may be affected.
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Actually it isn't but I agree a mucky mirror could cause AF problems as the light path for AF is through the reflex mirror to the sub mirror behind it. A mucky reflex mirror could also cause AE problems because that light path is reflected by the reflex mirror to the AE sensors (which reside in the pentamirror box). I can see how loose debris on the mirror could quite easily end up on the sensor but if the marks are simply smears (finger prints/grease/whatever) that are firmly adhered to the mirror, that isn't going to get onto the sensor.
 
Thanks for all your comments. I am actually seeing marks on the pictures when uploaded to my laptop. These take the form of a few spots and a smudge/smear. I guess I must have managed to mark the sensor itself too.
 
DavidSteel said:
Thanks for all your comments. I am actually seeing marks on the pictures when uploaded to my laptop. These take the form of a few spots and a smudge/smear. I guess I must have managed to mark the sensor itself too.
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Its probably just still dirty .
 
DavidSteel said:
Thanks for all your comments. I am actually seeing marks on the pictures when uploaded to my laptop. These take the form of a few spots and a smudge/smear. I guess I must have managed to mark the sensor itself too.
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I would try a senseor cleaning kit unless you can get it pro cleaned for a reasonable price
 
You MUST learn to do this yourself. It's a 5 minute job, and you will probably save yourself £50. I've sent bodies away for it in the past and they've come back worse than when they left.

I use pecpads, folded and attached to an old biro (seriously - the sensor swabs they sell are exactly the same, but waaaaay overpriced) and a couple of drops of Eclipse. Gently but firmly (if you see what I mean) wipe all over, attach a dry pecpad, and wipe again to get rid of any smears. Do your skyshot, and check it out.

You may have to repeat this procedure several times to get it spotless...but you will get there eventually.
 
Now you see had you been at the convention last weekend you would have heard all about this subject...:razz::LOL::D (sorry had to say it )
 
can you get the mirror out...the nikon ones could be taken out quite easily
then you can clean in good light
as has been said...its got nothing to do with the actual pic unless its pellix
 
mrcrow said:
can you get the mirror out...the nikon ones could be taken out quite easily
then you can clean in good light
as has been said...its got nothing to do with the actual pic unless its pellix
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DON'T TOUCH THE MIRROR!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry for shouting but the mirror isn't something that should be touched, let alone removed. Don't know about Nikons, but on Canon dSLRs the mirror is a delicate mechanism.

Besides, there's nothing wrong with the OP's mirror. There's dirt on the sensor which should be easily removed with a sensorpen or pecpads/eclipse.
 
It's delicate but if you're very carefull then touching it is not a problem
 
hollis_f said:
DON'T TOUCH THE MIRROR!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry for shouting but the mirror isn't something that should be touched, let alone removed. Don't know about Nikons, but on Canon dSLRs the mirror is a delicate mechanism.

Besides, there's nothing wrong with the OP's mirror. There's dirt on the sensor which should be easily removed with a sensorpen or pecpads/eclipse.
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YOU GET LITTLE TWEEZERS WITH THE MIRRORS FOR TAKING THEM OUT....!!!!

resizes and resharpens
'
i hope i made myself clearor that should be 'indistinct in the twilight' to quote longfellow

sits in huff..:D
 
went to calumet in manchester last thursday to open day . had mine cleaned FOC.
They have a cleaning service every friday £35.00 Q and wait it takes 15 mins each camera well worth it
stuart
 
Dogfish_magnet said:
You can take out the focusing screen with tweezers - not the mirror -
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sits up and realizes ...that's what they are for..

apologises..

somewhere in my past i do remember fiddling with the mirror...i think it was when i was replacing the battery?
 
sorry to hijack the thread but when you take the test shot to show the crud on the sensor how much of what shows up could be on the lens rear element? or would dust on the lens not show? i've took a shot with mine stopped down to f22 and auto leveled in PS and it looks horrific, but how much is on the sensor and how much is on the rear element? or am i talking tripe here.?
 
ian-f said:
sorry to hijack the thread but when you take the test shot to show the crud on the sensor how much of what shows up could be on the lens rear element? or would dust on the lens not show? I've took a shot with mine stopped down to f22 and auto leveled in PS and it looks horrific, but how much is on the sensor and how much is on the rear element? or am i talking tripe here.?
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I think you'll find its on the sensor - try the same test shot with a different lens and if the crap's moved you seeing lens crud also. It is shocking the first time you do the test though :puke: i tend not to worry to much - until it starts taking to long in PS to remove the dust bunnies then i give it a clean.
 
Had my 5D done at calumet in manchester (it was filthy) came back like new.
 
Cheers for all the replies. I've ordered a Lenspen sensorklear kit to collect from my local Jessops tomorrow so fingers crossed. Will let you know how I get on.
 
ian-f said:
sorry to hijack the thread but when you take the test shot to show the crud on the sensor how much of what shows up could be on the lens rear element? or would dust on the lens not show? i've took a shot with mine stopped down to f22 and auto leveled in PS and it looks horrific, but how much is on the sensor and how much is on the rear element? or am i talking tripe here.?
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None - it's all on the sensor - think about it - the light that is transmitted by the lens comes into sharp-focus at the focal plane inside the camera - this is where the film or in our case, the sensor is placed - there is a very small amount of leeway where there is a degree of acceptable focus - referred to as 'depth of focus' (not to be confused with depth of field) but effectively, anywhere in front of or behind the focal plane is out of focus...
 
Can someone tell me the prices various places charge for this? (I can see the price of £35 has been mentioned so far...)
 
Spend £5 on some swabs and Eclipse fluid and learn to do it yourself - it's scary the first time (isn't everything, fnrr fnrr), but you save loads of money and develop a rapport with your camera that is nothing short of heavenly...
 
Thanks for the explaination Arkady..... makes sense to me. Any suggestions on what type of swabs to buy?

Not sure i want to develop a heavenly rapport with an inanimate object... although there was that dvd once.............

I need a rocket blower first too.
 
Yep Eclipse fluid and swabs are the most common, (and probably the best value IMO) but if you google sensor-swabs there are lots and lots available - some being very very pricey - you want something that is totally lint-free and remember they're a one-shot use item...
Get the ones sized for the sensor you have otherwise you have to make multiple passes and that can leave residue (don't I know it - all mine are bloomin' DX-sized swabs...lol)...
 
Been Googling.. not much for a fiver? all around 20 or so quid, Any pointers on where to buy or does the Naafi subsidise Eclipse fluid?
 
Eclipse fluid is 100% pure methanol. (instant 100% evaporation)

Eclipse two (E2) is a mix of ethanol, methanol and isopropyl alcohol. ..and its the gentler of the two. (much slower evaporation, some water also possible depending on the quality of the original chemicals)

Other manufactures fluids are generally a similar mix to the gentler E2 also

The jury is still out as to which fluids are suitable for which sensors.

If in any doubt use E2. or any gentle mix. (as long as you know whats in it)

I personally use 100% pure methanol, which according to my understanding of my Nikon d70s has the same coatings as your D50. However, as a get out clause, you must make your own choice and not go by what I suggest…some places suggest you use E2 on a D50, others don’t.

I’ve cleaned my sensor surface glass maybe 50 times now ...is still as perfect as ever, and to add to that, there are no mass horror stories on the net about people damaging sensors covers with either fluid type....yet. (Its been a few years now and still nothing major)

I mention evaporation because this does mean the chemical doesn’t stay in contact with the surface for long. This is useful because one of the arguments concerning degradation of the sensors coatings circles around the reactivity of the surface (Indium Tin Oxide) with the alcohol cleaner, neither are reactive …but what if the bonding agents holding the lot together are?

So one of the questions unanswered is …is a quick smear with the more chemically aggresive methanol, (instant 100% evaporation) better than a lengthy dip in the slower evaporating fluids because it gives way less time for any reactions to occur. (If their was a possibility of reaction, which is unknown and because of the chemistry is suggested not to happen anyway)

I’ve chosen mine, but as I say the jury is still out…. :shrug:

HTMSS
 
Another (y) for Calumet, Manchester here. First class service. Used to clean my own until I made a real mess of it and couldn't salvage it.
 
This thread has prompted me to register and reply after lurking for a while.

I had a bit of a pollen issue recently and ended up smearing the sensor after an abortive attempt to shift it myself.

Fortunately I've recently found a place in Newcastle that does sensor cleaning for £10. I've used them a couple of times with very good results.

APM Camera Repairs, 6 Old Eldon Square for anyone in this neck of the woods.

(I'm not affiliated to them in any way but feel they deserve a mention, hope I'm not breaching any forum etiquette).
 
ChrisJ_SLH said:
This thread has prompted me to register and reply after lurking for a while.

I had a bit of a pollen issue recently and ended up smearing the sensor after an abortive attempt to shift it myself.

Fortunately I've recently found a place in Newcastle that does sensor cleaning for £10. I've used them a couple of times with very good results.

APM Camera Repairs, 6 Old Eldon Square for anyone in this neck of the woods.

(I'm not affiliated to them in any way but feel they deserve a mention, hope I'm not breaching any forum etiquette).
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Cheers for that useful first post (y) for me anyway:) If I make a backside of mine I know where to go to now:)
 
I have a lens pen for, well, lenses and another version for the sensor. I don't know if they use different cleaning media, or if it's just the shape of the tip that's different. They both work well.
 
ian-f said:
Been Googling.. not much for a fiver? all around 20 or so quid, Any pointers on where to buy or does the Naafi subsidise Eclipse fluid?
Click to expand...


hahaha...I wish...
I bought my last batch from Warehouse Excess (or maybe Amazon - it's was last year in Iraq) and yes, I spent about £100 on cloths, sensor-swabs and fluid enough to last 6 months...On the basis that I could claim it back as a Miscellaneous Expense...never happened - was refused by the chief clerk...
I've been trying to go through the supply chain here once again on this Tour - this time trying to get it authorised under the Operational Expense budget - been told it's 'possible' but not likely...
I've found that the Sylvyt polishing cloths we can get through the 'system' to 'bull' our ammo-boots (the ones with hob-nails that we only wear on formal parades - and which are private-purchase items as they're no longer issued either) make excellent external lens cloths, being like a synthetic chamois.

Beyond that, the most I can usually get is free canned-air and a 2" paintbrush...
 
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