Serious request for best practise.

EdinburghGary

EdinburghGary

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Gary
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Guys,

You may or may not know, that I am off to Skye for a weekend. Weather could be absolutely horrid, or it could be great. Likely going to be a good old scottish mix.

Now, I don't get up that way often, and in all seriousness, this will be only my 2nd photo trip up north.

Can you landscapers offer any hints, tips and tricks, on the following pleeeeeeeease?


1: Compisition
2: Aperture
3: Choice of lenses
4: Bracketing v Filters
5: Ensuring SHARP images

This is such an open ended question, and I appreciate you might only be able to offer a little help. Kudos to you if you can, it would be appreciated. I am still a novice, and I will not presume to know the best way to nail these shots. I am looking for advice over and above that which would be offered to someone who has just picked up a camera, so do not mind if it's more advanced.

Any help will be appreciated.
 
:lol: We all learn from out mistakes.

Also ND Filter. I presume short lens to get more of the scenery in. If I am not helping just tell me to shut up :lol:
 
Gary,

While I'm sure you don't really need much in the way of advise judging from your previous work, here's a few things that I always aim for, but I'm still very much learning!

Composition:
Concentrate on the foreground as much as the background. If you're trying to demonstrate scale, get a person in shot. Look for objects that give some intrest such as rocks or paths.

Aperture:
I normally aim for around f5.6 - f8, but obviously the sweet spot of lenses can vary a bit. A smaller aperture will ensure more of your shot is in focus, but will slow down your exposure so it's a case of trying to get a compromise between large depth of field and a quicker shutter speed.

Lenses:
I'm hoping to make full use of my 10-20 for landscape work when I get it, but the choice of lens is dictated by the scene to some extent. Sometimes a telephoto can deliver an equally stunning scene.

Bracketing/Filters:
ND Grad is going to be the first thing I buy after I've got my new glass. Bracketing will enable you to do some PP afterwards and choose the best of the bunch, but I prefer to try and get stuff right in-camera as much as possible.

Sharpness:
Pretty much dictated by your choice of lens and aperture. Tripod will help!

The key thing is to try and work with good light. I do a fair bit of walking, and early morning has often delivered the best light and photos for me. Especially this time of year, there are so many fantastic colours that will be washed out by an overcast day.
Don't forget to look for details too, rather than "the big picture". Often some lovely close-ups to be found nearby!
 
markp said:
Gary,

While I'm sure you don't really need much in the way of advise judging from your previous work, here's a few things that I always aim for, but I'm still very much learning!

Composition:
Concentrate on the foreground as much as the background. If you're trying to demonstrate scale, get a person in shot. Look for objects that give some intrest such as rocks or paths.

Aperture:
I normally aim for around f5.6 - f8, but obviously the sweet spot of lenses can vary a bit. A smaller aperture will ensure more of your shot is in focus, but will slow down your exposure so it's a case of trying to get a compromise between large depth of field and a quicker shutter speed.

Lenses:
I'm hoping to make full use of my 10-20 for landscape work when I get it, but the choice of lens is dictated by the scene to some extent. Sometimes a telephoto can deliver an equally stunning scene.

Bracketing/Filters:
ND Grad is going to be the first thing I buy after I've got my new glass. Bracketing will enable you to do some PP afterwards and choose the best of the bunch, but I prefer to try and get stuff right in-camera as much as possible.

Sharpness:
Pretty much dictated by your choice of lens and aperture. Tripod will help!

The key thing is to try and work with good light. I do a fair bit of walking, and early morning has often delivered the best light and photos for me. Especially this time of year, there are so many fantastic colours that will be washed out by an overcast day.
Don't forget to look for details too, rather than "the big picture". Often some lovely close-ups to be found nearby!
Click to expand...



Thanks mate, and a very very hepful reply - I will literally print this thread. I am keen to make the most of my time away.
 
EdinburghGary said:
1: Compisition
2: Aperture
3: Choice of lenses
4: Bracketing v Filters
5: Ensuring SHARP images
Click to expand...

1. Foreground interest, leading lines, bit of rule of thirds if there is anything. Make sure everything is bang on level...erm...
2. If foreground interest enough to get that and the landscape behind in focus :p I tend to start at F11 and work from there
3. If it were me I would have my 17-40 on the camera 99% of the time for that sort of stuff.
4. Play it by ear, Bracket anything with bright sky/shooting into sun imo, just to get that detail back. If using LR2 I wouldn't bother with ND grad..unless shooting high ISO where PP might produce noise.
5. Tripod, mirror lock up, high shutter speeds :p With your kit you should be shot if any image isn't sharp :p Crank that ISO up if you need it, Noise is preferable over softness for me.
 
Jimmy_Lemon said:
1. Foreground interest, leading lines, bit of rule of thirds if there is anything. Make sure everything is bang on level...erm...
2. If foreground interest enough to get that and the landscape behind in focus :p I tend to start at F11 and work from there
3. If it were me I would have my 17-40 on the camera 99% of the time for that sort of stuff.
4. Play it by ear, Bracket anything with bright sky/shooting into sun imo, just to get that detail back. If using LR2 I wouldn't bother with ND grad..unless shooting high ISO where PP might produce noise.
5. Tripod, mirror lock up, high shutter speeds :p With your kit you should be shot if any image isn't sharp :p Crank that ISO up if you need it, Noise is preferable over softness for me.
Click to expand...

Mirror Lock up, I never ever use it. I will though, do you feel it makes that extra bit of difference?
 
I don't use it often tbh, but it deffo makes the difference for long exposures, guess anything to reduce vibration for any shot can only be a good thing, but I am just a lazy mofo :p
 
Jimmy_Lemon said:
1. Foreground interest, leading lines, bit of rule of thirds if there is anything. Make sure everything is bang on level...erm...
2. If foreground interest enough to get that and the landscape behind in focus :p I tend to start at F11 and work from there
3. If it were me I would have my 17-40 on the camera 99% of the time for that sort of stuff.
4. Play it by ear, Bracket anything with bright sky/shooting into sun imo, just to get that detail back. If using LR2 I wouldn't bother with ND grad..unless shooting high ISO where PP might produce noise.
5. Tripod, mirror lock up, high shutter speeds :p With your kit you should be shot if any image isn't sharp :p Crank that ISO up if you need it, Noise is preferable over softness for me.
Click to expand...

Looks pretty good to me, although I disagree with the point on ND Grads, I would use these very time above PP, but that is a personal preference.

Shutter release cable, although suspect you have these already, with your 10mins exposure shots.
A good cloth to clean those lenses....Some gloves and a hat!
 
chewyuk said:
Looks pretty good to me, although I disagree with the point on ND Grads, I would use these very time above PP, but that is a personal preference.

Shutter release cable, although suspect you have these already, with your 10mins exposure shots.
A good cloth to clean those lenses....Some gloves and a hat!
Click to expand...

Thanks mate. This thread could result in a VERY helpful checklist!
 
animal168 said:
on last nights long exposure experiment i found it does make a difference, suprisingly
Click to expand...

Some advice that sounds good. I cannot do mirror lock up on the D80 but will be good to try it on another camera to see any noticeable difference in sharpness.

You gunna give the new S5 some good use Gary?
 
Unless it's overcast, dull and grey and permanently raining - bad weather can be a positive plus on Skye, in my experience. I used to drive over to Skye a lot and the Highlands always look better in winter than in summer. The colours are gorgeous, especially if there's snow on the high hills. The Cuilins always attract attention, but my favourite part of the island is the north part, north of Portree. Rugged and wild. Portree itself is a nice enough place, especially around the harbour area.
 
aberal said:
Unless it's overcast, dull and grey and permanently raining - bad weather can be a positive plus on Skye, in my experience. I used to drive over to Skye a lot and the Highlands always look better in winter than in summer. The colours are gorgeous, especially if there's snow on the high hills. The Cuilins always attract attention, but my favourite part of the island is the north part, north of Portree. Rugged and wild. Portree itself is a nice enough place, especially around the harbour area.
Click to expand...

Cheers Aberal,

Any specific points north of Portree I should check out?

Thanks for any help,

Gary.
 
Good advice here.

A polariser would be useful if your lucky enough with the sun. As would something to keep camera/lens dry if you get the traditional weather - nice sky drama then.
 
My 2 pennies worth

  • Take a Tripod
  • Take a heavy weight to hold tripod down (it's windy in Skye !)
  • Take a little camera spirit level that slots into the hot shoe
  • A good wide angle lens 10-20mm..
  • ND Grads are a must
  • A shutter release
  • Agree with Markp in regards to Aperture although landscapes for me it's F11 (although this depends on foreground interest)
  • Get up early for sunrises to be in position from 8am, sleep, get up and get the sunsets around 4pm
  • lens Hoods
  • lens cloths
  • Fleece, gloves, hot water bottle ;)
 
Puz said:
My 2 pennies worth

  • Take a Tripod
  • Take a heavy weight to hold tripod down (it's windy in Skye !)
  • Take a little camera spirit level that slots into the hot shoe
  • A good wide angle lens 10-20mm..
  • ND Grads are a must
  • A shutter release
  • Agree with Markp in regards to Aperture although landscapes for me it's F11
  • Get up early for sunrises to be in position from 8am, sleep, get up and get the sunsets around 4pm
  • lens Hoods
  • lens cloths
  • Fleece, gloves, hot water bottle ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks,

The weight thing I have heard a few times. I will take a bag, and use whatever local resources I can fiund (smallish boulders etc). Don't fancy carrying the weight so to speak.

I have a virtual spirit level built into the camera and I now always use it for my shots.

ND Grads, damn - I didn't want to spend before I leave, but I might invest in some. I am still not convinced that bracketing is not as good an option...
 
Also shoot everything in RAW !

Yeh, as for the weight, just take a bag and some strong string to attach it to the bottom of the head of the tripod. Pick up a local rock, rabbit etc to aid holding the thing on the ground ;)
 
Puz said:
Also shoot everything in RAW !

Yeh, as for the weight, just take a bag and some strong string to attach it to the bottom of the head of the tripod. Pick up a local rock, rabbit etc to aid holding the thing on the ground ;)
Click to expand...

Very good advice all this, I love the raw format. I'm gonna produce a checklist once this thread has run its course :)
 
EdinburghGary said:
Cheers Aberal,

Any specific points north of Portree I should check out?

Thanks for any help,

Gary.
Click to expand...

There's a fabulous place above Staffin called the Quiraing which has strange jagged peaks and views across to the NW Highlands. Last time I was there the mist rolled off the hills like a table cloth. If you do head up that way try the Flodigarry Hotel for some food and a drink or two in their bar. Locals and tourists alike hang out there and if you're lucky there'll be a céilidh.

Have fun.
 
you can also look in to doing lots of maths with the hyperfocal focusing thing or focus about a 3rd into your seen to help maximise the DoF and sharpness :)
 
Gary,

I was in Skye in August, only had a few hours with the camera though!

If you head north from Portree there's a road that goes round the north of the Island, it takes you past some very scenic areas including the old man of hoy, quiraing, flodigarry, the graveyard where Flora MacDonald is buried and just some really nice views!

You can see some of my photos on my flickr site.

As for composition, I always try and find something in the foreground that makes the photo more interesting, I've found that although a view may be breathtaking at the time, a photograph of a distant landscape can be a bit bland. The usual laws about thirds, converging lines etc are also helpful. Lens wise, I only really used my 17-70, mostly at the wide end with a narrow aperture, trying to get as much of the scene as possible sharp. As already mentioned, the tripod is a must.

As for the weather, waterproofs and good boots are a minimum, if you're walking on the hills or quite far from the beaten track, some basic provisions and emergency equipment may be an idea, especially at this time of year.

The one plus will be that you don't need midgey repellent!!

Dave
 
devitt said:
Some advice that sounds good. I cannot do mirror lock up on the D80 but will be good to try it on another camera to see any noticeable difference in sharpness.
Click to expand...

Although it doesnt have actual mirror lock up, there is an option in the custom settings menu (Exp delay mode), This will delay the shutter for 0.4 of a second after the mirror has been raised.

Ive never actually used it but if your serious about sharpness, it cant be a bad thing!
 
animal168 said:
on last nights long exposure experiment i found it does make a difference, suprisingly
Click to expand...

Quote above in ref to mirror lockup.

I am confused as to why it would help on a long exposure that goes into minutes, rather than seconds. Surely mirror lockup is more useful on faster shutterspeeds when the camera may still be vibrating as a result of the mirror moving out the way?
 
dizzledazzle said:
Although it doesnt have actual mirror lock up, there is an option in the custom settings menu (Exp delay mode), This will delay the shutter for 0.4 of a second after the mirror has been raised.

Ive never actually used it but if your serious about sharpness, it cant be a bad thing!
Click to expand...

Thats great, thanks for letting me know and will check that out now:thumbs:
 
dizzledazzle said:
Although it doesnt have actual mirror lock up, there is an option in the custom settings menu (Exp delay mode), This will delay the shutter for 0.4 of a second after the mirror has been raised.

Ive never actually used it but if your serious about sharpness, it cant be a bad thing!
Click to expand...

This sounds like a fantastic option!

Off to check :D
 
markp said:
I normally aim for around f5.6 - f8
Click to expand...

Wow, is that enough to get foreground sharpness? I try to do my focusing hyperfocally, but never go below f/11 on a landscape as I thought I'd end up with OoF bits.
 
To be honest I could list a million 'rules' you should follow but I'd also be able to show a million great images that break them (my mother told me a million times not to exaggerate!). It's good to know and understand some of the basic rules of composition etc. as this gives you basic grounding to practice and see what works and what doesn't.

In short, do what you always do. Practice and experiment!

From what I've seen of your shots up to now, you seem to have a pretty good understanding of the questions you've asked, which makes this thread kind of pointless! ;)

Oh and enjoy!
 
Hi Gary

If planning guarantee success - you've got it nailed, no worries. :) I can't add anything to the kit and technique debate - but I'd put a torch in the kit bag for sunrise/sunsets. It's frustrating trying to find things in a hurry in the semi-darkness.

Have a great time. Look forward to seeing the results. :)

Jean
 
Might be stating the obvious but here goes... Has you tripod got a bag hook on the bottom of the centre pole.? if so use it.

I have a carbon fibre Velbon Sherpa Pro and when ever I am out taking landscapes or long exposure shots I find the best way to stabilise the pod is to hang my Lowpro slingshot on the hook - instant extra stability.! :thumbs:
 
Toothie said:
you can also look in to doing lots of maths with the hyperfocal focusing thing or focus about a 3rd into your seen to help maximise the DoF and sharpness :)
Click to expand...
I'm gonna dissent from this, no disrespect Toothie.

Firstly the olf "focus a 3rd into the scene" guideline is rubbish, as two minutes spent with DOFMaster will easily demonstrate.

Secondly, the hyperfocal focussing thing is a technique designed to ensure that distant objects (eg the Cuilins) are right on the edge of the zone of acceptable sharpness. That sounds inherently dodgy to me. Too much scope for getting it slightly wrong. It might work for a full-time landscape photographer who knows his equipment inside-out and who knows precisely how sharp things will appear at different enlargement sizes. But for the rest of us I would hesitate to call it "best practice".
 
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