setups and shots with home studio setup Thread

Thanks to this thread i have had a busy weekend and it has cost me some money,I got the cheapest strobe set of ebay that i could fined and i must say they or not bad at all, a back ground stand from same place which is cr--, some old paper from friend which has a few mark on one side, so this is wot ive ended up with, all i need now is a perspex sheet and some willing voluntreers.

link to lights http://www.stableimaging.co.uk/index.php but if you get any go though ebay as they or only £139, I do not know him i just think they or very good for the price.


IMG_0005 by Paul Smith 6657, on Flickr


IMG_0025nm-2 by Paul Smith 6657, on Flickr


IMG_0025m-2 by Paul Smith 6657, on Flickr

Things you have to do to get a picture
 
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I've really enjoyed reading this thread and I am looking to get some studio lights for child photography. I was just wondering whether people that are on here charge for the pictures they take of friends kids etc? And if so, what do people consider to be a reasonable amount to charge? I've recently done some images for a friend who agreed to pay me but I made the mistake of not agreeing a price before hand. I also feel that because I haven't got the right kit yet (I was just using a bed sheet and a speedlight and then a lot of PP) I can't charge too much for it.

This is one of the pictures I have done for him which he seemed really pleased with http://www.flickr.com/photos/matto85/6388377567/

Sorry I've waffled on

Thanks
Matt
 
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Anyone using this thread to learn the white background shots..


If you use photoshop When you click on the levels then press the ALT key hold it down and click on the small triangle on the histogram left and right hand side you will see what is blown and what is not..

(y)
 
Not sure the link worked for the picture so I will try again
6388377567
 
Matt there is nothing wrong with using a bedsheet as a b/g

As the image below proves...;)

Kids_web.jpg



As for pricing :LOL: Thats a whole different kettle of fish..... What someone charges in Banrnsley will be different to someone living in london also depends on overheads..!!!!!!!


MD(y)
 
Just to jump into this thread, not sure if it's been mentioned but Lightroom has an awesome tool for brushing white backgrounds out if needed - The local adjustment brush with the "Auto Mask" feature turned on will only edit areas of similar contrast, so you can go round people without too much difficulty. Used to use it quite a bit, but doing more location work now - are we allowed to post stuff like that here?
 
Just to jump into this thread, not sure if it's been mentioned but Lightroom has an awesome tool for brushing white backgrounds out if needed - The local adjustment brush with the "Auto Mask" feature turned on will only edit areas of similar contrast, so you can go round people without too much difficulty. Used to use it quite a bit, but doing more location work now - are we allowed to post stuff like that here?

(y)


Use that also....(y)


Great tool(y)


MD(y)
 
Just to jump into this thread, not sure if it's been mentioned but Lightroom has an awesome tool for brushing white backgrounds out if needed - The local adjustment brush with the "Auto Mask" feature turned on will only edit areas of similar contrast, so you can go round people without too much difficulty. Used to use it quite a bit, but doing more location work now - are we allowed to post stuff like that here?

When editing the floor in Lr, make sure the Auto Mask is on and it wont affect the subject so long as the centre is kept to the grey area. You can whiz over the floor in 10 seconds with a large soft brush.


Yip I mentioned it a few posts ago :)(y)
 
Anyone using this thread to learn the white background shots..


If you use photoshop When you click on the levels then press the ALT key hold it down and click on the small triangle on the histogram left and right hand side you will see what is blown and what is not..

(y)

Never knew this, thanks!
 
Interesting I don't have Lightroom, I use photoshop cs5, any tips

you can download a free 30 day trail from Adobe and try it, i think lightroom is a lot easier to use than photoshop, i use it for most of the time and the with the adjustment brush is so easy to get a pure white background
 
Interesting I don't have Lightroom, I use photoshop cs5, any tips

Photoshop doesn't have an automask feature (probably one for CS6)! You can use the dodge tool set to Highlight and use that but care still needs to be taken.
There's also a few ways involving the use of masks but they are a loittle more complex although can be quick once used to it - I only use Lr for this.
 
Anyone using this thread to learn the white background shots..


If you use photoshop When you click on the levels then press the ALT key hold it down and click on the small triangle on the histogram left and right hand side you will see what is blown and what is not..

(y)

Also works in Lightroom too when using the exposure and shadow/black sliders.
 
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Hello.
I have been following this thread since the OP with great interest and after viewing the lovely shots taken by many of you have decided to part with some hard earned cash and get myself a little setup. Im still 100% beginner but feel like it will give me something to focus on and learn about instead of taking shots of everything I see!

So I went on a little virtual shopping trip and came up with the list below, To those in the know does this seem reasonable? anything I could make cheaper?

My list:
Lencarta Background stand and white 3x3 - about £120
Lencarta 200w, stand and 60cm softbox - about £170
Basic Yong flash + triggers, umbrella and stand - about £70?

so just over £300 all in (yikes), I already have a 430Ex flash too. worth it? or go cheaper???

thanks for the good read!
 
iamtheoneneo said:
Hello.
I have been following this thread since the OP with great interest and after viewing the lovely shots taken by many of you have decided to part with some hard earned cash and get myself a little setup. Im still 100% beginner but feel like it will give me something to focus on and learn about instead of taking shots of everything I see!

So I went on a little virtual shopping trip and came up with the list below, To those in the know does this seem reasonable? anything I could make cheaper?

My list:
Lencarta Background stand and white 3x3 - about £120
Lencarta 200w, stand and 60cm softbox - about £170
Basic Yong flash + triggers, umbrella and stand - about £70?

so just over £300 all in (yikes), I already have a 430Ex flash too. worth it? or go cheaper???

thanks for the good read!

Glad you find the thread useful, since starting this thread I've too upgraded my kit, I've gone from using speedlites to using Lencarta smartflash's, but yet to try them out properly, I've got my friend and there little one coming over on monday so I see how it goes....

Look fwd to seeing your efforts don't for get to post them including your setup :)
 
Glad you find the thread useful, since starting this thread I've too upgraded my kit, I've gone from using speedlites to using Lencarta smartflash's, but yet to try them out properly, I've got my friend and there little one coming over on monday so I see how it goes....

Look fwd to seeing your efforts don't for get to post them including your setup :)

Thx for the feedback, Did you replace all your lights with Lencarta's?
I realised from reading your post and watching youtube videos that just getting one would not really work? as I would be lighting the background unevenly and i doubt I could make it overexposed? (correct me if im wrong) so on that basis I guess I need to get a pair of lights for an even spread.

If thats correct it might work out better as I can just use the 430EX as key lighting and grab 2 lencartas? Just will cost more :LOL:
 
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Hi all! I'm new to this forum and have been following this thread with great interest. Some really great home studios, shots and tips on here! Thanks guys for sharing!

Just wanted to throw mine into the bag and hopefully get some tips on how to improve them. For lighting the background I have the 580EX II on the right on M and 1/2 power. The 420 EX on the left is fully auto. My key light is just a cheap continuous one off ebay, alongside the flash on the camera which is powered at a ratio of 4:1 to the 580EX.

My main issue is that the lighting on the background is uneven and I would really like to get this more even but don't want to buy anything else for the moment! i don't have a light meter :( and all the equipment i have is shown in the shot. Any tips would be great! thanks all. Its my first time uploading images so pls bear with me if it doesn't work!

1) SOOC
6483208767_0cb244ea56_z.jpg
[/url]
3344 original by Shahinara Craveiro, on Flickr[/IMG]

2) touched up
6483227069_be3fab9de9_z.jpg
[/url]
3344 - Version 2 by Shahinara Craveiro, on Flickr[/IMG]

3) set up
6483204029_a7b08ba559_z.jpg
[/url]
home studio set up by Shahinara Craveiro, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
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Perspex warning!!! Hi, purchased a 4 ft by 4 ft sheet of perpex, 2 mm thick after reading and seeing the nice results on this thread. I have a Lastolite hilite which I port around to people's houses. Worked fine this morning on hardwood flooring, this afternoon on carpet (not very thick carpet), it was stepped on by on the ladies and SNAP! it shattered. Then was one of the fellas did the same, it now looks like I need to call out Autoglass! Got a sorry-looking sheet of perpex in my house now. :crying: Might have to go thicker than 2mm next time, but need it to be portable and have a bit of bend in it for the boot of my car. Really like the effect, but need to put the warning out there to you beautiful people. (y)
 
Hi all! I'm new to this forum and have been following this thread with great interest. Some really great home studios, shots and tips on here! Thanks guys for sharing!

Just wanted to throw mine into the bag and hopefully get some tips on how to improve them. For lighting the background I have the 580EX II on the right on M and 1/2 power. The 420 EX on the left is fully auto. My key light is just a cheap continuous one off ebay, alongside the flash on the camera which is powered at a ratio of 4:1 to the 580EX.

My main issue is that the lighting on the background is uneven and I would really like to get this more even but don't want to buy anything else for the moment! i don't have a light meter :( and all the equipment i have is shown in the shot. Any tips would be great! thanks all. Its my first time uploading images so pls bear with me if it doesn't work!

[/IMG]

When shooting kids you need to get down to their level. The pillows don't do anything for me.
 
When shooting kids you need to get down to their level. The pillows don't do anything for me.

Thanks for your tip and the pillows were there to get the shots without the boy hitting his head on the floor too many times - he's still a bit unstable! :)
 
Hi all,

Been doing a lot of practice with mine and finally getting some good results.

Had a friend over with his daughters and managed to get these.

6494376901_d2df2001b5_b.jpg


6494376603_a10a285643_b.jpg


6494377599_a3926483b7_b.jpg


6494377943_0e8b66f9a2_b.jpg


Also today have bought a hilite so that should arrive around xmas time, thought I would treat myself.

Dan
 
Thanks for your tip and the pillows were there to get the shots without the boy hitting his head on the floor too many times - he's still a bit unstable! :)

When you are down low, use a longish lens so that you see less of the background. That way Mum or Dad can sit very close (to save the child) but without being in the shot. Even if they are in, with a white or black background they are easily taken out in Photoshop or lightroom
 
Hi all,

Been doing a lot of practice with mine and finally getting some good results.

Had a friend over with his daughters and managed to get these.

6494376901_d2df2001b5_b.jpg


6494376603_a10a285643_b.jpg


6494377599_a3926483b7_b.jpg


6494377943_0e8b66f9a2_b.jpg


Also today have bought a hilite so that should arrive around xmas time, thought I would treat myself.

Dan

I was trying to work out what's wrong with these. i have a feeling there was too much light coming from the background reflecting back at the subject and that left the area showing as the perspex refection. It's too strong for me.

Exposure on the subject looks a wee but under exposed but there's something not quite right - Was ait a hard light (small softbox far away from the subject)? Also they look a little muted on my display (calibrated).

No2 is a nice one though
 
I was trying to work out what's wrong with these. i have a feeling there was too much light coming from the background reflecting back at the subject and that left the area showing as the perspex refection. It's too strong for me.

Exposure on the subject looks a wee but under exposed but there's something not quite right - Was ait a hard light (small softbox far away from the subject)? Also they look a little muted on my display (calibrated).

No2 is a nice one though

You feel the light bouncing from the background is too strong therefore increasing the perspex reflection? It is actually as much stronger result but I have layered it onto a white background in photoshop and erased through it.

It is a fairly small softbox and I got it as close as I could as they obviously moved quite a bit and I couldnt get in too close incase they moved out of frame.

When you say muted, do you mean the colours, exposure or both? They dont look too bad on my monitor but its not calibrated so that might be the problem.

Pretty much the first time I have used the gear in anger so I'm pretty happy as a first go, steep learning curve involved.

Dan
 
If the shadow was stronger that means an awful lot of light is reflecting back off the background causing the dark shadow. I don't like the reflection - it should be more subtle.

It could be that the background is causing some flaring into the lens too. If you measure the light you should only need a max of +1 exposure on the background to get it white. In small spaces any more is probably just too much.

The images lack some punch - skin tones not quite right. Not sure exactly what is causing it but it could be the small softbox.
 
Cheers for feedback. The room I am using has light coloured walls and ceiling. This could be bouncing too much light around the room and altering exposure too much.

Also I am using a 60cm x 60cm softbox. That should surely be big enough for this sort of thing?

Maybe not.

Here is one straight out of camera, I could have got closer but wanted their uppers legs in shot.

"Bad example of settings removed" More accurate one lower down.
 
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60x60 is pretty small and as you move the light further away it becomes smaller still relative to the subject. So lighting two girls and a bear from a few feet away will not give very soft light. Might be better with a bigger brolly to cover a greater area at a closer distance. To get soft light it needs to be closer. I use a 135cm octa for this type of stuff.

print_128.jpg


print_169.jpg


print_226.jpg


print_004.jpg
 
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Nice shots Jim, I'm always worried about shoot through umbrellas throwing too much light into and around the room, I obviously have more control with the softbox.

I've had a fair amount of problem with lighting the backdrop with the amount of flair and lack of contrast in the photos, theyve needed a fair amount of PP to correct. Hoping the hilite I have coming with make easier work out of it and let me concentrate on everything else.

Dan
 
Cheers for feedback. The room I am using has light coloured walls and ceiling. This could be bouncing too much light around the room and altering exposure too much.

Also I am using a 60cm x 60cm softbox. That should surely be big enough for this sort of thing?

Maybe not.

Here is one straight out of camera, I could have got closer but wanted their uppers legs in shot.

6494786983_93186c0eb1_z.jpg


There's no contrast to that image - did the flash actually fire? Are you just using one light?

What settings did you have?

There's a lot wrong here but nothing that can't be fixed with practice and better understanding.
 
Thats prob a bad example I put up, one where I was tinkering with settings.

This is more realistic as to what I was getting. Still a big lack of contrast I agree.

6494950277_96039e6dd7_z.jpg


Two lights on the background, one as main light through 60x60cm softbox as mentioned. 32" reflector on opposite side.

Background lights at 1/2 power maybe.... and keylight at 1/4 (off top of my head, maybe wrong)

Usually shot at f10ish, 1/1200 maximum sync with RF602 triggers and ISO100.
 
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Thats prob a bad example I put up, one where I was tinkering with settings.

This is more realistic as to what I was getting. Still a big lack of contrast I agree.

6494950277_96039e6dd7_z.jpg


Two lights on the background, one as main light through 60x60cm softbox as mentioned. 32" reflector on opposite side.

Background lights at 1/2 power maybe.... and keylight at 1/4 (off top of my head, maybe wrong)

Usually shot at f10ish, 1/1200 maximum sync with RF602 triggers and ISO100.

Honestly it actually looks like the front (main) light isn't firing at all? The light is all coming from the background and washing over the subjects which is why there is no contrast

Try taking a shot without the background lights on. That will get your exposure on the subject. Lets say that is f8.

Then set your background lights to a stop more than your main light (if you have a meter) If not take a shot and adjust until you JUST get some blinkies showing. You may need to add a touch more to remove the creases.

Regards the background lights they are also too high. If your subject is on the floor bring all your lights down.

Also I guess you mean 1/200th sync speed? You should reduce that to 1/125th because most triggers don't sync faster than that - some do but 1/125th is a safe place to be. So long as ytou are under the sync speed of both, the shutter speed doesn't matter as the flash duration is actually much faster than your SS.

Your're also shooting across the background instread of straight onto the subjects? That's losing you that whole right corner.....
 
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I have wanted to try some portrait work for a while and finally saved a few pennies together and thought I would post my set up to the thread.
I went for 2 Elinchrom D-lites 2 a stand and backdrop of white paper from Calumet. The roll is only approx 1.5m so I will have to look for something wider. About 6ft would be perfect. I also bought some 80cm reflectors and have a Canon 580 EX II flash. Hopefully this will be enough to get some good results. Models are scare in a camera shy family so hopefully I will be able to get some photos taken soon and post them for cc. Apologies for the initial photo all taken in a bit of a rush.

John.

2011-12-02 18.10.57 by jjlambe1,
 
Honestly it actually looks like the front (main) light isn't firing at all? The light is all coming from the background and washing over the subjects which is why there is no contrast

Try taking a shot without the background lights on. That will get your exposure on the subject. Lets say that is f8.

Then set your background lights to a stop more than your main light (if you have a meter) If not take a shot and adjust until you JUST get some blinkies showing. You may need to add a touch more to remove the creases.

Regards the background lights they are also too high. If your subject is on the floor bring all your lights down.

Also I guess you mean 1/200th sync speed? You should reduce that to 1/125th because most triggers don't sync faster than that - some do but 1/125th is a safe place to be. So long as ytou are under the sync speed of both, the shutter speed doesn't matter as the flash duration is actually much faster than your SS.

Your're also shooting across the background instread of straight onto the subjects? That's losing you that whole right corner.....

Cheers for your continued help.

Yep the key light has defo fired but I can see what your saying, the background lights are overpowering the key light and losing all contrast in the image.

The background lights are at the lowest the lighstand would allow, and pointed downwards using ballheads.

Yep I was using 1/200, its not until 1/250 that you start to see banding. I suppose 1/125 would be more sensible as there is no ambient light to kill anyway.

These are all things I know about but when it somes to taking the shots with a touch of pressure I tried to make sure the background was seamless bright white but I have obviously pushed it too far, need to break it down again and start from scratch with my thinking.

Dan
 
Grr trying to reply to MDs heat images but iPad not playing cricket!
 
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..MD.. said:
I thought you guys might like this putting in here rarther than a fresh thread..;)

I only took these to show you all you dont need a massive studio or lots of big studio lights..

This was taken using two lights Two bedsheets. and my old perspex..:LOL:

OH and it was taken in my hallway in the house....:nuts:

Regards MD

Great images. Would like to ask what setting you had lights and camera at? My studio has great length but only 9'9" wide. I've struggled between too much light bouncing around or not enough light! :(
 
Cheers for your continued help.

Yep the key light has defo fired but I can see what your saying, the background lights are overpowering the key light and losing all contrast in the image.

The background lights are at the lowest the lighstand would allow, and pointed downwards using ballheads.

Yep I was using 1/200, its not until 1/250 that you start to see banding. I suppose 1/125 would be more sensible as there is no ambient light to kill anyway.

These are all things I know about but when it somes to taking the shots with a touch of pressure I tried to make sure the background was seamless bright white but I have obviously pushed it too far, need to break it down again and start from scratch with my thinking.

Dan

Bring your flashes out to the front and shoot towards the background. They will spread more of the light. Put a black flag over them to they don't spill onto the subjects. Less light should reflect back.

Turn your main light up as you're obviously not using enough power. Get the exposure on the subject first. Lets say f8. Now you should set the background so it's exposing correctly at about f11 or thereabouts (so you ge3t rid of the creases). Once done, take the shot at f8 and see how it looks.
 
EOS_JD said:
Bring your flashes out to the front and shoot towards the background. They will spread more of the light. Put a black flag over them to they don't spill onto the subjects. Less light should reflect back.

Turn your main light up as you're obviously not using enough power. Get the exposure on the subject first. Lets say f8. Now you should set the background so it's exposing correctly at about f11 or thereabouts (so you ge3t rid of the creases). Once done, take the shot at f8 and see how it looks.

Aye will give it a go again when I get chance.

The background lights are already maybe 3' away from the background and have cardboard flags to stop light spill.

I'm already using half power on the key light at times.

Think the room I'm using isn't helping, sloping roof of loft conversion bounces light everywhere.

Hoping the hilite will help with this, less spill and more controllable in varying conditions.

Dan
 
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Just received my lastolite 6 x 7 and although I've only taken half a dozen shots of the Mrs very quickly I can see the advantages straight away. Only one speedlight is needed to get it all white which frees up another light for the front.

Really pleased and looking forward to using it in anger.
 
Great images. Would like to ask what setting you had lights and camera at? My studio has great length but only 9'9" wide. I've struggled between too much light bouncing around or not enough light! :(



Most of my settings are

B/g lights on full as they are only 180's

Camera set to F8 200thsec iso125

My garage is only 8' wide 7' in hight and 19' in length..!


Regards MD(y)
 
Just received my lastolite 6 x 7 and although I've only taken half a dozen shots of the Mrs very quickly I can see the advantages straight away. Only one speedlight is needed to get it all white which frees up another light for the front.

Really pleased and looking forward to using it in anger.

One strobe really isn't enough to light the 6x7. To get it white with one strobe you need to throw a lot of light into it which is likely to be too much. Better to light the background evenly with 2 strobes (I used two Elinchrom strobes (400BX) to light the 6x7 highlight in the above images.

It's easy making the background white.What makes it complicated is when you introduce your subject into the equation and you get spill and flare coming back.
 
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