Sharpness Canon 10-22mm

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niv2

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David
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Can someone tell me if the attached photo is typical for a Canon 10-22mm at 10mm? I feel that it is not as sharp as it could be but then I am used to longer focal lengths and have had no experience of a wide-angle up til now.

The camera was tripod mounted F22 and about 1/15

I know that there is movement in the trees due to wind but sharpness of static objects does not appear to be great.

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You do know that at F22 image quality is degraded as a result of diffraction?

Having said that I looked at the original image you just posted and it doesn't look right. Where were you focussing and were you using a cable release?
 
There's no way you should be shooting at f/22.

On a crop, you shouldnt really go over f/11 or f/16 or you'll cause diffraction and softness on whatever lens you are using. You dont need to go over f/11 anyway as the 10-22 has great corner sharpness.

The 10-22 is an extremely sharp lens, its hard to tell from the size of the photo whether thats sharp enough.

Edit - looking at the large file it does look as if you have incurred diffraction from shooting at f/22. As I say, you dont need to go higher than f/11 - f/16 on a crop, and you'll rarely need to go over f/8 with the Canon 10-22. Note though, you need foreground interest with this lens as well otherwise things will start to look far too distant and you'll end up with a frame full of ground! To test it properly you should have a large object in the foreground. Also, dont test a lens at slow shutter speeds, as the results will never be reliable as camera shake even on a tripod will be an issue.

Shoot something close with an interesting background at f/8 with a shutter speed of at least 1/250 on a tripod.

And for your future reference, check out this link for shooting with the Canon 10-22, its good stuff;

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-to-use-ultra-wide-lenses.htm
 
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odd jim said:
There's no way you should be shooting at f/22.

On a crop, you shouldnt really go over f/11 or f/16 or you'll cause diffraction and softness. You dont need to go over f/11 anyway as the 10-22 has great corner sharpness.

The 10-22 is an extremely sharp lens, its hard to tell from the size of the photo whether thats sharp enough.
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You an click on it and go to original size on Flickr. To me it looks too soft even if it is shot at F22.

Looks to me like user error - not focussing right and camera shake somehow.
 
travellingcello said:
You an click on it and go to original size on Flickr. To me it looks too soft even if it is shot at F22.

Looks to me like user error - not focussing right and camera shake somehow.
Click to expand...

Looked at the big file after I posted!

I'm in agreement, improper use of f/22 and no real focal point, and possible camera movement from shooting at a slow shutter speed induced by closing down so tight.
 
I have just acquired this lens and have never used a tripod before so I freely admit I do not know what I am doing yet with this lens. I was using all the right equipment inc a remote shutter release.

Following is hand held at F13 1/125 approx. (still no foreground interest!!)

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niv2 said:
I have just acquired this lens and have never used a tripod before so I freely admit I do not know what I am doing yet with this lens. I was using all the right equipment inc a remote shutter release.

Following is hand held at F13 1/125 approx. (still no foreground interest!!)

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Ok, I can't see it but you don't need to use such high aperture values! Shoot at f/5.6 to f/8!
 
odd jim said:
Ok, I can't see it but you don't need to use such high aperture values! Shoot at f/5.6 to f/8!
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ok..ok!! I just thought that small aperture lead to greater depth of field and that is what is needed in landscape photography?
 
niv2 said:
ok..ok!! I just thought that small aperture lead to greater depth of field and that is what is needed in landscape photography?
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Yes but on a crop sensor with this lens, as I said, the whole frame is sharp by f/8 so any higher you are slowing the shutter speed down for no real reason.

I suspect the lens is fine! Have a good read of the link I posted and try and emulate some of it. That's really how UWAs should be used and you DO need foreground interest! Don't use it as a "get it all in" lens, no matter how tempting it is!
 
You hardly ever need to go above f5.6 with this lens. Here is one at f/5.6...

4584034842_d77442e923_o.jpg
 
Both of these were shot at f/5.6;

Ignore the underexposed foreground to the left, that was down to me!

IMG_6339 by Odd Jim, on Flickr


IMG_6129 by Odd Jim, on Flickr

Note how the fore, mid and background on the first one are all nice and sharp. This lens is sharp from the get go and really doesnt need stopping down.
 
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I can't see any ca on that image, but then I am on my phone...

I have to say generally speaking ca is well controlled on the canon 10-22.
 
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Slaphead said:
Nature of the beast with UWAs I'm afraid, but easily dealt with in PP. I see similar with the Nikon equivalent.
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Yeh I know, though I hear that the 10-22 has it better controlled than the Tokina I used to have.
 
Mostly just wanted to add to what has already been said...

f. extreme isn't really needed. All you really need is an aperture that'll get you the DoF that you want and as has been said in many instances f8 will be enough at wide focal lengths although a lot depends upon what you focus on as if you focus on something very close to the camera, within a couple of feet or so, even f8-f11 might not be enough.

If you want front to back DoF there are a number of ways of getting it. You could study hyperfocal tables or you could set your lens to focas at infinity and set an appropriate aperture of f8-11. Whatever technique you use it's worth keeping in mind that there is no point setting your gear up to give you DoF beyond the scene, unless you are trying for another effect such as a slow shutter speed there's probably no need for extreme aperture settings.

Talking about slow shutter speeds... it's worth keeping in mind that when using slow shutter speeds leaves and branches etc may move in the breeze and therefore lack detail in the final image.
 
Takes time getting use to this lens, well it did me, I find f8 to be more than enough on my 10-20mm f3.5, but old habits die hard.
 
Diffraction is the problem at f/22

Using hyperfocal distance focusing at 10mm, DoF extends from infinity to 1ft, at f/8. You just don't need very high f/numbers with that lens. Check it with this on-line calculator http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

As an aside, using a tripod is not always a guarantee of perfect steadyness. Mirror slap can cause problems and the most critical speeds are in the 1/30sec to 1/4sec range. Mirror lock up helps.
 
Thanks for responses.....used it as recommended in post, f5 and 1/160 with foreground interest, and got some shots I am happy with.....wont post them as they are not very interesting!
 
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